To answer the question, the previous owner told me he had used the tracks in snow before without any trouble. He mentioned it was fairly deep, coming up to the top of the tub. However i got the sense this wasn't something he did every day of the winter, but more of an occasional thing.
If you made some type of bearing extensions that would be a plus for tracks and not, I've had the old style machine bearing failure and it sucks. Once the lock collar fails the axle walks due to no inner bearing ruining you day until replaced, a second bearing being installed at inner frame rail or in the bearing extensions would be much more reliable for tracks.
You should be ok with plastic tracks without bearing extensions as there is some slippage in plastic tracks compared to rubber but they would help.
The older factory wheels where common to loose beads especially as tires get older and harder , the owner may have installed tubes to compensate for leaks or to help keep beads seated.
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
As long as I'm yackin, I'm not sure I'd trust that roll bar as it looks like exhaust tubing but be sure it is tied to frame for actual safety and if so wear the belts. I see a twist throttle conversion and an internal exhaust conversion.
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
Thanks ArgoJim, I didn't know there was more play in the plastic tracks versus rubber. I was wondering what it would take to add bearings to the inner frame rail, might start with that and see where it leads.
That makes sense about older tires losing beads.
I didn't know the twist throttle was a modification, PO mentioned new exhaust and that it was quieter.
Good tip about the roll bar, i think it's just bolted to the body.
i've always understood that a solid shaft in terms of bending , tensile , and compression forces will be more stronger for the same material dimensions as well as loading. strength to weight ration is better for hollow than solid. hollow can withstand the same stress as solid. so i would think alot depends on the application . banging along a trail in a 6x6 is different than say a jackshaft type application . interesting to know whose changed from hollow to solid on a aatv and found they were'nt bending axles anymore . johnboy va.
Thank you Johnboy VA for the insight. I'm starting to think I should add the 3/4 rod just for some extra peace of mind. It would be neat to see whose upgraded axles and how it worked out for them.
I'm looking around now, but just to double check, if I want to add bearings to the inner frame I'm looking for the two bolt flange bearings with callout HCFL207-20? And it would be better to find them with the locking collar instead of set screws?
That bearing will work, you will have to likely square up the one inner rail. As far as locking collar or set screw, either one, I would either use a knurled set screw or dimple the axle with a dogged or pointed set screw and use locktite on either.
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
Got it, thank you ArgoJim.
Hi everyone! Brit here and I'm new to the amphibious atv world. Just purchased a 2008 Max IV with 127 hrs on machine. Have not been able to use it due to the previous owner removing the engine to use on a surface drive mud boat, who then sold it to someone else where it sat untouched, who then sold it to me. Need help with determining a decent motor size to put back in it. I intended on first putting a 28 HP air cooled Hatz 790 diesel in it that I have laying in my shop, but at almost 400 lbs, it may be a little heavy , plus the clutch size I have is 1" output shaft and the diesel is 1"7/16. I'm down here in the Southern Louisiana marsh and thinking lighter may be better (some really Bad marsh here), and that brings me to my next dilemma "Tracks". I've found a used (as in never even been used) set of Rubber tracks for a 2015 Max Buffalo truck for the asking price of $1500, and that includes: 6 new 21" tires and rims with support bar rails, bearing cages and wheel extensions. Tracks are 4 hrs away, and I've only seen pictures. Would anyone know if these tracks would even fit. The Max IV and Buffalo truck look about the same frame, but not sure,, or would I just be better off with the lighter adair tracks every ones talking about here " $3600 price quote". The original owner used this MAX IV as a floating duck blind, so I also have a set of 25" dual wheels and extensions that came with machine. Since I have yet to repower machine, not sure how duals would even work in this floating tundra type marsh. Sorry for this lengthy intro and confusion. Just looking for some" been there, done that guidance"... Thanks everyone Brit.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
