Swamp Tracks

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Thread: Swamp Tracks

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Casselberry, FL
    Posts
    2

    Swamp Tracks

    Bought a lakefront house in Florida 2 years ago. Lake was hundreds of yards thru swamp and couldn't get to it. Spent last year clearing a trail through thick vegetation and muck so thick you'd sink in it. Got a new 2021 Argo Frontier 650 8x8 fitted with Beaver Dam tracks--they just go through anything down here in muck and the swamps...just can't get stuck no matter how hard I try or which mud bath or trail I take! Works well in lake too. Only way I can get to my lake--the bass, snakes, gators, and coyotes are not impressed....I go everywhere!
    For me, Priceless!!!
    Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Wasilla, AK
    Posts
    923
    looks fun, a few questions for all
    What was your track cost for a frontier 8x8 with 10”wide tires?
    What thickness/ply and width are belts?
    Is it full steel, full plastic, or hybrid, and what type of plastic (uhmw?), plastic thickness? UV-stabilized plastic?
    I helped a gentleman up here who had a set of those and who had broken a couple grousers. So I am curious what the current specs are on those tracks.
    Also, if I was you, I would consider orienting your middle tires to the “swim” position when in track mode (reversble rims). It may require swapping from left to right. And lower your air pressure on middle tires to around 1-1.5 lbs.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    shenendoah valley,va.
    Posts
    2,640
    great news ...nothing like having a go anywhere machine . have fun !! j.b.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Eastern PA
    Posts
    262
    Quote Originally Posted by Buzz View Post
    looks fun, a few questions for all
    What was your track cost for a frontier 8x8 with 10”wide tires?
    What thickness/ply and width are belts?
    Is it full steel, full plastic, or hybrid, and what type of plastic (uhmw?), plastic thickness? UV-stabilized plastic?
    I helped a gentleman up here who had a set of those and who had broken a couple grousers. So I am curious what the current specs are on those tracks.
    Also, if I was you, I would consider orienting your middle tires to the “swim” position when in track mode (reversble rims). It may require swapping from left to right. And lower your air pressure on middle tires to around 1-1.5 lbs.
    I was curious myself and just looked on the Beaver dam website.They do provide quite a bit of info on their tracks.
    Last edited by onlyonce; 04-09-2021 at 06:44 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Savannah, Georgia
    Posts
    1,822
    Those tracks look bad to the bone!! I would like to know how well they swim. I would love to see them run in swamp conditions. I have been around Adair tracked machines for years but I have never had the opportunity to see beaver dam tracks in action.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Wasilla, AK
    Posts
    923
    I’ll start by apologizing for hijacking the thread a bit, but you’ll see why.

    [QUOTE=onlyonce;237716]I was curious myself and just looked on the Beaver dam website.They do provide quite a bit of info on their tracks.[/QUOTE

    True, but everyone’s website or dealer description always looks and sounds fantastic. I always ask, “compared to what” after I read them most times. Many are conveniently vague and usually don’t answer this “compared to what” question.
    This is why I want to know what type of plastic Beaver Dam Argo tracks use (or anyone for that matter). One fellow had steel plate bolted on either side of a couple grousers (to splint broken grousers). I included a pic of one of these broken beaver dam track grousers that I am curious about. I have seen broken tire guides countless times on Argo factory rubber tracks/torn factory rubber track hinges, broken Adair grousers/tire guides (w/sheared screws), broken beaver dam grousers, bent and broken steel bar channel grousers, and badly bent (but not broken) Escargo steel grousers.
    I have yet to see anyone break a proper monolithic-style uhmw grousers, I think simply because there are no thin spots that have been machined away and put back together and no windows/pockets machined into the grouser that leave less material to bolt through. Thick (1-1/2”), solid UHMW in all directions, full thickness through bolts. After all you are only as strong/dependable as your weakest link. Many folks and many conditions might not require this level of durability. Nothing is perfect mind you, and I always say, “any track is better than no track in many conditions.”. It’s the other conditions where comparisons become more important.
    These Pics are of a beaver dam hybrid track in Alaska. Not trying to be mean, just honest.
    Again, Apologies for hijacking. And can I just say the auto-correct spelling is horrible in the posting window��
    Attached Images
    Last edited by Buzz; 04-14-2021 at 04:10 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Savannah, Georgia
    Posts
    1,822
    Buzz, I truly appreciate your input, but I would really like to see some pictures of what you consider an optimal design. I am always ready to try something better if it works better. Pictures please?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Wasilla, AK
    Posts
    923
    We can agree that the most optimal design depends on what conditions you are faced with and what you need your machine to do. One particular track may work great for one person while the next person needs something completely different. It’s not appropriate for me to be posting pictures of what I build as “optimal” for everyone. I will only say that a few things really do matter in conditions like we have in Alaska:
    *Smallest contact patch (shape) grouser with extra wide belts lifted off ground
    *full tire width clean out between belts
    *Fixed position guides that cannot move
    *Heavy duty overlap joint (Easy install design)
    *Full thickness through-bolts
    *Super tough materials

    Many people have built versions like this before with narrower belt widths, grouser thicknesses, screws vs bolts, traction add-ons, etc.

    It is very labor intensive. To do it correctly, even moreso.

    Other track designs may be totally sufficient for many folks, and that’s great. Once in awhile I can’t help but share information that track builders won’t necessarily tell you (or may not be aware even happened) with their products in Alaska.
    Any track is better than no track, and many people’s experience is limited to what they read.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Fort McMurray, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    178
    Quote Originally Posted by Buzz View Post
    looks fun, a few questions for all
    What was your track cost for a frontier 8x8 with 10”wide tires?
    What thickness/ply and width are belts?
    Is it full steel, full plastic, or hybrid, and what type of plastic (uhmw?), plastic thickness? UV-stabilized plastic?
    I helped a gentleman up here who had a set of those and who had broken a couple grousers. So I am curious what the current specs are on those tracks.
    Also, if I was you, I would consider orienting your middle tires to the “swim” position when in track mode (reversble rims). It may require swapping from left to right. And lower your air pressure on middle tires to around 1-1.5 lbs.
    Hey Buzz, good to still see you around from time to time!
    I keep my middle tires low but I did find after a couple thousand kms it does cause the sidewalls to wear faster then the corners. Not a big deal but something to keep in mind. I seem to wear my tires out before the tread does from this effect with my Escargo tracks. I've had to run tubes in the middle tires at least too cause the sidewalls are so weak. May upgrade to ITP MudLites or any other tire you might have a suggestion for price and 6 ply rating.
    Gavin

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Savannah, Georgia
    Posts
    1,822
    Quote Originally Posted by Sparx View Post
    Hey Buzz, good to still see you around from time to time!
    I keep my middle tires low but I did find after a couple thousand kms it does cause the sidewalls to wear faster then the corners. Not a big deal but something to keep in mind. I seem to wear my tires out before the tread does from this effect with my Escargo tracks. I've had to run tubes in the middle tires at least too cause the sidewalls are so weak. May upgrade to ITP MudLites or any other tire you might have a suggestion for price and 6 ply rating.
    Gavin
    Are you running track Tuners on your middle tires?

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