Just picked up a Scrambler project.

[thebuggyman1]

Basicly the Home Depot motor IS the same as the duromax.......just minor differences. Check things like the pto shaft length, alternator amps, electric/pull start, and cc displacement. The Honda 13hp is 390cc, most 15 and 16's are 420cc, throw on a mikuni or a reworked honda, better air cleaner/ exhaust and you will get 18 or so. Loose the gov., replace the valve springs and you may be pushing 20hp.

The tank on the engine is fine, but if the remote tank is used you will need a pump ($15). The ductwork is to get the heat away from the motor and fresh, cool air to it. You don't want to breathe the exhaust fumes and neither does your engine. I like using sheet aluminum, it is easy to work with, but plastic works too.

[mike d]

Scrambler used 16 hp motors in a few models. You can check out the Super Hunter pics on Rt.6x6 s info bank. Don't buy anything there though. He's got a lot of stuff but he's wicked expensive. I'm going to pick up a duromax 16 for my scrambler as soon as I finish my daughters max 2. Good luck Mike

[98XJSport]

Gotcha, pretty much need to seperate the intake air from the exhaust and keep everything flowing in the direction it should. If that's not enough there are always 12v fans out there.

I think I read somewhere on here that a stock 16 hp had the pulley on the transmission offset. But in looking at the specs of the 2 lifan engine, they are probably the same engine. Same 1in. diameter x 3-31/64 in. L output shaft . Same dimensions as well. 21 in. W x 20.5 in. D x 19.50 in. H. So it really shouldn't matter which I use. If the exhaust isn't pointed right can I modify it or will that hurt performance?

And for anyone that has made wheel adaptors, how thick of a spacer should I use?

[thebuggyman1]

Even if you are happy with the 15-16hp, there are a couple mods you will want to do. That stock muffler is VERY restrictive and will be hard to route the fumes out of the tub. Replace it with a header/remote muffler. The aftermarket air cleaner will also help it breathe much better. Also to meet current emission regs they run the engine very lean. You will want to re-jet the carb. The stock size if I remember right will be approx .036-.037, try a .040 and see how it runs. You dont have to buy the new jets, the small original one can be drilled out. Be careful not to go too big, but if you do fill the hole back in with solder, and redrill.
The 12v fan idea would be hard for a stock alternator to keep up with......check that before you try it.

[Flying Bone]

yes lifan duromax is an off brand motor they use a honda blue print not honda parts so it is a honda knock off=off brand racers do love these motors they r cheap so they build them run the crap out of them and sell them and start over.it is a 50/50 chance to get a good reliable one with that said make your own call.you could do good with it you could waste your time and $ there are better options is all im saying no need to argue over this look at reviews and talk with engine builders. be carfull of the hype.
as far as the charging system goes most small fishing boats 5-10hp have the same charging system and no problems with them and a 12v fan/bilge pump.they dont usually use more than 35-50 watts to run them and thats what those 5-10 hp motors can handle.

[98XJSport]

I'm torn on what kind of money I want to put into this thing at this point, so spending $900 on an engine will have to wait and see. I have a buddy that builds go-kart engines for his kid that races them. He has a 13hp sitting around that has been tuned up a bit so it might be an option as well.

I've got 4 days off, goal is clutches and brakes and repaired, polish up belt pulley that is on the drive axle, drop off the prints for wheel adapters. How think should the wheel adapters be, 1/2"?

[jerseybigfoot]

I'm torn on what kind of money I want to put into this thing at this point, so spending $900 on an engine will have to wait and see. I have a buddy that builds go-kart engines for his kid that races them. He has a 13hp sitting around that has been tuned up a bit so it might be an option as well.

I've got 4 days off, goal is clutches and brakes and repaired, polish up belt pulley that is on the drive axle, drop off the prints for wheel adapters. How think should the wheel adapters be, 1/2"?

You don't need then that heavy. 1/4" is plenty if you are welding them on to the original flanges. The original hubs were probably less than 3/16" If you go with real aggressive tires maybe go up to 3/8" but then you may have to consider reinforcing the original hubs too. I would also consider 420 chain for the drive as it has heaver side plates and fits the sprockets better than the 40. The original chain was 41

[98XJSport]

I was planning on bolting them, driving out the tiny factory bolts and maybe drilling them out a tiny bit to get in a bigger bolt. I would weld but my luck it would pull and warp. I can stick metal together but not well enough on things like this.

[98XJSport]

Soo I got things all torn down. I'm going to reline the clutches myself will be picking up the material in the next day or 2. BUT I have a problem. I broke one of the diamond shaped pieces that the rollpins go through, there is one on each side it is shaped similar to the brake piece but it is smaller and has the first pair of roll pins you would have to remove to dissassemble. Anyone got one they would be willing to sell? It's white metal, so I can't weld it. If I can't find one the project will be dead in the water.

[98XJSport]

Ok, I'm moving forward despite the broken part. I got all the old clutch pieces cleaned off, and surfaces cleaned up. There is some slight pitting, but I don't think I will need them fully tuned down. It will be easy to take apart next time if I do end up needing to turn them down.

Next question: The old clutch was small squares attached all the way around the disc. Do I have to do it like that, or can I use a solid ring of clutch material instead?