the chain adjuster on the front right of my max ii always pops when i tighten it, then the chain is just sloppy. it appears to lock in properly as the others do, but it doesn't stay. it mostly pops when i do a really tight turn to the right...
the chain adjuster on the front right of my max ii always pops when i tighten it, then the chain is just sloppy. it appears to lock in properly as the others do, but it doesn't stay. it mostly pops when i do a really tight turn to the right...
Andy, I have the same issue. In my opinion that chain tensioner is a poor set up because the teeth that the tension locks into are so shallow. Once it starts popping, it only gets worse. I guess all you can do is replace it. I've heard that the newer ones have deeper teeth cut so this doesn't have as good of a chance of occuring. If it were up to me, I would have stayed with the very early Max II idler sprocket tensioners that you actually bolt down to tighten. Those worked great, and even the Max IV still uses an idler sprocket set up today.
I my experience the chain alignment is the biggest factor causing this. If the chain is running too close to the center of the max, or the adjuster is too far from the center, the adjuster parts get pulled apart by the chain, disengaging the teeth.
When you turn hard to the right, you are using the brakes hard on the right side, applying a lot of tension to the top of the front chain, where the adjuster rides. The chain is pulled tight and straight, pulling the adjuster's teeth away from each other, and the teeth skip. It would probably also skip under load in reverse.
This problem seems to be more common with the front chain adjusters than the rear. I think it is because it is more common to bend front axles then rear axles. When people replace the axle, they slide it into the max as far as it will go (max IIs without inner bearings), not realizing that the chain is out of line. (too far from the adjuster) Rear axles rarely get bent or replaced, so they stay aligned.
The mounting holes for the adjuster are slotted so they can be aligned. I like to adjust them so the plastic block is pushing the chain toward the center of the vehicle a bit. This way when the chain is under tension it is pushing the teeth together, instead of pulling them apart. You may need to move the right front axle out to get it set up like this.
Unfortunatly you may have to replace the adjuster, because once the teeth have skipped a few times they may be damaged and not hold like they should.
If a new adjuster is put in with the same alignment as the old one, it will not last long.
Sorry for the long post but I have been there myself, and hopfully this will help with your Max and maybe some other Maxes 2. Now that mine is set up this way I can ride as hard as I want, even do wheel stands, and not have an adjuster skip.
coolllllllllllll thanks dan we are still learning about the max i enjoy you post . robbieOriginally Posted by Hey_Dan78
I my experience the chain alignment is the biggest factor causing this. If the chain is running too close to the center of the max, or the adjuster is too far from the center, the adjuster parts get pulled apart by the chain, disengaging the teeth.
When you turn hard to the right, you are using the brakes hard on the right side, applying a lot of tension to the top of the front chain, where the adjuster rides. The chain is pulled tight and straight, pulling the adjuster's teeth away from each other, and the teeth skip. It would probably also skip under load in reverse.
This problem seems to be more common with the front chain adjusters than the rear. I think it is because it is more common to bend front axles then rear axles. When people replace the axle, they slide it into the max as far as it will go (max IIs without inner bearings), not realizing that the chain is out of line. (too far from the adjuster) Rear axles rarely get bent or replaced, so they stay aligned.
The mounting holes for the adjuster are slotted so they can be aligned. I like to adjust them so the plastic block is pushing the chain toward the center of the vehicle a bit. This way when the chain is under tension it is pushing the teeth together, instead of pulling them apart. You may need to move the right front axle out to get it set up like this.
Unfortunatly you may have to replace the adjuster, because once the teeth have skipped a few times they may be damaged and not hold like they should.
If a new adjuster is put in with the same alignment as the old one, it will not last long.
Sorry for the long post but I have been there myself, and hopfully this will help with your Max and maybe some other Maxes 2. Now that mine is set up this way I can ride as hard as I want, even do wheel stands
1999 max 2 18 b&s 22 tires custom . new max iv 23 k 26 i/n tires brown . ht cable promark winch . new toy 1972 attex st400 400ccjlo and she will be bad . ( the frog )if it don't float with out you getting wet . don't bring it !
R.I.P sage rogers 4 11 09 .
good post
Hey, Hey Dan-That was a very good post. Hows married life?
Married life is going great, thanks for asking Phillip! Were looking forward to seeing everone from Ribit Riders at the installation dinner in a couple months.
I am working on a new design for the chain adjusters with skateboard wheels so they will last longer. and roll with the chain, not let it slide... I will post pictures when I have it done.
jcjamieson ,
A few forum members have built their own style of chain adjusters, and they seem to work REALLY well. The forum member " boncrshr built his own style of chain adjusters for his Hustler 950. Believe it not,, his custom built chain adjusters hardly need adjusting at all.
Dave
That sounds good. I just bought a set of skateboard wheels, bearings, and all the goodies. I need to get on the mill and cut some slots in the channel for the actual adjustment. I was going to put the wheels on the lathe and cut channels in the wheels.
i found the problem was that the sprocket in the front was a little loose...just enough to move side to side and pop it out. problem solved!
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