Lewis is the transmission the only major difference between the 06 and the 2011?
Lewis is the transmission the only major difference between the 06 and the 2011?
No but it is one of the major items. The axle bearings and housing carriers are much more robust and the axle hubs are larger.
There are more difference but mostly cosmetic. Dash, digital read out, hydraulic hand breaks, thicker seat cushion, quieter engine, neutral switch, headlight to body attachments, hand break(not a great location), heavy duty floor pans. No Jackshafts. The 11's have a telescoping shaft that attaches to the trans to take the place of the jackshaft. The tires are the AT 189.
lewis, As you know the'' more robust' axle hubs have a single grease nipple that you can grease without removing the wheel or the tracks if you have them on. That alone would be worth more to me on my 2007 Avenger than all of the fancy speedometers and guages but I could use the parking brake. Congrats on your new one.
Yes, and thanks. You are correct, forgot to mention that point. Since there are no lip seals the second grease point is not needed. This is a mod that can be done to your 07, i had though about doing it to the 06. The park brake takes a little getting adjusted to. Being that i am only 5'10'' , Never pull the park break up prior to trying to exit the driver side. I generally get out of the machine first then set the brake. One exit and you will understand.
Here is the difference in bearings and axles.
As you can see there is not much difference appearance wise except the hood scoop between the 06 and 11.
Lewis,
Is greasing the bearings through the Hub as much of a PITA as I've been told? I've never done it, but have been told several times that it's not as easy as it sounds, as far as getting the hole to line up with the grease nipple, finding or having to make a long/ridged outlet line for a grease gun to reach the nipple (One guy told me he slides a piece of tubing on the "flex line" of his gun), not being able to tell if the grease is getting in or bleeding out around the fitting and the nipple, ect. I can't believe it's that big of a deal, but.............
I was going to drill the hubs on my Conquest to grease my bearings (I have upgradedd to the HD bearing assemblies), but was talked out of it.
RD
Greasing the bearings is not a big deal at all. I tried it through the holes in the wheels with a grease gun extension that I beefed up with exterior metal tubing and it worked OK. There is also room to work from the side of the tires if you have a pivoting fitting on your grease gun hose.
Most of the good points have been covered in previous threads.
Just a few more facts to add.
Extended use of low range is not recommended, this can cause excessive heat build up and can cause many issues. In fact Argo only recommends the use of low gear in tight turning scenarios. Hi gear is recommended for steep hills and towing. (This really shouldn't be called Hi and Low, it's more like slip vs. non slip differential)
Another fact that most people don’t realize is that the Admiral is available in 3 different Gear Ratios. Standard in 2012 models is the 6.4, there is a Low torque version that is 8.4 and usually runs about 30% lower in speed. On the positive side if you are towing allot or you are up and down the hills, this will perform better and be less strain on the drive train. The 6 x 6 HD use the 7.3 version; it’s a slightly lower torque then the standard 8 x 8 HD due to the decrease in power from the engine.
It’s also recommended to use low gear in water. In low gear when turning the opposite tires do not lock up, in fact the turn backwards giving you better maneuverability.
I also know of guys who use full synthetic oils in the Admiral, because the triple differential takes allot of power to work, this increases operating temperatures. Guys I know that run Synthetic say the Trans run's about 20% cooler.
Just some new fact for those of you who are interested.
Mudman