Running the Attex today and had a sudden loss of power. Engine will not idle, very hard to start, and has a deeper note to the exhaust. I found what I think is the main seal to the output shaft in the tub. I believe the main seal would cause this??? If so I need a part number for the seal and some info on changing it. Is it as simple as pulling the clutch and then the 4 bolts around the output shaft?
Thanks, Mike CJ-ATE
Last edited by cj-ate; 05-20-2009 at 06:37 PM.
Try here.
711157 - Xenoah Engine Gasket Set
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Hey, Mike;
I can't tell what it is for sure, but unless the circle is broken someplace, I can't see how a crank seal would get around the clutch and be in the tub. Changing the seal on that end of the engine is pretty simple- about like you said. You'll need the gasket that goes under the flange as well as the new seal. Make sure the bore that the seal goes into is real clean and the new seal's in straight. You may have to shine up the sealing surface with some fine emery cloth, making sure you don't get the abrasive in the bearing. Lube the seal and the crank with grease or pre-lube when you install the flange/seal.
Good Luck.
Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.
(6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far
Mike, Take your time. You've got till Saturday.
Whipper
Don, the seal ring is broken. Should it have a spring inside the rubber? If so that is still around the shaft. Am I correct in assuming that the seal would create the engine problems I am having, or could it be one of those ignition problems I have heard of? I'm not sure if I can find the parts locally, or the time to get it running before Saturday (Whipper).
Mike
CJ, If you Loose your Crank Seal the motor will suck in air on that side, It'll run real lean, not idle, etc. Yea, there is a thin coil spring on the inside of the seal to keep a tight fit on the shaft. As long as you didn't run it much like this you hopefully didn't damage anything else. I would pull the exhaust and look in the cylinder for any serious scoring and turn till you can see the piston/rings and look for signs of damage, there may be scuff marks that can be seen but not felt, just nothing deep. If someone has one at Ashtabula, I see no reason why you can't get it going on-site. Good luck, hope to see you (In the videos) soon.
Attex 295 Wild Wolf:My Runner
Attex 252? Colt? Racer 80%: My Racer to be..... SOMEDAY
Attex Super Chief - Sold.
The G50b in my RIM did the same thing. Fist thing I did was take and spray ether down at the crank seals with the engine running. Knew they were bad when the engine revved out of control. I bet you fix that seal and it will run fine.Originally Posted by cj-ate
If you can't find the stuff in time, bring the machine anyway- I'll bring the parts.
Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.
(6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far
Engine and T-20 are out of the machine. Any trick to removing the primary clutch? Do I need a special tool? I was able to remove the 3/4" bolt fairly easy.
Also a BIG THANKS to all offering help.
Mike
I have a clutch puller cj-ate. If it's the original clutch, we can pull it there.
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