Max IV will not move. Please help....

[hydromike]

From a previous post, if you tried revving the engine and it started smoking the belt, you've got far larger issues than the belt or the driven clutch. As far as troubleshooting goes, the clutch doesn't care if it's completely open or completely closed on the belt in order to spin the shaft. If the shaft simply doesn't turn in neutral, or turns with any difficulty, the driven clutch has nothing to do with it.

Take the belt off completely, and spin the transmission by hand using the clutch. Ignore the fact that the clutch is on there, and just see what it does/doesn't do on each side of the machine in forward/neutral/reverse. Block the machine up in the air so you can actually see things turning as you go. Check the end play on the main shaft, too. A little bit (1/8" or so?) isn't bad, but if you've got a bunch of in and out slop on the shaft, you may need to address it. It's a good idea to get the new belt anyway, but by the looks and sounds of things, the T-20 should come out. I know it sucks; I know it's a lot of work.

[2band]

I just tried to turn it in by hand in neutral. I can turn it but not easily. How freely is it supposed to spin in neutral? I will try to block it up this afternoon and see what it will do in gear.

[hydromike]

I just tried to turn it in by hand in neutral. I can turn it but not easily. How freely is it supposed to spin in neutral?

If you have the belt off and both shifters in neutral, the clutch should spin just about effortlessly. Effortlessly as in, you should be able to spin it, let go and it should still spin a little bit. If you still have the belt on, take into account that you have to put a little more effort into moving that, too.

[2band]

Definitely not spinning that easily. The belt is on but its not that tight, so it isn't holding it up too much. I am getting the feeling I need to start clearing off a weekend pretty soon...

[hydromike]

Agreed, but don't get discouraged. The hardest part of the entire procedure is removing all the parts necessary to get to the transmission. It'll go quickly once you get started. The knowledge you'll gain will really be priceless.

Let us know if you run into any obstacles, or if you need advice on what size hammer to grab first.

[2band]

Thanks, will do. Ill keep you posted......

[2band]

Well, I decided to go ahead and get a new belt so I took the old one off. I tried again to turn the clutch by hand in neutral, but it was very hard to turn. I thought before I started removing everything I would just check the fluid in the trans. Sure enough, just as I feared, the thing was bone dry. So I added the proper amount of fluid and try to turn it by hand again. I made a couple of revolutions but it was still difficult to turn. I figured that maybe if I put the belt back on and ran it in neutral it might lube everything up real good and loosen it up. I still had the motor mount bolts loose so I tightened one up to hold the motor down and cranked it up. After running for a few seconds, it seemed like it might have worked, so I thought what the heck, I will just put it in gear and see what it will do. I put it in gear, gave it some throttle, and the thing drove straight off of the trailer! I even tried it in reverse after that (kind of had too, to get it back on the trailer), and it worked as well. I got it back on the trailer and put it in neutral and I could turn it very easily by hand and everything seemed to be in working order. I ordered a new belt that should be in on Friday so I am waiting until then before I give it a full test run.

What do you guys think? Does it sound like I may have dodged a bullet? What kind of damage could have potentially be done that might pop up in the near future by running it dry?

[amphibious drew]

Dodge a bullet??? Maybe, your not out of the woods yet. I am curious if the tranny ever hadfluid in it, or where did it go? Check, check, and check again for leaks. You cant be too sure. Not that it would allow that much fluid out, but make sure the plug with a small hole (breather valve) is on the top hole and the bottom plug is the solid one. You could have scarred the drums or wore the bands dowb quite a bit which could cause future scaring of the drums. I would order a center gasket from ri and split the t-20 to inspect the bands and drums. Put it back together using the new seal and make sure everything fits tight with no leaks.

[mustangwagz]

Dodge a bullet??? Maybe, your not out of the woods yet. I am curious if the tranny ever hadfluid in it, or where did it go? Check, check, and check again for leaks. You cant be too sure. Not that it would allow that much fluid out, but make sure the plug with a small hole (breather valve) is on the top hole and the bottom plug is the solid one. You could have scarred the drums or wore the bands dowb quite a bit which could cause future scaring of the drums. I would order a center gasket from ri and split the t-20 to inspect the bands and drums. Put it back together using the new seal and make sure everything fits tight with no leaks.

x2 on this buddy...by the sounds of things..it was dry..and it was driven...thats not good. I would DEFF split the case and see whats goin on in there..JUST to be safe. Yes, its alotta work, and if nothings tore up or scarred, sure..it was down time. BUT, atleast you'll know. AND if something is chewed up, it'll be preventive future problem solving. I'd rather tear it apart and replace a few parts now, than tear it down later and find that EVERYTHING in the trans needs replaced man.. T20's are great trans, and they been using them since the early days (before i was even a twinkle in my parents eyes..) but one thing about em, keep em in top shape and your good otherwise you'll be sorry later. lol..im sure you dont wanna hear these type of replys now that it moves, but we're just trying to save you some future grief!!

Thats my 2 pennies..

-WagZ-

[racerone3]

Torched input bearing! it ran dry till it seized. when the input shaft was turning really hard, the outer race of the bearing was probably spinning in it's bore. lube freed the bearing back up. there is no way to guess how bad it hurt the bearing. it's a cheap fix money wise, but rather labor intensive. you will have to split the case and tear down the entire left side. at minimum, replace the bearing and all seals. as Drew said, there is no telling what you will find as far as damage to bands and drums (and sun gear/ output shaft bearings).

The T-20 is an incredibly tough unit. you might run it another 10 years as it is right now, but I wouldn't want to get too far from the truck by myself with it knowing what has happened.