MaxII chain adjusters

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Thread: MaxII chain adjusters

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Charlotte, Mi/ Houghton Lake Mi
    Posts
    2,910

    MaxII chain adjusters

    This is my mind always trying to build the better (or less expensive) mousetrap. Design #1 is a home version of what is already available to buy. The factory adjusters work untill dirty or worn, then they slip and release the tension. Design #2 modifies the originals so they cannot release the tension. I have not tried either design yet, and don't have any plans to in the near future. If anyone else wants to, go ahead.
    Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    vernon, AL
    Posts
    19
    what did you use for that white piece of roller and where did you get it?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Charlotte, Mi/ Houghton Lake Mi
    Posts
    2,910
    Mcmaster-carr ....McMaster-Carr Try this part# 8705K351

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    2,161
    That looks like a pretty slick concept. I've been thinking about an automatic chain adjuster for years, kinda similar to what Argo now uses. In building a better mousetrap though it would be nice to have a dynamic adjuster (one that works when the chain travels either direction.) No solution yet, but several concepts on the internet look promising. I think the limiting factor though is the nylon foot. The round stock has proven to me to be more durable than the horizontal piece.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    byesville oh.
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    101
    Go to fastnal.com type in roller chain sprockets there is a company that sells an auto tensioner type system it doesnt bolt to anything but the chain force from pulling and pushing keeps it in place its a real nice setup if u find it goggle the name of there part they make some cool stuff for roller chains i have never heard of anyone on here use this on there aatv but i bet it would work great

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    vernon, AL
    Posts
    19
    awseome.....I just ordered the stuff off of mcmaster.com for $12 bucks. Should be enough to do all four adjusters if I use the brackets from the original adjusters. Gona try to copy your first design cuz it looks like a winner. May have a few more questions in the future. Sure am glad I saw this thread cuz I was about to drop $180 at richards!!!! thanks again for sharing and the pics!!!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    vernon, AL
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    19
    Also, one other question......What keeps the roller/bolt from sliding up and down after you tighten it in the firstdesign???

    I see that you put the threaded female piece that the bolt screws into inside the black track, but what holds it still?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Charlotte, Mi/ Houghton Lake Mi
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    The inner washer is welded to the bolt. The bolt is 1/2", the roller is 5/8" ID, this must be loose to roll. If you notice in the parts pic there is a "C" shaped washer I used for a spacer then removed it after welding. Remember to have a bucket of water near by to cool it off before the roller melts. I made 4 stitch welds to keep the heat from building up.
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    byesville oh.
    Posts
    101
    heres the chain tensioners i was talking about i think they would work great on an aatv
    Snapidle Chain and Belt Tensioners

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    West Central Louisiana near Toledo Bend Reservoir
    Posts
    1,059
    I helped Dave (Mudbug3) put some of those on his MaxIV, about 15 months ago. I'm thinking a couple of other members tried them also. I would like to run them on my Hustlers, but they pull the chain together, which causes it to rub the frame cross members.

    I've got some of the Delrin rod to use for the rollers on my 980. What convinced me to try it is this, the guys that tear down the engines at work had tried about everything imaginable for knocking the pistons out of them. We ordered a couple of 6' sticks and machined them to fit over the end cap bolts, and thin enough on one side to fit between them and the crank. Approximately 1500 engines later they are still using the original 3 rods. So this stuff has got to be tough!

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