Bandolero, is there any down side?

[twinlakemike]

I am looking at installing a Bandolero in my argo. Is there any down side to running this motor in a AATV? Do you have to run racing gas, do they have any cooling issues, do they have a charging system and what size is it? Do they have good low end power? I like the idea of being able to run the transmission in low but still be able to turn some RPMs when the mud calls for extra tire speed.

[Surfer Dude]

If you use the search you can find some very good info on these engines. Go to forums and just type in "bandolero"

http://www.6x6world.com/forums/engin...7-new-cam.html

According to the thread I just posted most of the guys running the bando motors are running AV Gas or 110 octane. So that seems to be the only downfall, but hopefully you can get it close by to you. I am actually looking into a bandelero motor for myself so I've read all the posts pertaining to it. Stock clutches can be used from what i've read as long as your clutch is a 1" keyed shaft not tapered. I've read that most of the guys have not had issues with overheating and especially seeing as your from michigan I don't see you having a problem either. Whipperag and Modelcitizen live in dessert part of the country and beat the snot out of these in there heat for hours on end. The do have a charging system but I am unaware as to what size system is all...... One of the guys that actually are already using this engine will chime in as soon as they wake up today i'm sure. And I will tell you what. I have yet to hear anyone disatisfied with there purchase of one of these motors. Good luck to you and i hope i've helped you make your decision

[Tomo]

hi
Using 98 octane fuel all is ok
Remember the badolero series use a rolling start there fore standing starts may cause ping/pre ignition knock depending upon conditions .
The briggs 2 barrel carb can give issues although the reference for this is the local mini digger dealer . They have many discounted replacements in stock
The replacement 32mm carb and adapter from Performance v twins
PVT use a "standard " Mikuni carb , the best carb is a Mikuni VM 33 accelerator pump type

Point of note
The valve springs are better than stock but the racers replace them often . It is recommended if u use the engine at max or near full throttle a lot the springs should be replaced every so often .
For this reason I suggest u use there rev limiter that Bando/600 racing sell as an optional part.
Remember that the standard conrod is used . The standard rods do have a ""shelf life ""and as u would expect are not fail safe long term .


tomo

[George]

I'm running a Bando part-time in my racer. I started to run a little hot on the track (Ashtabula) after about 5 minutes this September (wide open the whole time).

I took it on one 66 mile ride (12 hours of riding) in Arizona this spring. I had no issues at all.

The plan is to put an oil cooler on the engine for those times I want to go 45 mph for extended periods of time.

I was using AV gas in AZ and 98 octane on the track.

[Mike]

I have three of them, two that I have run a good bit and one new one waiting to go in my Argo. I run standard, high octane automotive fuel without any issues. I have one in a Max II which has a closed body. It has a fresh air intake duct and I haven't had any problems with overheating here in NC. They really run no differently than the 16,18, 20HP motors, they just have a little more HP.

Tomo makes some really good points. Let me add my experience with the motors to that:

With my first motor, I was concerned about over-revving it. I installed a tach and purchased the Bandolero rev limiter but it was pointless. You will never get to the redline unless you rev the motor really high in neutral or try to reach top speed of your machine. The clutches prevent you from over-revving during normal operation. You can hold full throttle and not worry about a thing. When you try to reach top speed, you get to the peak of the power curve and then only gradually pick up speed. You will know it by the way the machine stops accelerating so quickly and you will know to back off. The only time I ever felt that I was getting close to over-revving the motor was at Ashtabula on the track going down the straight-away.

I think the motor is a decent replacement for a stock Briggs without spending much more than a stock motor costs. The only downside is probably the torque curve. You really aren't gaining much in the torque department compared to a stock motor but the higher HP and high revs make up for that. I haven't experienced any issues with knocking at low RPMs and the motor pulls strong for me from a standing stop. Overall I have been happy with the motors but I have also run them in light(ish) machines that typically are fine when powered by 18HP motors. With my Argo that is still being built, I have geared it down to hopefully work within the motor's powerband. Then again, I have replaced the transmission and no longer have a low gear so you should be fine with stock gearing on your machine.

If you decide to get one, I don't think you will be disappointed. Just make sure you explore any other options and decide what's best for you. There are higher HP motors available from builders like Al Hodge (Performance V-Twins) for more money. That's the motors that members like Whipper-AG, WFO, jerseybigfoot, etc are running in their machines. Just wanted to point out another option for you if you haven't already seen them. You may want to call and see what Al can build for you before you make your decision.

[Tomo]

Hi to all
When the kids and I are sliding drifting in the mud figure eights etc all six wheels are spinning hard mud every where [there is nothing better] occasionally the engine touches the rev limiter and can always reach the limiter along the 45 min beach runs . On long beach runs I use 70 90 % throttle .
The later rev limiters are slow when in operation forcing u to back of so it can reset ,u learn to use only 95%
Even though I purchased a tacho I did not use it and depend on the rev limiter to inform me of the full throttle point

Oil either straight 30W very little consumption or a 10w/40 .
Change straight 30w often as it will most likely be a mineral . This will prevent using the deteriated oil in your engine
EG 10/40 semi synthetic after at least 100 hrs break in
The 10/40 will pump a lot better thru an oil cooled system also
The 10/40 takes a lot less time to pressurize the oil system than any thicker oil .The difference is huge

As Mike states not a huge toque gain over stock and there are other motors with more torque etc but the extra revs and hp do make it way more enjoyable than a stock 18hp .IMO way more suitable for a 6x6 .It makes a stock motor appear boring .

tomo