Originally Posted by
Buzz
My advice would be to build the channel tracks as you'll be able to use them in more conditions. Put your nose to the grindstone and start hammering them out. Just make sure that you get the crossers identical the best you can. If you have a problem doing this, just strike layout lines on your rubber belting ( like to use a white paint pen....every 4 or 5 inches perpendicular to the belt edge). Then when you get a crosser done and drilled.....lay it on the next white line and adjust the guide portions so they're symmetrical....and mark the white line (through the drilled holes in the crosser belt surface) with a sharpie so you can see it on the white line. It will be slower this way, but you won't battle inconsistencies in crosser dimensions and holes matching up with pre-drilled holes in the rubber. Sometimes I buy belting pre-cut if it's in 4, 5, o 6 inch widths. Other times I'll buy a wide roll...like 20 or 30 inches wide and cut it to desired widths. I would use whatever ply you can find the best deal on (in a remnant if possible). I shoot to find 20' sections, which leaves some leftover. If you're going with a hinge, you can get away with 18' at the absolute minimum for each inner and outer belt. For a given ply, adding width adds significant strength similar to adding additional thickness. You're only as strong as your hinge or overlap can hold though....which is still pretty freaking strong. Have fun!