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The 27HP engine is in, and everything looks good. Sounds AWESOME, but I still have a little problem.
The engine will not shut off. I have to put my hand over the air intake, or Choke it off.
I guess the damn thing just wants to run
I even tried to pull the wires off the back of the plug, and it still keeps running.
Anyone know what it is that is actually supposed to cause the engine to die when the key is turned off. Cause whatever it is don't seem to be happening
RD
PS. Started the engine swap this morning, at about 9:30, and finished everything up by about 5:00, but we have this little issue.
I don't have any experience with the Kawasaki motors at all but typically you have to ground out the ignition module(s). It sounds like you may not have a wire hooked up properly or there is a damaged connection somewhere. On Briggs motors, the kill circuit has two diodes that will sometimes get damaged if the motor is wired incorrectly. They are always a headache to diagnose for the owners.
Start by looking around the ignition modules near the flywheel / stator and see if they have a connection coming from them. One will obviously be hardwired to the spark plug but the other connection should be your ground wire.
Edit: Look at page 96 of that manual from Beaver Dam that I linked to above, it shows an example of what I was trying to describe.
Last edited by Mike; 03-13-2011 at 12:39 AM.
Reason: added some additional info
If you can't find what you need let me know. I do have the Kaw. engine manual for the 20hp. I can scan the engine electrical diagram & get it to you. I could probably get a hold of the 27hp if you need some particular. That's one of that advantages to having a landscape business & being in good with my mower dealer. They usually loan me service manuals if I need one. - Ozzy
Anyway, got the engine to stop with the key. TKS Mike
Now on tho the next problem. I may have toasted the Voltage Reg. The only thing that the Voltage Reg does on this engine is:
One wire Operates the Fuel Kill Solinoid- NO Problem, I have it removed, I hate those things.
One wire Operates the LOW Voltage Light- No Problem, I don't need that right now.
One wire goes to ground- No problem, it's grounded.
2 wires come from the Charging Coil. I'm getting 7V from each of these through the meter to ground. So each of these should be putting 7V to the Voltage Reg.
One wire should Supply 12V Power out to charge Battery- PROBLEM, I am not getting any voltage out of the Voltage Reg.
You have to be careful because the stator should be putting out AC current. If you connect your ammeter (in AC mode) to both pins coming from the stator to the regulator, Kawasaki says you should be getting a minimum of 26V (again, AC) at 3000 RPM. I would start there and see what you are getting. If you are not getting AC voltage of at least 26V, I would trace the wires back to the stator and see if there is a diode or resistor in line anywhere that is damaged or burnt. Testing to ground could have toasted a diode if you have one (that wiring diagram on page 96 is not showing anything though)
Hi Mike,
I'm getting power (26V at 3000RPM), to the Voltage Reg, from the Stator. I'm NOT getting anything out of the Voltage Reg at what should be 12V. This 12V pin does NOTHING but conect back to the + on the battery. I'm assuming that this 12 Pin is what should be feeding power back to keep the battery charged up?
There is nothing else.
2 conectors from the Stator
1 Positive (This is a direct line to the + on the battery)
1 Ground (This pin runs to ground)
1 key switch on Power (Key on should feed 12V to this pin) (This line also feeds 12V power to the Fuel Solinoid)
1 Low Voltage Indicator (Light) This pin should cause the Low V light to come on in a low V condition.
You are correct, it should be supplying the battery with current until the regulator determines that the battery voltage has reached the preset level. Then it should be supplying nothing. You should test the regulator output with it connected to a battery. If you are connected to the battery and still seeing nothing coming from the regulator then it should probably be replaced. As a side note, if you have a new or newer battery that is fully charged, your regulator may only kick on for a short amount of time since the battery will reach full voltage quickly. You may want to turn your lights on for a little bit first if this is the case.
. Cause whatever it is don't seem to be happening
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