My Trackster Build

[brushcutter]

Thanks for the info guys. I've got a couple of welding projects I've been putting off in the shop right now. Then I'll be building a few deer stands. Although that would seem like an easy fix Coop, I don't think anything is going to happen with the trackster any time soon. The issue I have with an easy fix is that I have zero faith that it would be a permanent fix and I fully believe that if that were to get it going, it would give me enough security to get 300 yards out in a swamp and the easy fix would only be a trap, it would break and then, there I would be, broke down in a swamp, facing a nightmare of a time getting the beast out and back to the truck, and, of course M A D! I do need a break from it and since it is out of there, the shop is being used for other projects. If it happens that I keep it and since I have ZERO faith in the transmission at this point, as crazy as it may seem, what will happen is; the tracks will come off, the drive shaft, motor, motor mount and transmission will all come out and the transmission will go to Craig to be completely rebuilt. I have cut no corners up to this point and I'll be danged if I'm gonna start now er... whenever I feel like fooling with it again. Yes this move alone will cost me more than the cost of a nice used Max IV, but if the thing stays with me, I am not willing to have it break down, simply because I cheaped out on the build. The reason this thing turned out to infuriate me is not so much the cost, but that I have constantly set dates whereupon I thought it would be ready to ride, only to meet with some other problem. You are right Coop, when I first ordered parts 20+ months ago, Craig told me the lowest priced machine he sells is (was) $31,900. If I do go through with this plan, I will have a basically NEW Marsh Model, which they don't build today, for somewhere around $14,000, not too bad, but more than I had planned.

There is the possibility it will sell, but I doubt it. I have contacted a couple of folks who are interested, but not immediately ready to buy. can't say that I blame them...

[Nikson]

I'm in process of rebuilding one, almost finished with it as well...

Seems like you've done a lot more work thou, considering amount of rust and previous condition it was in... you've done just tremendous amount of work...

Anyways,

Have you had a chance to get the hydrostats to work after all the work? I've gotten stuck on mine - being that it has an air bubble inside, and I'm not able to figure a way to air bleed the system the right way, to get the flow going with the new fluid I've replaced.

In my case, it was all apart mostly, replaced all outer seals, gaskets, o-rings, being that the case - most of the fluids from everywhere was drained during the work. Now that I've got it all assembled (btw it used to run just fine, was drivable prior to me taking it apart).

So - any possible suggestions?

p.s. usually there isnt a financial return on the fact that you restore a machine... but at times - you could find someone who would be very appreciative of work you've put into it... They are unique machines, one of the kind for sure...

[Coop]

Getting the air out can sometimes be a battle. What I have done with success a couple times is to overfill the system. The system is supposed to hold 7 quarts, try putting 9 quarts in it,jack it up so the tracks are off the ground, run it above idle in neutral, see if it primes. If not, move the tee handle slowly back and forth. Usually after doing this a few times, it will prime. Sometimes it can take awhile. Once it primes, check the oil and if it is to full, use a suction gun and draw the excess out the dipstick hole. Of course before doing all this, make sure all your connections are tight on the cooler and the tubes going to the gearbox housing. I don't know what you are using for oil, I use either International Harvester Hytran oil,( my prefered choice), or Ford Type F automatic transmission fluid.

Coop

[Nikson]

wont do any damage to over fill it up to 9qts?

I've got my tracks off at this point, so it would be an easy thing to do.

[Coop]

It won't cause any damage, you're going to adjust to the correct level after the air is bled out anyway.

Coop

[Nikson]

It won't cause any damage, you're going to adjust to the correct level after the air is bled out anyway.

Coop

Thanks for your suggestion... Seems like i've had wrongfully installed one of the PTO shaft covers (upside-down), getting the flow to go in the wrong direction, after putting things in place as needed, things started working as they should...

Going to be taking her out for a test drive tomorrow... See how she does...

[Coop]

Glad you got it working. The machine looks great!

Coop

[brushcutter]

Ok Coop, this is just weird, I went to pull the charge relief cone and it is not there. where the service book says it should be, there is only a 1/8" pipe plug, and after removing it there is only an open hole with nothing in it. Reading on pg 24 the book says if the implement relief valve is not used, the parts are replaced with the charge relief valve parts and the hole is plugged. Since the only hex plug is the one labeled in the book as the implement valve, and there is nothing in the other holes but the plug, then that must be the case here. I read your post about overfilling the transmission and will try that. My thoughts are that since the track has moved intermittently, then the hydro just hasn't primed fully. Thanks for the help, I'll let you know what it does.

[Trackster]

Glad to see you working on it again Gregg. Hopefully it gives in and starts working right for you now!

NYN

[Coop]

Gregg...Well, my Trackster orginally had a snowplow on it, so maybe that is why there was a check valve in mine and not yours. Thinking about it, I think if you overfill the trans it will prime and solve your problem, I do think you have a slow prime issue, and once it primes you'll be ok. Let us know how you make out.

Coop