It's rated for use on O-ringed and conventional chains.Originally Posted by rdr
I should explain my "liberal use" of chain lube. You don't want it to gloop up an hold
dirt. If it starts any build up it needs to be cleaned before application. I also prefer application to a warm chain.
BTW: I assume you meant PJ Black? If so, I have used it and prefer the Maxima.
Less mess.
tom
As I rode my Harley Roadking to work this morning (belt drive, no chain), I wondered if belt drive would work in our machines. It sure would be quiet, and water would be no problem. The belts should last a lifetime, unless you get something caught between the sprocket and the belt. You would never have to lube or worry about rust.
I often wish that my machine were more stealth.
Later,
Rutledge
I've wondered that myself. It was really nice going all the way up the east coast of the US/Canada and back on my Lowrider and never worrying about lubing/adjustingAs I rode my Harley Roadking to work this morning (belt drive, no chain), I wondered if belt drive would work in our machines. It sure would be quiet, and water would be no problem. The belts should last a lifetime, unless you get something caught between the sprocket and the belt. You would never have to lube or worry about rust.
I often wish that my machine were more stealth.
Later,
Rutledge
chains. Not to mention the absence of chain snatch.(Still preferred my cross countries on the XR 650L though.)
Should be an easy calculation - when I get back to the office next week I'll grab some engineering books and see what torques a small diameter cogged belts/pulleys/widths can take. If those belts can stand up to hot rodded 1380 Harleys I would assume
a 25 horse Kohler shoudn't be a problem.
Now how to adapt that to the T-20 could be interesting...
Which brings up another topic - whats with the drilled/pinned sprockets(a least on Attexs). Why not just use keyways? I did a rough calc a while back and if my math was correctly, a designed keyway was stronger torsionally than could be achieved pinning.
Would certainly open up some cheaper simpler rechaining/sprocketing solutions.
Any engineers out there?
I think having to assemble the axles with belts presents a problem. Also the amount of debris, mud and everything else would cause issues with a belt drive system. How much is a new belt for a Harley?
I've been considering this very thing for a Racer Attex I'm working on. The belts will be pricy, and getting pullies machined up (I plan on fitting to Whipper's Splined Axles) will be also. Once it's disassembled it should be easy to put axles in most of the way, slip belt over the axles, and once all belts/axles are on work one end at a time onto pullies. With Anti-seize and regular maintenance, it should be easy to remove and re-install axles to do belts. Dust/Dirt and mud should not wreck the belts, although they WILL shorten their life, I suspect the effect will be much less so than on chain, belt can give so sand doesn't grind in there, just a trip aroup pully and falls out. A stone or pebble, on the other hand, would punch right through, so inspections would be critical. Efficiency is where I am not sure, I think belt is more efficient, but I'm not sure on that, and I'm also not sure on weight. The pullies will be heavier than sprokets, belt of comperable strength should be lighter, so ???
Last edited by 6X6; 11-05-2008 at 03:08 PM.
Attex 295 Wild Wolf:My Runner
Attex 252? Colt? Racer 80%: My Racer to be..... SOMEDAY
Attex Super Chief - Sold.
6x6, Gates makes "Poly Chain" as a direct replacement for just about any chain and sprocket. Their synchronous belts and matching sheaves are an excellent chain/sprocket replacement. The are basically maintenance free, but expensive. but with very good payback, especially with 250 hr chain life. Other qualities are light weight, and higher efficiencies.
In order to simplify the engineering/selection process they have free design software. If you are serious I would work with a Rep. in your area. Here is a link, browse their site for more info. Gates Belt/Sprocket Interchange Guide | Gates Corporation
Bw6, where do you work? Sounds like you have some experience...
Tim
98 Max II
wet belts don't work robbie
1999 max 2 18 b&s 22 tires custom . new max iv 23 k 26 i/n tires brown . ht cable promark winch . new toy 1972 attex st400 400ccjlo and she will be bad . ( the frog )if it don't float with out you getting wet . don't bring it !
R.I.P sage rogers 4 11 09 .
The Gates Poly Chain is often used on Harleys.
Harley drive belt prices range from $100(Kevlar) to $200 Poly or rubber. Sprockets are aluminum.
I just checked mine and was amazed that it looked brand new with 15,000 miles.
Pulleys and belt showed virtually zero wear - never been adjusted(though it will soon for a new tire).
Harley belts are run open and subjected to water and of course mild dusting.
Granted I drive the Harley a lot differently than my GS/XRL/whatever but I never got more than 6k out of a chain and usually a lot less.(and that included a lot of lubing and adjusting)
tom
Snafu6x6, I retired from the Engineering World when I was 56, I'm 64 now and enjoying almost every minute. My hobby is AATV's I really enjoy the sport and the people involved in it. I'm happy to be out of the rat race, but as a Mechanical Design Engineer it did provide a decent living for my family (wife and 4 kids/dog)
Regarding the Poly Chain, every product has it's limitations, whereas this product is impervious to moisture, and will handle a "wash down" environment, it's not meant to run submerged in water, so if your tub fills up with water, via the seals or bearings then this is not a good application. It's great for shock loads, and I think it would be a great chain replacement in the right machine.
In my experience most of the excessive chain wear comes from shock loads, and in a way "self-inflicted" by the chain lub picking up dirt and sand making it an excellent "grinding compound". I was close to tying the Poly Chain, but went with the much cheaper chain alternative, maybe one day soon.
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