Max IV modification/upgrade suggestions?

[Toynut]

Hi everyone, 1st post on this forum.

I recently acquired a 2000 Max IV in excellent, little used condition (to be honest...on a whim).
I have recently baselined the vehicle to initial factory specs: changed all filters and fluids, new plugs, installed an upgraded battery, washed the inside of the tub, greased the fittings, lubed the cables, adjusted the chains, and checked axle bearings for freeplay after lifting the vehicle off the ground. The Max came with the heated cable option, a 2500lb. Warn winch, and 22 inch tires (very good condition). Since this is my first 6X6 ATV, I would like to get some advise from some of the more experienced tuners on the forum.
I am considering some upgrades and improvements to build some additional reliability, safety, and overall usefulness of this vehicle.

The factory axles and bearings look to be in good shape with nominal free play. I noticed that the 2010 Max units have heavy duty bearing blocks (and I am assuming beefier axles than on my particular vehicle with it's stamped steel bearing plates. Should I consider an upgrade to a beefier kit now (along with solid heavier axles) or should I wait till they show signs of wear and play? Do extended axles add additional stability to the vehicle (as well as clearance for tracks) at the cost of handling/turning or other negatives (extra water thrown up when in a lake)?

I live on a 225 acre deepwater lake. I have boats but would like to take a Max out if it is a reasonable proposition on a mile long lake.
Has anyone used this type of vehicle in an open water environment where it may be exposed to other boat wakes or wind? Do the factory tires offer sufficient floatation to keep the vehicle from sinking should the hull be fully swamped (don't want the expense of a diver recovery team). Will bigger tires/rims offer that extra safety/flotation margin? I was even thinking of getting some spray marine foam into the hull but I am concerned that the chain lube and maintenance will be more onerous in the future should the grease and fluids need attention.

BTW, the forward and rear Zerk fittings are a bear to reach. Anyone install 45 degree Zerk fittings or use some kind of grease adapter to reach them easily?

In some of the member videos it appears that the Maxes are somewhat nose-heavy in the water. I noticed a video of a pontoon retrofit, but it looked like the rear of the pontoons weren't even in the water while running.

I am willing to add some marine upgrades (bilge pump, trolling motor, etc.) but I don't want to consider it if it will be a dicey proposition in choppy water.
I would also consider taking it out on the lake when it is frozen as long as I know that I can sink-proof it, should the ice give way.
Any other recommended upgrades I should consider?
Thank you in advance for any help.
Any advise is welcome!

[bierbower37]

Since your want a swimmer check out Jwheelz - a new bolt-on attachment for ATVs and UTVs They will add a lot of floataion and give you more balance in water.

[brushcutter]

Max IV!?
22" tires
NOSE heavy
Are You sure you have a Max IV?
This doesn't sound like a Max IV, they mostly have 26" tires and sit fairly level. Did the p/o have tracks on it, thus the 22's?

[Mike]

Hi Toynut, welcome to the site.

Your max is new enough that the factory axles and bearings will be beefy enough and work just fine. Extended axles do add some stability to the machine but it, of course, also makes it wider which isn't a good thing for trail riding. You will get more mud and water thrown up into the Max with the tires sticking out further too.

I have used my Max IV on an open lake and it didn't have a problem with the wake from boats. It is actually fun to rock the max with the wakes. Just go out and get used to the Max in calm water first. It will seem tipsy to you at first, but once you become comfortable with it, you will realize that it is really stable and you can actually lean the Max way over to one side by leaning your body and still be in control. As for extra flotation, that is not necessary at all. You will have plenty, especially with the Max IV. It floats great and is fairly level in the water since the engine and transmission are in the back. Argos are the ones that are nose heavy.

The only suggestions that I would make, if you are going to mainly use it in the water and around the lake would be to put some 26" terra grip tires on it. That tread pattern will give you the fastest speed in the water and propel you probably twice as fast as the 22" tires you currently have. You should also go ahead and install a bilge pump. Regardless of which tires you have, if you sink the max, it will float just below the surface of the water with a couple of tires sticking out. There are a few pictures in the gallery of sunk 6x6's.

For greasing the hard to reach flanges, you can purchase a 90 degree adapter from Lowes or other places that may make it easier.

[Toynut]

Thanks for the info, Mike.
Brushcutter, I was basing my observations from this forum video: YouTube - Max IV Pontoon test run.mpg

I also noticed that other forum members were installing their bilge pumps forward of the mid axle point for water pickup, and adding to the fact that I weigh in at about 240, I can guess on a weight-forward bias in the water( at least at slow speed or at rest).
BTW, the factory tires are 22 inchers, and will not accept the factory track kit. Due to the fact that my Max doesn't have axle extensions on it I can surmise that it never had tracks on it (it also looks like the rims were never off the axle flanges). The 26 inch rubber/12 inch rims being an optional upgrade according to this page :Accessories for the Max IV - Amphibious Six-Wheel Drive All-Terrain Vehicles: MaxATVs - Call 1-800-255-2511

Any ideas as how I should make the front/rear grease fittings easier to access?

[Mike]

You can purchase a 90 degree adapter for your grease gun at Lowes (or other places). I have used that on the hard to reach inner bearings on my Max II. Or, you can just remove the wheels. That is probably the fastest way. I have 12" wheels on my Max IV and they give you enough clearance to where you can actually fit your hand up in the wheel. That gives you the room necessary to get the grease gun on the zerk.

[Toynut]

It's the Zerk fittings in the inboard bearings (by the gears) that I am having some difficulty reaching, Mike.
I think 45 degree fittings might be easier to reach if the angle works out. 90 degree fittings look like they will have clearance issues on the inboards. I am using a cordless battery powered Lincoln grease gun with a fairly flexible hose assembly.

[brushcutter]

If you can add the 45 and use the 90 that Mike recommended then you should have an easier time reaching them. Keep in mind that it doesn't take a lot of grease to blow your bearing seals, not to much of a problem on the inners, but it will cause the outters to leak, so ... go easy on the grease! BTW, welcome to the forum.

[Toynut]

Thank you brushcutter.
I have a bunch of different configurations of Zerk fittings that I will try.
I also picked up a Lincoln 90 degree grease gun coupling (part # 5883) that I will try as well. The combination of the two should do the trick. Amazon.com: Lincoln Lubricating Equipment LNC-5883 Hydraulic Coupler Assembly 90 Degree Bend: Automotive

Please keep the ideas and suggestions coming!

[liflod]

I've also found that having a 6" length of steel pipe between the rubber hose and the 90 degree fitting really helps to guide the end of the grease gun to where you need it and also gives you something more solid to push the fitting onto the zerk. Mine uses common 1/8 NPT threads so the pipe is easy to find.