Muscateer out for a drive

[riotwarrior]

Just checked on my tap/die set, and I've got both 1/8" NPT tap and die, I rechased the nipple with my tap and low and behold a significant taper to the thread now compared to previously.

If that grease gun hose works I'll do it so when I remove engine I can just uncouple it from the T, that would make it really convenient in my mind. The more I can do to simplify service to this the better.

Oh this has been today...BTW

Ahh...the low oil pres, warning sender, sorry for blurry pic but camera wouldn't focus and I had no room to move back..


the oil pressure gauge new tubing is threaded along Pass side and reached to sender easily


Here with fuel tank removed, you can now see the added wood and 1/8" steel plate I used on inside of winch mount...clearly this is strong! I don't think I'll pull bolts, maybe whole front end off but not bolts....but that's 3/4" plywood glassed to tub under the 1/8" plate...ya should be good to pull. Two holes on RIGHT up top are for power wires to winch I'll be installing with all this out.


Ah front of unit with mount...ya strong!


Pulls from below winch and above winch or top and bottom of tub...


RETURN line location to be


This is the fitting I'm going to weld into place


Bung fitting I'm adding to bottom of tank



Yuppers all welded into place, now to plug it and test for leaks...




and the return line fitting


Got a score, the Super wifey brought this home today, small case Ford 3G alternator...this could be the end all be all of electrical power for this machine



Would sit something like this...???


That would make charging battery and winching superior to the lil Dynamo in the fan assembly, which in and of it's self is a RPITA to setup considering I've not got all the stock parts to do so.

Well gotta cook some dinner soon, then I'll be out to test the tank for leaks if none then paint and steam it out again and call Lordco on a fuel tank sealer kit.

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Ahh....man it's coming together..

NEW Tygon return line installed, I've got to get some clamps for this stuff....somewhere somehow


I wanted to see what I could do to get a visual of how the lines and wiring are coming along under the edge in the small clamps. Clearly that oil pressure line needs a bit of TLC but I'll get it, I can't reach in that space to easy, other than that this is working superb! This is looking back to where the fuel line exits INTO the tub by fuel pump, and all the electrical for the fuel pump, starter, trans cooler pump etc.


again looking back but from about where the fuel line would enter tank so to speak..


Welded and done, now to seal inside


cleaned up the fuel filter that came with the engine, it's a small cannister, I'm thinking this is getting installed


small section of inlet broke off hope it's not a problem


likely get installed someplace like about HERE lol


and a reminder of what it all looked like when I got it...notice pile of wire near head lights..


Ya this beast has come a LEAPS and BOUNDS from where it was...

So that's tonights work and I'm done for today.

Thanks for reading

[riotwarrior]

Got NEW fuel line and filter installed, still need run main fuel line forward to the tank location.

Ah filter housing, and I'm going to replace this unit eventually




Lines getting installed






Got line installed and grommet for safety


Now electrical, Ahh...Two uhm GM products here, for wire/electrical distribution


I will run ONE of the above from the ACC circuit on the keyed switch, to power items like Hour meter, and switch panel.




The other one will be off the MAIN power INTO the keyed switch for constant power, like HORN, and 12V acc plug I have.

This will help to consolidate how the power is tapped and clean up wiring to the Ign switch.

Looks like this is coming together...woo hoo...

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Oooooo...Aaaaaa...

Off to Penticton today and I was at Lordco and picked up this kit here
POR-15 Motorcycle Fuel Tank Repair Kit

Now I can get back working on the fuel tank and wiring and get tank cleaned up and installed along with remaining wiring.

Looks like a straight forward procedure to clean/seal the tank. I'm going to get some PVC pipe plugs for the three bung holes to cap them and the filler hole sits INSIDE the tank enough it won't drain out of the hole.

I'll post pics and a fully detailed HOW to...maybe this can be a TECH 101 for big tanks too??? I'll see what I come up with.

Well now to and deal with a few things before Rose gets home.

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Well it's cooled right down and with the Super's Ranger I've been neglecting the Muscateer.

Today with sore back and all I did eff all on ranger except get a NEW block heater and install it LOL>

Then into shop some mild cleanup and on to the six wheeler!

I figured time to get some electrical completed and sorted out, picking up where I had left off in post 354!

Thus that brings me to my electrical panel, and switches etc.

I added to more fuse blocks so I could do a fuse for 12V power outlet/horn combined, leaving me one single fuse for future use, and I may tie in a switch as an optional switch as well...strobes perhaps? I dunno but better to have it when I need it right?...

So here is where I am so far...pointing to LOW OIL PRESSURE light then to the left are two fuse cases and then the s4 circuit switch panel for all my stuff


Four switches are

GREEN UNSWITCHED transion oil cooler pump

RED SWITCHED fuel pump

AMBER SWITCHED head lights

RED SWITCHED back up light

I'll be adding on a Green switch as well for strobes I think before I do much more..

Here is what I've got figured out on the backside...first prior to labeling...see those two chevy electrical gang wire setups...one is switched, one is unswitched. I may rewire this so MAIN power goes to unswitched and then to IGN switch currently it's to IGN then to Unswitched gang wire setup...


Then I thought why not label it...and some Sharpie time got me this!




So at this point I walked over tested it and it's working perfectly, so now to finish the last few items, then move on to installation and get the damn machine up and running.

I'm sure this will pay off in the end big time having all my electrical new, recorded, labeled and well installed. I'm not one for failures when I'm out and about. Still need to run POWER for Bilge pump switch and pumps...for future use right?

Oh I fubared my hour meter I see cause the male spades where broke off so some time it must have broke while in machine, why I don't know but I'll get a new one.

May run the Pyro to back and work on a bung for it in the exhaust.

Not sure what this leaves, except some how getting oil pressure gauge and light to work.

Well enough for now, thanks for looking...

Be back at this tonight.

[Rudy_Magnum]

Lookin good! Was kinda looking for a fuel filter like that for the Yanmar. Everyone on evilbay wants a whole lot for them. Tried looking up that Napa part #, that's just the filter element itself.

[riotwarrior]

Lookin good! Was kinda looking for a fuel filter like that for the Yanmar. Everyone on evilbay wants a whole lot for them. Tried looking up that Napa part #, that's just the filter element itself.

You should be able to get the filter housing for 40-70 bucks, and with a clear bowl. I'm considering going to the clear bowl style myself just so one can see what's what.

Decided to spend time fixing wifes lil Ranger...engine swap and so forth, so that's wrapped up and essentially done and she's happy. Thus I'm happy, and today I removed cam gears and pump eccentrics from four 6.9/7.3 Ford/IHI IDI diesels so I can swap those cams as cores for head studs.

Man that means I've an engine for my truck to roll into shop and start tear down too as well.

Back to the Muscateer...

I've still got some lil bits to finnish for wiring, no big deal and I've worked out the basics on paper for a foot throttle, that leaves the fuel tank which I have a kit for and will document.

One thing I did do is start thinking out the HOW TO and so forth of engine cover and drive train cover to replace that expanded metal setup I could not use any longer.

As a fiberglasser I've some experience in a variety of methods of creating custom glass work. Fortunately for me my good friend Scotty, who is also a glasser from way back, now does blow in foam insulation. What we discussed was to MASK thoroughly all that needs covering and blow a big chunk of foam onto the engine area. Kinda like a big blob, which will then be cut/sanded into a shap that I want. At that point I'll set wood where needed for reinforcement, and then lay a layer of mat over the whole thing. Once set I can bust out all the foam, sand the inside and lay up more glass for reinforcement and so forth. Cut openings for ducting, and mounting hardware and paint then if need be some of that egg crate soft foam to make sound deadener inside the lid. This should provide me with a durable lid with capability to duct air in and out as needed along with a nice platform for gear.

You can all be assured I'll take plenty of pictures and document the glass work thoroughly.

Beer time now

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Today I've started and will complete the FUEL TANK sealing so long as I can get it thoroughly dried once I've got it cleaned.

Started by boiling a quart/litre of water and prepping the tank with a 1/2" NPT plug and some duct tape for the other openings, poured in hot water and the DEGREASER from POR 15 and sloshed it around for quite some time.

I'm thinking my SUPER CLEAN in the purple bottle smells the same as their degreaser...Hmm...wonder....cause that's what I first sprayed into the tank to clean it before I steamed it originally...LOL

After a thorough sloshing about, I let it sit a bit whilst I fired up the pressure washer on steam mode, and proceeded to drain that fuel tank then steam that bugger out nice and clean...NO GREASE or slime left I'm sure, it was so hot of a tank I could not touch it.

After rinsing it thoroughly I've not got METAL PREP in, which is reusable too they say, so I"ve got it set on my V block stand and every 7 minutes I slowly slosh it about and turn it another few degrees and let set and reset timer which is where I am right now...between sloshings/turning LOL

Here you can see what I'm talking bout, I've almost got a full revolution of the tank sitting, but between being stationary I slosh it once around as well...slowly tipping side to side and rotating it as I do that. Then once on each end slosh and back onto V block in next clocked position...12 positions makes for a complete revolotion...like clock right???

Here at 6 oclock stage LOL


feed and return line fittings


This be my filler neck LOL


Once I've got this stage done, I"ve gotta rinse it again after draining the material. Then dry it right out, they say (they Being POR 15) to use a heat gun to blow hot air into tank. So I'm thinking that I should take heat gun...blow in filler, leave out the remaining plugs and let the hot air escape that way...maybe add a low regulated air pressure feed into tank...say through my AIR DRYER too to blow maybe 60 PSI of DRY air into tank, that ought to make it good and dry and heated in the tank I'm thinking...

I've got a couple of tip/slosh/turn cycles left then rinse, so enough for now.

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

damn rinse cycles..LOL
Muscateer fuel tank sealing Part 1 - YouTube

Next is dry cycle then the final stage of coating the inside...

Tank drying now
http://youtu.be/1Ar4GQRo-E4

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Lastly I've got a couple shots inside of the sealer, it appears to be basic silver/aluminum paint, but what do I know LOL

I've been rotating it similar to the metal prep but this time I want it warm so it's inside...Hope Super don't mind!






So it's surely coating the inside quite well by the looks of things, I'm doing the clock cycle thing to coat the inside thoroughly as I wait.

Thanks for looking