How do I get the frame out?

[team222badbrad]

I once put a bottle jack in the middle of the frame and tried pressing the axle out. Even that didn't work. Of course I didn't crank the pressure up too high though. Didn't want the welds to break.

The easiest way to cut the bearings off I found is with a dremel. Don't buy the cheap cutoff wheels. Get the ones with the "EZ LOCK" spindle.

I also found that you can pound the outer-race of the bearing and it will shatter. You may need to help it a bit though with the dremel first. Just be careful though because I literally chipped the paint off my car when one of the bits went flying through the air and let me tell you it went probably 30+ft to my car away!

If the driveline is good you may just be better off pressure washing the whole tub.

However, it may be worth your efforts to continue as well.

[team222badbrad]

You will need to cut the inner race of the bearing off to get the sprocket off.

It's not a big deal if you cut a little into the axle. Once you cut one side almost to the axle I get a big screwdriver and pound the split to open it up and then it slides off easy.

[Freedom6X6]

Thank you! It's filthy so I relay want to scrub it clean.

[Freedom6X6]

Sadly that's what I was afraid of. I will keep you guys posted on my progress! By the way....How much is this going to cost me to replace all the bearings?

[team222badbrad]

Sadly that's what I was afraid of. I will keep you guys posted on my progress! By the way....How much is this going to cost me to replace all the bearings?

Last quote from the factory which I got a month or so ago was $45 a pop x 12...

I just bought some from BearingsOn.com: Pillow Blocks, 2-Bolt, 3-Bolt, 4-Bolt Flanges, Radial Ball Bearings, Insert Bearings

OUTER HC207-20 1-1/4 Insert Bearing Large OD HC207-20 1-1/4" Insert Bearing Large OD

INNER 1 1/16" Insert Bearings UC206-17 1 1/16" Insert Bearings UC206-17

They are a perfect fit, but I don't know if they are sealed as well as stock bearings.
You also need to pull the pins off the outerrace with pliers.

What year is your machine?

[jpswift1]

You can even call the guys at Buffalo Bearing. They deal with many 6x6World members and they're really helpful with any questions you might have (716) 874-1720. I usually just give the outer race of my seized and stuck bearing a good hard couple of wacks with a ball peen hammer. If you have any issues, bring it up to my place, I'm just south of Buffalo and I'd be happy to help.

[team222badbrad]

You can even call the guys at Buffalo Bearing. They deal with many 6x6World members and they're really helpful with any questions you might have (716) 874-1720. I usually just give the outer race of my seized and stuck bearing a good hard couple of wacks with a ball peen hammer. If you have any issues, bring it up to my place, I'm just south of Buffalo and I'd be happy to help.

You will want a nice big jar of anti-seize too!

This is the stuff I picked up. It's "marine grade" so hopefully it works better than regular. I sure slapped enough of it on my bearings!

McMaster-Carr

Part # 10045k23

[coldone907]

I just did a similar task to a new-to-me Max IV. It was well worth the time and money to take the frame out, de-rustify it, weld a few spots, paint it and then replace all the bearings/collars etc. When I bought it, it appeared that it had never really been maintained- chains were shot and had been run out of alignment. This also caused damaging wear to a sprocket and tensioners. The bearings appeared good (and they ended up being good when I removed them), but I figured I'd replace them while I was refurbishing the whole unit. There was about 3 inches of grease, leaves, twigs, shotgun shells, electrical butt connectors, an old spark plug and various other items in the tub. I highly recommend (my local dealer suggested this) that you add "L" brackets to the rear part of the frame to strengthen the t20 mount. There are photos below that show the brackets and where I had to weld some cracks (the brackets should prevent future cracking).

12 bearings w/ collars, entire new set of chains, 1 rear sprocket, 1 new/used axle (to replace one that was bent when I bought it), 2 new solid (not pressed) tensioners, and 6 new zerk-fitted inner bearing carriers totaled about $1200. My time is priceless with new twins, but I managed to get it done in time for the Alaska caribou and moose seasons!!

I already mentioned this on another thread but "Mike" is a helluva help on this kinda stuff and the video is truly priceless. I'm going to try to add some photos here to show what I did.

A buddy and I are also building a new aluminum roll cage/enclosure to replace the tube steel one that came on it. I will try to post some photos of that as well in the future.

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[Freedom6X6]

Last quote from the factory which I got a month or so ago was $45 a pop x 12...

I just bought some from BearingsOn.com: Pillow Blocks, 2-Bolt, 3-Bolt, 4-Bolt Flanges, Radial Ball Bearings, Insert Bearings

OUTER HC207-20 1-1/4 Insert Bearing Large OD HC207-20 1-1/4" Insert Bearing Large OD

INNER 1 1/16" Insert Bearings UC206-17 1 1/16" Insert Bearings UC206-17

They are a perfect fit, but I don't know if they are sealed as well as stock bearings.
You also need to pull the pins off the outerrace with pliers.

What year is your machine?

Yeah $45 is expensive...Thanks for that info! I believe my machine is 1981.

[Freedom6X6]

You can even call the guys at Buffalo Bearing. They deal with many 6x6World members and they're really helpful with any questions you might have (716) 874-1720. I usually just give the outer race of my seized and stuck bearing a good hard couple of wacks with a ball peen hammer. If you have any issues, bring it up to my place, I'm just south of Buffalo and I'd be happy to help.

I am also south of Buffalo in Arcade, I will definitely be giving you a call! Probably Sunday or Monday.