Hey folks.
I?m putting a new engine in my conquest and can?t find in the manual info on the offset/ belt deflection, distance etc.
If anyone has any of this info please let me know!
Engine going in is a Honda gx690. :)
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Hey folks.
I?m putting a new engine in my conquest and can?t find in the manual info on the offset/ belt deflection, distance etc.
If anyone has any of this info please let me know!
Engine going in is a Honda gx690. :)
So far I have been able to find the C/C distance is supposed to be 15.35". Still no luck on offset. I found one picture/ diagram that said 3/16-5/16 offset however i'm not sure if that was for a conquest of other...
If anyone has this info please chime in :)
Greatly appreciated.
Engine went in yesterday. Since nobody have responded i'll fill in the blanks to so this thread may be helpful to anyone else in the future.
I contacted argo support and they were... unhelpful. They said and I quote "we no longer have that info, but 3/16in. sounds about right". Awesome. Keep in mind the machine is a 2000 Conquest, not 1970's. Awesome after sales support from a brand that sells $30k bathtubs.
Once the engine is on the mounting plate there is basically room for it to twist but minimal x/y axis movement. Shoved all the way over I was only able to get about 3/16" offset. This may be different with the stock engine, but that's what I got with the Honda 690+the stock shaft spacer. At this point I got a strait edge and lined it up with the secondary. done.
Clutch center/center distance is a hair under 16". Stock is as mentioned above 15.35".
The Subaru Eh72 that I am replacing had a Dayco HPX5016 (52.5"outside circumference). Since the Honda has the same dimentions i'll be replacing that belt with a slightly longer Ultimax pro 138-5232U2 (53.3"outside circumference, 1-7/16 width), stock belt for the record is 1 7/16" width and 52 1/8"
Dayco belt felt tight so i'm trying the other belt. I'll report back once I get it running with the new belt.
If I remember right in general the offset is 5/16 based off the salsisbury information on the home page.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric18
Now to start out i do not recommend my method at all can be some what risky and dangerous but works for me i have many alignment bars for snowmobiles for pulley offset none of which will help on my Argo Avenger classic trans so my hilljack method i have used for years and get extremely long belt life i pull all shims off the tranny input shaft as well as the drive key install the secondary securing bolt with enough spacers to get some float of the secondary now here is where extreme caution is needed or don't do this at all if you do not feel comfortable, with the secondary unable to drive the trans input shaft i lock the brakes with the firewall out and run up the engine the secondary free spinning finds its placement on the shaft at medium throttle i mark it with a long sharpie and shut down disassemble add shims minus 40 ish thou and set it up so it still has some float by shimming out the securing bolt i have never had belt issues and only use oem hd belts one thing i did not mention was first setting a straight edge in between the secondary sheaves and long enough to cover the diameter of the primary and measure for squareness of the engine to transmission.Cheers NCT