argo response tranny problems.

[muddoctor]

Just bought a response, that has 61 hrs, and blown head gasket on motor. Put motor back in..with engine running i can not shift into gear. a lot of metal on metal grinding noise. with engine off, shifts easy. I can start in gear, and runs fine..but cant change gears without the grinding. checked tranny oil. level correct, but its milky, assume it took on water like the engine did. engine is briggs vanguard. Any ideas? thanks.

[racerone3]

if the trany input shaft is turning at all when you try to put it into gear, it will grind. try lowering your idle. you might also need to replace the belt. if you can get to where the input shaft is turning only a little bit, try putting the trany in reverse first, then move quickly to a forward gear. they seem not to grind nearly as bad going to reverse.

[muddoctor]

the idle seems to be about as low as i can make it. often the engine dies at idle. I will try slowing it a bit more. I notice the flywheel? does continue to spin, even in neutral. Should it be spinning in idle?

[trebmaster]

[quote= Should it be spinning in idle?[/quote]

no

[racerone3]

you don't want the trany clutch to spin at idle although it usually will a little bit in neutral. you can spray the inside of the belt with some belt dressing, or silicone spray. that will allow it to slip enough to stop the trany input shaft. go ahead and change your trany fluid. it should take 75/90 gear oil. get it warm before changing the fluid... it will drain out a lot easier

[muddoctor]

sorry..clutch.The belt doesnt seem too tight, hard for me to know i guess, since this is my first AATV.I dont see there is any adjustment for belt tension, assume that is factory set.Do i need to spray lube the clutch? is it not opening up enough to allow belt to slip in neutral?

[muddoctor]

Ive done all those things, but pulley continues to spin. Idle set just above engine dying speed. I have examined the spring. Does the point on the end of the spring have a hole that it goes in? It would seem it should to keep spring from rotating?Should the inner part of the clutch move towards the tranny, to lessen pressure on the belt? it doesnt seem the outer part can move. Thanks for any help

[Roger S]

The ends of the trans clutch spring do go in anchor holes in each clutch half, and it has some twist preload when assembled. There's some shims between the halves that set how close the halves come together. Thats the only thing to adjust as far as belt tension and usually never adjusted. Unless shims were removed and made the belt too tight, there's nothing to cause your problem in that unit. My belt's loose enough to roll off and on over the trans clutch pretty easily.

The engine clutch.. with engine off or idling, it should be open enough for the belt to have nearly a 1/4" side play between the halves.

[Bw6]

I think I posted this info before, but here it is again. As we all know if the engine rpm is too high when you try to shift into gear it will grind. People have used various work around solutions to avoid the grinding but maybe not too many people know that Argo uses CV Tech (driver/driven clutches)
They are based in Quebec, Canada.

These guys can supply a driven clutch with a type of bearing (steel bushing) that is mounted on the driver (engine clutch) and the belt rides on top of this bearing. So a fast idle is no longer a problem. The belt does not move therefore the input shaft on the transmission does not turn, so it will shift into gear without grinding.

I don't know if you can retro-fit this bearing on your driven clutch, but I have this arrangement on my Hoot and it works great. Funny because the Hoot doesn't have any gears to grind, but its there anyways, lol.

There website doesn't show a lot of detail, however they are pretty helpful on the phone. Here is the link: CVTech-IBC - - Poulies motrices

[philipatmaxfour]

Thanks BW6, You are a very helpful guy.