Putting newer splined axels on older Max IV?

[AKTrail]

Is it possible to do this? I replaced both rear axels last year and added Richard's cup washers... still busting bolts every now and then. Only on the back two. It stinks to replace them when you are trying to get to the moose stand at 5 am or it is pouring rain at 35 degrees.

Any other ideas on what causes this to happen? I keep a close eye on the tension/lube and have replaced all chains only a year ago. All sprokets are aligned also.

Do other Maxaddicts have this issue with older Max?

[Robinhood02]

so are you talkin bout the sproket pins or axle brg bolts ??

[wfo]

yes you can.. i upgraded my 94 max IV and it works great..it exspensive if you
do all of them but worth it..or you can just do the main drive at the rear..

[thebuggyman1]

I was considering the same thing on a MaxII. Expensive??? Does anybody know the cost? Axles? Sprockets? Inner bearing? And most important: how does the inner bearing mount to the frame? Anybody got pictures? While I'm asking....are the axle sprockets the same from side to side? I didn't mark mine when I tore it down. There are differences in appearance, but bolt hole to sprocket they seem to be the same.
Sorry to hi jack your thread AKTrail

[Uncle Vin]

Is it possible to do this? I replaced both rear axels last year and added Richard's cup washers... still busting bolts every now and then. Only on the back two. It stinks to replace them when you are trying to get to the moose stand at 5 am or it is pouring rain at 35 degrees.

Any other ideas on what causes this to happen? I keep a close eye on the tension/lube and have replaced all chains only a year ago. All sprokets are aligned also.

Do other Maxaddicts have this issue with older Max?

Try drilling the bolt holes to one size larger. The problem is that your axle bolt holes have elongated. By using the Richard's Relic's bolt cups, you fixed the elongation problem on the sprokets, but that did nothing for elongation of the axle bolts, so there is still movement. Play (movement) between the axle and sproket will cause the bolts to shear. Drill the bolt holes out and install bigger bolts. Make sure that you use bolts that are long enough so that the bolt shoulder -- and not the threads of the bolt -- are pressed against the contact surfaces of the axle and sproket. Translation: install bolts that are too long and then cut them down to size. Do not use Grade 8 bolts. Use Grade 5. Grade 5 will resist shearing forces better than Grade 8. There are threads on this site which discuss this issue. Uncle Vin

[AKTrail]

Robinhood, I am talking about the bolt that passses thru the sprocket sleeve and axle between the spocket. Axle bearing bolts are fine.

Uncle Vin,

I replaced the rear axles themselves as well and the bearings. I guess I could pull the axles and see if I have elongated holes, but if I go that far I want to put back the splined axles. I figured out that bolt grade thing, too! Yes... the hard way haha.
I jacked up one side at a time and the wheel will rock back and forth (forward and back not side to side) with out turning the spocket. Sounds like an elongated hole to me, too. I just dont want it it happen again!

[Uncle Vin]

That fit needs to be tight. No slop. When you re-drill, use a micrometer to get a bit as close as you can to the thickness of the bolt shaft. Don't just blindly use a bit that "matches" the size of the numerical designation of the bolt. I mean, go to Home Depot, or whereever, and mic the different brand bits to get one that matches as close as possible. Any slop in the fit will grow over time. And you won't have another chance to get it right before you take too much material out of the axle. I had to re-drill. I used a metric bolt, because that was the size in between the two SAE bolt sizes. There is a specific thread on this subject where it was gone over in great detail. Do a search for the tread. It's worth reading.