18hp vanguard... Video attached PLEASE HELP!!!

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Thread: 18hp vanguard... Video attached PLEASE HELP!!!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Peoria Heights,IL
    Posts
    223

    18hp vanguard... Video attached PLEASE HELP!!!

    Hey all, picked up a 98 max IV for a buddy of mine a couple weekends back, and am having a hard time getting it to rev smoothly. Video gives explanation, but incase it doesn't work...here's the issue.

    When idling and NO choke, it almost acts like it's flooding out. It loads up, then revs up. At about half choke, no issues at all, idles fine, revs fine etc. whether it's warmed up or not, half choke seems to be the sweet spot. With the air filter off, and NO choke I can see gas spitting out of the top of the carb when it sputters.

    I've replaced the plugs, checked the valves, and took apart the carb spraying every jet, cleaned out fuel bowl etc. saw nothing really that would prevent it from running right.

    Could anyone shed some light on this?

    http://vid45.photobucket.com/albums/...pseejzhntg.mp4
    Last edited by MikeyM; 10-06-2014 at 11:00 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Guelph, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    150
    First word of advice, throw away that spray carb cleaner. How is that supposed to clean anything? Get some proper carb dip, take the whole carb apart, soak all metal parts with no plastic or rubber parts left in (unless you're replacing them and don't care), let it all soak for minimum 24 hours (you can stir it every once in a while), when you take it out, use compressed air to blow out all the passageways, then put it back together with a brand new carb kit.

    Yes, it costs more. Yes, its more work. But, you'll have an engine that runs properly. Don't band aid fix it. I've learned my lessons with carbs, and dip and rebuild is the only way to do it and have your engine fire up and run right away.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Waldo Wi
    Posts
    941
    Yep!


    Quote Originally Posted by Rudy_Magnum View Post
    First word of advice, throw away that spray carb cleaner. How is that supposed to clean anything? Get some proper carb dip, take the whole carb apart, soak all metal parts with no plastic or rubber parts left in (unless you're replacing them and don't care), let it all soak for minimum 24 hours (you can stir it every once in a while), when you take it out, use compressed air to blow out all the passageways, then put it back together with a brand new carb kit.

    Yes, it costs more. Yes, its more work. But, you'll have an engine that runs properly. Don't band aid fix it. I've learned my lessons with carbs, and dip and rebuild is the only way to do it and have your engine fire up and run right away.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Meadville, Pa
    Posts
    3,286
    On a side note, no matter how many times you clean the carb, if the fuel line is deteriorating, it will re-clog again. I recently replaced all my line with blue 1/4" ID line from amazon. $17 for 25 feet and you can see the gas flowing through the lines. Plus it's not supposed to get hard and deteriorate like black line.
    l like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Peoria Heights,IL
    Posts
    223
    Awesome, thanks for the responses. I will go out tonight and buy a carb soak kit and soak it. At lunch, I will go out an pick up a rebuild kit

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Smithfield N.C.
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    782
    The guy I bought my 2002 conquest told me that it has never seen ethanol, only fuel with no corn. It cost me right at $4.00 a gallon. Just a thought that if you are going to that much trouble of cleaning it out the right way that you might want to go one step more. Just a thought from someone still learning.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    Waldo Wi
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    That's a fact! Tecumseh had a recall some yrs ago where they had to replace the fuel lines because the ethanol was eating up the inside of the fuel line and as Drew said, the fuel would turn to jelly in the carb.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2014
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    LANCASHIRE, UK
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    203
    Quote Originally Posted by amphibious drew View Post
    On a side note, no matter how many times you clean the carb, if the fuel line is deteriorating, it will re-clog again. I recently replaced all my line with blue 1/4" ID line from amazon. $17 for 25 feet and you can see the gas flowing through the lines. Plus it's not supposed to get hard and deteriorate like black line.
    Hi
    Do you have a link to this fuel line? sorry to but in. I need to replace oneon one of my Max II
    Richie

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Central Kentucky
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    387
    Add Startron to your fuel. It's what a lot of the small engine guys are using around here. It neutralized the ethanol. Great stuff. I use it in all my equipment.
    Immature. A word used by boring people to describe fun people.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Peoria Heights,IL
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    Well here's the update. Got the chem-tool bucket, took off the carb and threw it in there. In the mean time, removed wasp nest of side of heads, cleaned cover, cleaned intake tube, then went inside and had dinner and watched tv for a bit....aprox 2 hours. Came back out, and was amazed and how spot less the carb was! Looked like new!!!!

    Put it all back together, and still runs the same So off came the top of the carb to check the bowl, to see if there was any gunk from the fuel....none, BUT, noticed the float was rubbing against the inside of the carb. So "adjusted a bit" runs better but not entirely there yet. Convinced it's the float. So tomorrow, I'll go grab one....fingers crossed!

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