Help my Mudd-Ox sunk!

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Thread: Help my Mudd-Ox sunk!

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Charlotte, Mi/ Houghton Lake Mi
    Posts
    2,910
    Amphibs don't sink.......OK, sometimes they float upside-down
    Last edited by thebuggyman1; 04-27-2012 at 10:15 PM. Reason: BTW: that is MattO in the green shirt.....maybe he is jinxed

  2. #12
    I would remove the chains from both drive motors. It should roll easy.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    I live in Shreveport,,Louisiana
    Posts
    3,285
    The Mudd-Ox has a V bottom tub and this is an advantage over a flat bottom tub because it helps channel the mud much better when driving forward or backwards. The V-bottom tub becomes a negative though when floating in deep water with tires and even more so with tracks. In deeper water this is where a flat bottom tub has an advantage over a V-Bottom tub because it makes the tub float higher out of the water.


    In this video I'm driving forward and straight ahead of me you'll see a raised mound of dirt above the water line. Because the Mudd-Ox has a V-bottom tub it floats really low in the water and any sudden angle changes on either side of the tub will cause water to pour over the side closest to the water line. I had a friend riding next to me in the front seat and as we drove over the raised mound of dirt the angle of the terrain and water line changed very quickly. When this happened the tub started leaning towards the left side. Water then began pouring in. I then had the choice of driving slowly to let the tub self correct and allow water to pour in ,or drive faster to make a quicker correction change and allow water to pour in even faster. I had Adair tracks on the Mudd-Ox when I owned it and they weigh a whole lot less than the rubber tracks that Matt sells. The heavier rubber Mudd-Ox tracks will make a Mudd-Ox float even lower in the water.








    This is a diesel Mudd-Ox in the water with only tires. With an aluminum cab and the heavier Mudd-Ox rubber tracks its even more unstable in the water.

    Last edited by mudbug3; 04-28-2012 at 12:21 PM.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Vicksburg, Michigan
    Posts
    3,508
    Not sure you if you just want to tow it on to a trailer or a distance but removing chains is a pain but easy enough. I am also not sure on the hydraulic set up. But assuming there is 2 lines going to each motor. Why not just put a tee on both lines on each side and connect them with a line and a ball valve. Keep the valve closed with a zip tie during normal operation. In an emergency you could cut the zip tie and open the valve and it would let the hydraulic fluid just recycle through the motors. Sounds like there are multiple motors on each side so I would put the by pass line up near the control valve.
    Last edited by LarryW; 04-28-2012 at 10:06 AM. Reason: rethinked

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Northern BC
    Posts
    2,990
    Quote Originally Posted by thebuggyman1 View Post
    Amphibs don't sink.......OK, sometimes they float upside-down

    Wow, that brings back some memories. The first time I saw my 6x6, it was sunk in a swamp like that, with only a little piece of one back tire sticking out into the air, lol.

    RD

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ontariariario
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by kmac View Post
    Thanks for the advice. I tried pushing the levers forward, but it didn't work. The tires aren't turning. I found the link on the other chain attached to the motor. I'll have to take off the chain and hope that the tires spin.
    With the levers forward the wheels will not rotate freely as a neutral setting but they will rotate, you will need another vehicle or winch to move it and won't be able to push it by hand because of the weight of the machine and resistance of the hydraulic motors. With the levers in the center or neutral position the wheels will be locked.
    I had to move my ox when I had a stripped coupler and I experienced this first hand,I broke the winch cable trying it with the levers in the center and with directions from Matt he advised me to hold the levers forward and I was able to tow the machine forward and load it onto my trailer. There aren't any bypass valves on my unit,but I don't know if the newest versions have any installed ( I doubt they do ,although they would be a good feature but added expense).

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    I live in Shreveport,,Louisiana
    Posts
    3,285
    When I owned 2010 Mudd-Ox I did'nt see any bypass valves on the wheel motors. I was told that my Mudd-Ox had some ,but I could'nt see any.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    672
    The pressure relief could be internal and preset with no adjustment.
    Pushing the sticks forward opens the valves but it wont roll easy.

  9. #19
    Thanks for all the suggestions. The hand brakes were clamped on so i had to release them first. I went for the chain link after and got them off. But they doubled back on themselves so more problems. We managed to free the wheels so all is well. We drew a curious crowd; not the kind of stuff i wanted. I wish I was told all of this (about the ox taking on water easy) because i opted for an argo, but i really wanted a diesel and was afraid of the chains . We had the safari rack, the aluminium cab and a 9.9 hp yamaha outboard motor, plus two full sized males (6' and 6'2"). I think it just could not handle the weight. It was a clam day, no crazy water entry angles, we just drove into the sea from the beach and the ox just pitched left and started taking on water. Before we knew it, it was underwater and i was in the cab. Had swim out. Again Mattsaid it was unstable in the water and he said he was making a wider body for it to float much better. He said that he completed it. So i guess he didn't do squat if on its maiden voyage the ox was like titanic.

    I need to find out what to do now, seeing that the ox was completely submerged. Is there any hope for the engine or the electronics?

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Wasilla, AK
    Posts
    923

    gotta-balance-the-load

    Man, that's horrible news. I hate hearing that. I'll question going in the water with an aluminum cab (top-heavy) mounted in the front plus two big guys sitting in the front as well as additional weight in the machine- plus a diesel. Additional options take away payload. A true water rig in the argo/mudd-ox body size needs to be kept as light as possible. Having wheel-spacers and/or longer bearing cages/axles to put the tires out wider help a lot with stability. Riding in the back (w/kicker)would have been a much better option. 1st time I floated my gas machine (2010) 15" rubber tracks,brushguard, skid-plate, canvas top- I did it empty to get an idea how it was balanced. I've towed it with a boat for a steady 30 minutes(into-wind+against-current) and even though I was concerned that the front of the machine was going to "plow" a bit, I didn't take on any water. I've made the same trip "with" the wind while riding in the back of the machine operating the kicker and found it to be very stable. An unbalanced,heavy load in that size tub is asking for trouble. My machines 1-gas, 1-diesel have placards on the dash stating payload-minus-accessories. The newest frame in the diesel is over 100 lbs lighter and stronger which helps. My old avenger with those options would not faired
    much better in the water. I'm not trying to kick a brother when he's down but it seems like there's more to the story. I'm just a casual observer, but it doesn't seem right to place all the blame on someone else. I've had great capability on the water with an ox that's set up correctly. I really am sorry to hear about your bad luck, it makes me sick.

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