Ok, update. Got driven clutch out. Anyone have any ideas what model this is? I assume it's original as my 2nd spare transmission has an identical one on it. I just need to know where I can get a stiffer or new main spring. It's approximately 4" wide. 3" non compressed. The wire thickness is 0.257"
Last edited by allwheeldrive; 03-09-2017 at 07:23 PM. Reason: pictures
That is a speed sensitive clutch, you may be better off with a torque sensitive clutch.
Perhaps Noel and race will chime in with what they've done.
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
Yes it is, but I have had no problem with bogging down the engine, I just want it to stop slipping and I'd like to make sure everything works right before I slap another $250$ into this.
Though I'll be honest in saying I never understood how a "torque sensitive" driven clutch would work any different than a normal v-belt driven clutch.
You apply throttle. The Engine speed increases. The drive clutch's weights pull the clutch in closer together. This in turns lowers its gear ratio. As the path the belt takes around it increases.
The increasing belt tension (as the belt is now essentially too short to span the distance) pulls in on the Driven clutches main spring. The spring's resistance is what gives "bite" on the belt. If the driven clutch was welded closed and could not move when the engine RPM increased the drive clutch would get "bigger" and pull the belt tighter and tighter until. It broke or something.
Well if you had no spring in the driven clutch there would be no bite. It would offer no resistance and open to the widest point early on allowing the belt to slip.
So that is my interpretation of how a CVT clutch system works on our machines.
Now say you go up a steep hill or pull a heavy load.
This is going to slow engine RPM speed just like in a car or anything regardless of transmission type. Slower RPM means less centrifugal force in the drive clutch. It is going to open less and thus the Driven clutch is going to stay in a higher gear ratio and offer more torque. technically this is always happening all the time. Any resistance to movement slows the engine, and increases the Gear ratio. The increase of gear ratio decreases load and increases RPM. As it was explained to me and makes perfect sense. A correctly set up CVT system always attempts to maintain the engine in it's power band. Thus the engine is always running at the same peak RPM. Which makes sense to me. In first gear. Full throttle or just a hair will sound exactly the same and the coot will top out at exactly the same top speed on a flat. While if I put it in neutral I can rev the engine from stall to redline. But once in gear it is always screaming full RPM no matter on hills, flat anything.
That to me is torque sensing.
I think the common belief is that if you mash the pedal you'll increase RPM and thus end up in a higher gear with less torque, but by default if your under load your engine RPM HAS to decrease (I mean how else would you stall or be looking for more power?) and if your RPM decreases the Drive clutch opens and your gear ratio becomes higher. Giving you the torque.
Last edited by allwheeldrive; 03-10-2017 at 11:50 AM. Reason: thoughts
So from googling until I found a clutch that looks like mine I'd say it was: Diablo Rouge Clutches and Drive Belts — Bolens Hus Ski and Diablo Rouge
Salsbury 900 Series Torque Converter
However searching for that gets me no results as well sigh.
I sent an email 2 two snowmobile / ATV specialty shops and to RichardRelics no replies yet.
Allwheel if you can't find a spring from a retailer, as a last resort you can go to McMaster-Carr website and try to find one there. You will have to search through their spring selections to get the right dimensions, and somehow you need to measure the force of your stock spring to compare to the force of the new spring. You may not be able to do this, but its worth thinking about.
On another note, call Roy at Quality Drive Systems and see if he can help you. (626) 293-5770
I will try quality drive, thanks.
I have already gone the Mcmaster and grainger route lol. I SWEAR swear I saw wide diameter springs on there a few months ago but now it seems they only stock springs no wider than 2 1/2".
Oh I JUST found them again. tucked away in a corner of that massive website lol
My other option was just CNCing some 1/4" spacers to put on top and bottom of the current springs. Did that on the scrambler fixed the tension problem perfectly.
Quality Drive Systems is where I got my torque sensitive clutch. Its a much more mannered machine with this style of clutch and delivers strong power throughout the rev band, my old clutch was a basket case compared to the new T.Q. type. Spend a little money and you will be happy you did.
Did you only have to replace the driven clutch? Does it use the original belt? Do you have any pictures of it? I have been hearing about these Torque sensitive clutches and never seen one.
Whats the going price?
Thanks.
I'll get photos to you, I was able to use the original belt and if memory serves me, its a Gates 6007. Carts.com is an excellent source for belts if you find the original belt is too short or long, they are very experienced with the belts that will fit a Coot, and your belt requirement may be different depending on whether anyone has changed the motor or transmission mounting points on your machine, which people like to do.
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http://www.6x6world.com/gallery/othe...t-clutch.html][/url]
This is what the torque sensitive clutch looks like. I highly recommend it.
Last edited by Noel Woods; 03-20-2017 at 09:05 PM.
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