Max ii chain help please

[wiggy]

Hi All
I was looking at splitting the shift levers and noticed the front right chain after the adjuster, the chain looks like its veing off to the tub wall, (heading towards the rear) looking down at the jack shafts seems the chain that goes to the middle axle also is veing off am I right in thinking the axle has moved? I was out in it at the week end spinning around,it did not notice it then when greased the chains Will try and figure out how to post a picture from my ipad.
Richie

[hydromike]

Hey Richie,


It sure sounds like your axle has slid out a bit. It could be that the eccentric locking collar on the outer bearing has come loose, or the inner bearing race has broken on that bearing (fairly common occurrence.) Are you running splined or pinned (bolt-through) axles? The splined axles usually (always?) had a retaining bolt on the inside of the inner bearing that helped stop this, but I don't think the pinned axles did. Take that center tire off and have a look-see at the outer bearing.

[john swenson]

richie, i think mike's right. maybe a broken collar or bearing. only other thing to check is if the sprockets may have slid over on the axle. let us know what you discover. johnboy va.

[wiggy]

Hi Mike and Johnboy
its a splined axle, would be the middle one! looks hard to get too? will have a look tomorrow and let you know.
Thanks again for you help.
Richie

[wiggy]

Hi Mike and Johnboy
Had a look and the sprocket has moved about 5-8mm! do you need to remove chains to tighten it?
Richie

[hydromike]

Hey Richie,


I don't have a Max II handy to look at, but are all three sprockets on that axle joined by a common tube? It sounds like a set screw either came loose or broke to cause this, but I'm not sure if you have alignment problems with one or two chains. Regardless, you shouldn't have to remove the chains to get it lined back up. Check to make sure it's the sprocket that's moved and not the axle. Then remove the set screw and pry the sprocket(s) back over until the set screw hole in the sprocket lines up with the recess in the axle, then retighten the set screw. You can add a second set screw above the first to serve as a "lock screw" of sorts if necessary.


Post those pictures if you get a chance so others can see what you're dealing with...

[wiggy]

Hi Mike
Yes all three on one tube,you can see a rust mark were the sprocket was, axle looks ok. will have a go at it tomorrow, does this happen alot?
Richie

[hydromike]

I wouldn't necessarily say it happens "a lot", but it's not out of the ordinary. If it's a broken or loose set screw, one way to fix the issue is by putting split shaft-collars on each side of the axle if you have the room.


Here's a link to the them, but they're common from hundreds of other suppliers. You can snag them on ebay quite cheaply ($3 each) McMaster-Carr


Another more intense option is to have the axle machined for C-clips on each side of the sprocket. They can be a real bugger to get off when they get dirty though. If the room allows, and you're worried about it happening again, go with the split collars.


Mike

[egoperf]

It is common for that to happen with the set screw design. That is why RI changed to snap rings to hold the spocket in place. There will be double set screws in there. They used locktite so you will have to heat them to get them out. Like Mike said your best bet is to replace the set screws or get someone to machine the snapring grooves. Or use the set screws and add lock colliers

[wiggy]

Thanks for the infor, not looking forward to it, had one hell of a time with a rounded rusty set screw on my other Max, could not get the set screw out on the brake disc. will see if I can find them split shaft colliers.
Richie