Help with clutch adjustment and identification on Coot

[allwheeldrive]

If the movable face moves in at idle the clutch is wrong. If it truss to crawl when cranking the belt is to tight. I see several belts listed in the 42.5-44" Carlisle spec sheets. The max series belts are measures to the top width and do not taper to the edge. I run belts run them from widths listed as 1-5/32-1 7/32 top width. Also put a tacometer on engine and slowly raise speed until you see the movable face of the clutch jump in. Usually 1200-1700 rpm is in the ballpark. Then call Don Jackson 608-774-0481
He can tell you what weights and springs make up any engagement speed you want. He is at Certified Parts Corp. the company that now produces comet products. Hope this helps.http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/beltdimensions.pdf
Check out Max3 dimensions, I see the top widths have gone away from 32 of inch from my old chart.

Thanks for the link and info, I'll look into it once I figure out how to take this thing fully apart.

[dirtdobber]

That red spring you saw is in the driven clutch, not the drive clutch. You are working on the drive clutch.

[allwheeldrive]

OHHHH! that makes sense now

Though now I'm not sure if I should just put the clutch back together and try a bigger belt. It stinks I have no room for adjustable as it is, the coot's tub has been bent and cut to fit the engine from side to side. And it seems like 1/2" of belt makes a huge difference in tightness. 52" = a full FOOT of deflection, 49" = 1/2" of deflection. I might be able to get by with a 50-51" belt, you mentioned you can run belts from 1.156" to 1.218 wide. I'd think the wider would engage faster. Or maybe the difference is so minute it doesn't matter? The list of belts provided seems lack anything between 48-and 51 less than 1.4" wide so maybe this isn't an option after all.

Am I right to think a belt of this design will not work? With the grooves facing length wise? https://www.amazon.com/Gates-500L6-M.../dp/B00CJKB6X4

[wedge]

That is a Serp belt NOT a CVT belt .
You need a Belt for a Snowmobile .

[dirtdobber]

Allwheel, look at the chart about 6 pages into this document. http://forums.bajasae.net/forum/uplo...TY_CATALOG.pdf

This gives you the required CD (center to center distance - crankshaft to transmission input shaft) and related belt part number, all based on the type of clutch configuration you have. To get the correct belt tension, you have to get pretty close to these dimensions, because there aren't a whole lot of options when it comes to belt lengths.

[msafi65]

Dirtdober's post also has the weight and spring chart I've bee looking for. Thanks.

[ARGOJIM]

That is a Serp belt NOT a CVT belt .
You need a Belt for a Snowmobile .

It also looks like though you currently have a variable speed belt that the angle and depth of the belt may be small like some goodyear equipment belts.

[allwheeldrive]

As an update. I re-positioned my engine, it’s now moved over 5/8” Which isn’t much but I figured it be better than nothing and I knew how not moving it worked (not good). So I bought another new belt this time a direct replacement for the Coot’s original. With the Engine moved over 5/8” It makes the belt essentially 1.25” shorter than the original and about 1” longer than the short belt I bought. So I’m pretty much right in the middle of correct length and too short.

Now I have a heck of a time getting the RPM’s down enough to change gears. BUT it’s do-able. Could not with the short belt at all. The problem is I’m still slipping in 2nd and reverse just like before. When in first gear I haven’t noticed any slip where before it did (original belt / original engine position.) So that’s better… but still unacceptable.

I swear the worst thing about working on machines like these is there is no consistency. Which makes problem solving almost impossible.
For some non-apparent reason now my engine Ideals maybe 100RPM higher than before. I know this because before I needed to use two Popsicle sticks wedged behind the throttle lever to keep the engine happy and not stalling. It was nice because when in use I could just let off the gas without the Popsicle sticks and drop the rpm low enough for smooth gear changes. Now the machine maintains that RPM with no spacers and is likely contributing to the much harder gear changes.

But wait there’s more. My transmission seems to be MUCH harder to physically get into gear. And it pops out of 2nd while driving around like if I go over bumps. Which is never did before. I don’t understand how moving the engine has made the gear shifts harder and the RPM increase.

I had a theory. Which was the engine is moved back (not to the left) but back about ¼ of an inch. This was unintentional just a byproduct of trying to drill out new holes threw 3 layers of steel plate and not getting them all perfectly aligned. Perhaps the ¼” of back travel has changed the resting position of the idea throttle (due to the fact the cable is pulled ¼” further to increase ,my base RPM)

Now that also means my primary and 2ndary clutch are no longer in perfect alignment. With the engine clutch ¼” back from the driven clutch. Both clutches are perfectly parallel, just offset. I know that isn’t idea,l but I didn’t think it was a deal breaker. If I get 50% less belt life I’d be fine… seeing as that would still be many more hours than I have ever driven this thing.

The question is having the belt misaligned that little, could that somehow cause friction in the transmission and make it physically hard to throw the shiftier forwards and back as well as popping it out of gear? I’d think not, but what else has changed since I last drove it? Nothing.
I’m now wondering if I should try and pull out the driven clutch and really rough up the surface to get more bite. It’s driving me nuts that there are CVTs on Polaris SxS that can handle 140 HP and I can’t manage to get my CVT to transmit 9.