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This be the oil cooler/s I've chose to setup for the transmission and engine.
Here I've got the tranny one resting and you can see the rad above it
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psuqtntvsd.jpg
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2z66qsjf.jpg
situated correctly it's about 1/2" above the top of rad cap...not much at all and is full width of rad, I can use the factory 6 bolt holes on rad you can see in the above images for attaching the cooler
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psrqavuaja.jpg
This little one is for engine and is in front of the large transmission one
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5e8oxbfk.jpg
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psxokojk4i.jpg
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psgdrvwoc9.jpg
And the busy side, with the fan that sucks air through from the other side
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1dtdnrgs.jpg
That would be a good setup IMHO
Thanks for reading
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This be the oil cooler/s I've chose to setup for the transmission and engine.
Here I've got the tranny one resting and you can see the rad above it
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psuqtntvsd.jpg
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2z66qsjf.jpg
situated correctly it's about 1/2" above the top of rad cap...not much at all and is full width of rad, I can use the factory 6 bolt holes on rad you can see in the above images for attaching the cooler
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psrqavuaja.jpg
This little one is for engine and is in front of the large transmission one
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5e8oxbfk.jpg
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psxokojk4i.jpg
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psgdrvwoc9.jpg
And the busy side, with the fan that sucks air through from the other side
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1dtdnrgs.jpg
That would be a good setup IMHO
Thanks for reading
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I have a couple of coolers in stock here so I'm ok.....
That being said, 4 holes drilled and voila...gotterdun
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psqicgbirf.jpg
3 on this side...blue locktite and done
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...ps138lwgrd.jpg
two on this side...one more but I will use that spot to bolt on the engine oil cooler next...not before it gets some mods
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psyvlcrlmj.jpg
as I said just a wee bit over rad cap....so Golden..and I can still remove that cap LOL
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2y9sooti.jpg
So once I have the engine oil cooler and some stand off tubes made up I'll bolt it in place and be done.
That should be all I need for cooling. Now to find my stupid pumps...where the hell did I put them...this shop cleanup is killing me I can't find nuthin!
Time to pick up some 3/8 oil cooler line too so I can plumb this all in.
Thanks for reading
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Good day today with this unit.
Got some essential wiring investigation done. Basically I grabbed the multi meter and went to town on the diesel Ign Switch determining what post does what. I then wrote it down as a wiring diagram so I can follow it later. I also did same with the wires going to/from the VR for the diesel. That leaves me to test the dynamo leads and ensure it's working correctly. If not I may bypass it completely and remove the idler pulley then install a small internally regulated Alternator for more available power for winching and so forth...maybe a small 1500 Watt inverter etc.
Also removed my gauges, and current wires so I can establish new circuits for lights, reverse lamp, 12v port, Glow plug indicator and so on. It all comes down to another REDUX of electrical as the original was bad, mine was better and now the new stuff for diesel setup will be even better.
Cut the dash for the Bilge pump controller so I can install it as well. Still have to acquire two bilge pumps, one for each sides chain wells and then plumb them so they discharge out the sides.
With all that I located my Shureflow pump and now can start to locate fittings and a back flow check valve so I can make the transmission cooler up and running. I doubt the pump will last for hot oil but it's going to work for proof of concept.
Off to exhaust and I cut the current spring over the muffler into two springs, rebent the cut end to a double loop and 90 deg offset and bolted one on one side and couldnt find bolts for the other..doh..tomorrow then that's taken care of too.
There is a bad leak from my LEFT control stick so I am contemplating unhitching it from the lever and then seeing if I can fix the leak in the tub instead of having to undo all the lines and remove the entire control cylinder. I'll take pics of that if I do it in tub and also if I remove it.
One thing, I still need to locate a bung fitting for the return line for fuel, as I picked up some 3/16" ID Tygon fuel line for return line and a fitting to go into the fuel tank. Hope to have that wrapped up soon as well.
Seems to be about all I've done today, so productive but not HUGE movement on it.
Thanks for looking
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Hmm...for testing and demonstrative purposes only...children don't try this at home!
Got the cooler plumbed however it may need a redux...this is for testing and so forth. LET ME say I'm hopeful that this will solve my issues once and for all.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73mg5...ature=youtu.be
That's what I've got done and I"m quite happy with it.
Thanks for looking
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Well attempted to run up the machine today to high RPM's while sitting and the transmission ends up pumping and airating fluid up the vent tube...hmmm...not good.
Blocked the machine up on one side 2", then I let it pump out fluid till it was nearly stopped. This drained out 300ml of fluid. Removed blocks and it's still pumping fluid up vent tube, so now I'm going to increase the vent tube diameter, build a catch can/ vent/reservoir and hopefully get this solved once and for all.
The cooler seems to strip heat off quite well. I'm quite pleased with it so far.
Well I am attempting to see what Amsoil recommends for fluid for this unit, so far ATF is what I've used, but TDH transmission fluid for tractors is an option I am considering.
Catch can to be built tomorrow most likely with some ABS I have floating around here.
Thanks for reading
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Hmm....Throttle works like hot damn!
Well today I did the IED on the six wheeler...that's an Improvised Expansion Tank aka breather/overflow etc
So with some 2 1/2" plastic pipe two caps and another 1/2" fitting I've created a nice little IED as I like to call it.
Here is the jist of it.
ahh...some container goodness
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psckez6zky.jpg
the fed end
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...pskbannntv.jpg
tiny hole at the top for atmospheric vent
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psp3fpzmig.jpg
Plumbed for business.....Oh ya
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...pskhvdkr86.jpg
Installed....LOL don't laugh it works well.
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psa46vcdl5.jpg
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psgcgbestj.jpg
Ah...the I E D label Improvised Expansion Device buwa ha ha ha ha...
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...pstcq6lpml.jpg
And I will be doing a LIL video to show how well the IED works...once I get the next stage taken care of...
Now I'm onto wiring up this beast somewhat, have some plans, got the Main power lead figured out to IGN switch, also running the GP wire, and was smart enough to make a union on it at the engine so when time to pull engine it is pull the plug and voila..engine comes out! Easy Peasy!
Thanks for reading
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Did the trip to Kelowna picked up the JD 1630 with no problem. Used the trailer I installed the winch on...rocks that does!
Onto what I grabbed was 5 rolls of various coloured primary wire in 14 ga two weld in bungs for fuel tank return line...which ever one works best..
While in Kelowna I get a call, Hey Al, Dale here, I dropped my tractor off for service, Oh I'm in Kelowna picking up a tractor and won't be back for a few hours, hope that's not a problem, Nope, Ok I'll get on it when I get back.
So upon return an oil change and some copper washers in the fuel system, a steam clean and done! bout an hour of work, so near 90 bucks with cost of oil/filter.
Alas, here are some pics from wiring yesterday and the new rolls of wire...craptastic price of 8 bucks a roll for 25'
Now this is the product I use to coat crimps before crimping unless I'm doing crimp/solder...also I coat the contacts and threaded terminals as well.
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psmdjhoasb.jpg
Car audio oxygen free, tinned copper wire 8 ga from starter power in, up to the Ign switch. For most of my automotive installs of almost anything, I try to use hi quality materials like this wire and the corresponding fuses and so forth to promote good solid installs, thus that has transferred over to my six wheeler too
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psdjxxjabn.jpg
double insulated spade terminals M/F with spades coated in goop for electrical contacts. Not heat shrink too to support wire further, this is so engine removal is easier to undo GP lead. Look close you see the clamps I use to support wire and fuel lines, just wire in this picture
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...pssvkqqtjc.jpg
GP end of wire
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psuaasflkq.jpg
Now this tub is NON conductive fiberglass, yet I still grommet fuel and electrical LMAO
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...pstrlbmzxr.jpg
Again...for fuel pump electrical lines, now that it's being installed permanently it gets done RIGHT
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...pscbmmwcni.jpg
All the above was yesterdays work.
And the stack of wire I picked up today and I'm pointing to the likely bung candidate for welding into the fuel tank
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psydwq45ob.jpg
So with all the wire, and a BLACK paint marker, and a RED paint marker and a YELLOW and WHITE paint marker, I can make a great harness with proper colouring and tracer colours if needed ;)
Well tomorrow it's finish off the S10 then get back onto my six wheeler so I can drive this damn thing. I'll pump out fuel tank and prep it for removal and welding in the bung.
Enough for now...
Thanks for looking
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More wire strung today, and control panel prepped for install.
So I'm NOT big on cutting wire till all lengths are set in stone, so here I"ve run the leads for the starter in blue, the fuel pump in green and the transmission cooler pump in brown. Leaving the rolls intact until I have the other end setup exactly as I need with eyelets on the ends I can set length, pull back excess and cut/crimp/heatshrink the ends to the correct length. This saves aggravation by either cutting to long of wire and having to trim it or worse, too short and having to add an extension. To me this is the best method bar none....others experiences may differ LOL
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...pson93xnxz.jpg
Here you can see the 8 ga wire with black tape on end protecting it and also the other wires pulled through for the main switch panel I'm using for now. This panel is turning out quite nice and I may even toss on a gauge or two and a couple of warning lights, as well. LOW oil pressure, and CHARGE light as well, as they are stock with the Kubota engine.
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...psayoc1xbs.jpg
I then had company show up and spent too much time chatting and not enough time working. Oh well all good.
Tomorrow I'll be damn near wrapped up and have the electrical mostly completed. I should be able to shall I say, start and run the machine, once again.
Charge system is still up in air as I'm maybe going to get a small case 3G Ford Alt and add it in.
Well thanks for looking
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damn....damn damn damn damn....grrrrrrr
Ran the plastic tubing for the OIL pressure gauge today, removed the oil pressure warning light sender and Low and behold, the sender fits INTO the 1/8" NPT Tee I have, on all three ports, the gauge sending adapter fits too, and so does the 2" long 1/8" nipple.....but does the nipple fit the block...Noooo...NO freaking way I could thread it in.
It appears the threads on the pipe nipple are not cut deep enough or tapered enough, or...OR ...the oil pressure warning sender is some type of metric thread I dunno...just pised off I am.
On a side note, I did however get more wiring completed and I'm glad about that.
I'm thinking tonight I'll pump out the fuel tank so I can remove it and do a more complete job of under the front end wiring and get the bung welded into it for the return line as well.
I'm just working slow on this as I want to do this thing right and once and NOT have to redux this any time soon. Once these wiring and fuel issues are done, the machine will be damn near as NEW, and I want it to perform as new too. NO break downs due to electrical or fuel related issues etc.
Man I'm getting kinda project bummed out...but I keep on keeping on so I can have a useful tool for home, farm, SAR and fun.
Thanks for reading