My first restoration: ST/300/D

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Thread: My first restoration: ST/300/D

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Posts
    6,442
    Martin, those bearings are available through Buffalo Bearing. Tell those guys the part number or the Fafnir number that Mike gave you and they'll be able to find something for you. Their number (716) 874-1720. Mention that you're from 6X6World and they'll take good care of you.
    "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Vicksburg, Michigan
    Posts
    3,508
    HydroMike has it for you! Just make sure you get the wide inner race. I though it wouldnt matter once and bought 6 new bearings that I had to rig to make work. The axle isnt quit long enought to go in the bearing very far. Not sure why they didnt just make the axles a little longer? But I had to space the inner bearings out more to make them work. Long story short, you DO need the wide inner race.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Western New York
    Posts
    457
    Thanks for all the bearing info and I will be sure to give those folks over at Buffalo Bearing a shout. For now, however, I have found another problem. I have all the axles out....except one. This axle is the left rear, which before I began this project, I believe to be bent based on a visual inspection alone. Sure enough, I had to beat out the pin that goes through the sprocket/axle with a hammer and a punch because it simply would not just pull out like the others before it. Now, I cannot even get the sprocket to turn at all on the axle. It seems completely stuck. Could this be from a bent axle? Any suggestion as to how I can free it up (hopefully without cutting) so I can slide the axle out?
    -Attex ST/300/D - "The Duck." Family owned since the early '70's
    -Attex ST/300/D- A-stock racer build! (not yet started)
    -Attex 440 Thunderchief Racer (not yet started)
    -Attex ST/400 (not yet started)
    -Hustler 980 BIGFOOT- A work in progress (SOLD)
    -1999 Max Buffalo Truck (SOLD)
    -1989 Max IV - A Max four my kids. (In progress)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Western New York
    Posts
    457
    More pictures. The first two are of the only cracks in the tub, on the right front corner. The third is of the stuck axle/sprocket I am asking about in the previous post.

    100MEDIA_IMAG0457.jpg100MEDIA_IMAG0456.jpg100MEDIA_IMAG0452.jpg
    -Attex ST/300/D - "The Duck." Family owned since the early '70's
    -Attex ST/300/D- A-stock racer build! (not yet started)
    -Attex 440 Thunderchief Racer (not yet started)
    -Attex ST/400 (not yet started)
    -Hustler 980 BIGFOOT- A work in progress (SOLD)
    -1999 Max Buffalo Truck (SOLD)
    -1989 Max IV - A Max four my kids. (In progress)

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Buffalo, NY area
    Posts
    2,968
    Quote Originally Posted by Duck89 View Post
    Any suggestion as to how I can free it up (hopefully without cutting) so I can slide the axle out?
    Heeeeeeeeeeat! Throw a propane torch on it, and see if it'll budge. Give it a shot of penetrating oil and see if you can get it to budge by putting a pipe wrench on it. Be careful not to put TOO much force on a pipe wrench, as you can dimple the tube and be in worse shape than you started. Tap it around a bit with a hammer when you heat it, too. You can put a piece of aluminum or something in the tub to protect it from the flame, too....

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Western New York
    Posts
    457
    Alright cool, thanks Mike. Ill give 'er a try!
    -Attex ST/300/D - "The Duck." Family owned since the early '70's
    -Attex ST/300/D- A-stock racer build! (not yet started)
    -Attex 440 Thunderchief Racer (not yet started)
    -Attex ST/400 (not yet started)
    -Hustler 980 BIGFOOT- A work in progress (SOLD)
    -1999 Max Buffalo Truck (SOLD)
    -1989 Max IV - A Max four my kids. (In progress)

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Western New York
    Posts
    457
    Here's an update on my project: Good news, I finally got the frame out! I ended up not using heat, but rather just got on the inside tube with a set of vise grips- not clamped on, just held hand tight and I was finally able to break it loose. Now I begin the fun part of cleaing the body, inside and out, to bring it as close as possible back to a brillant yellow shine!

    The only thing I have a question on is- When I began the process of removing the axles, I started with the left front. I used some penetrating oil on the the pin and a little pit shot in between the axle and the tube. I tried to wipe up any excess, but when I removed the frame I noticed that tub underneath where the axle would be had turned to almost a 'pale green' finish. Is this something that can be taken care of with a little acetone/sanding/polishing or is it something that can't be removed? The first picture shows what I am asking about.

    Here's some pics

    DSCN0882.jpgDSCN0881.jpgDSCN0880.jpgDSCN0885.jpgDSCN0884.jpg
    -Attex ST/300/D - "The Duck." Family owned since the early '70's
    -Attex ST/300/D- A-stock racer build! (not yet started)
    -Attex 440 Thunderchief Racer (not yet started)
    -Attex ST/400 (not yet started)
    -Hustler 980 BIGFOOT- A work in progress (SOLD)
    -1999 Max Buffalo Truck (SOLD)
    -1989 Max IV - A Max four my kids. (In progress)

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Meadville, Pa
    Posts
    3,286
    Looking pretty good. keep up the work and you will be driving in the spring. As for the oil stain, I wouldn't worry about it. The acetone should take care of it. My colt project was stained, broken, and weathered and the patches I used were the same plus painted. I havnt done the wetsanding or polishing yet and it looks real nice now.
    l like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Vicksburg, Michigan
    Posts
    3,508
    Thanks for the updates. If the stain is not deep dont worry about it but if it deeper then maybe try sanding it some.
    Now would be a good time to add some bracket structure to attach a little hitch to the back if you don't have one already. Do it so there is a plate of steel where the hitch would go mounted flush with the inside of the tub.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Western New York
    Posts
    457
    Thanks for the comments on the stain. It just looks really weird so I thought I would ask about it to see what everyone thought. As far as a hitch is concerned, I had seriously considered one in the past when I was brainstorming but I don't think I will end up going with one. This project, when it is finished, will not be any work-horse or trail rig, so I don't think I will really need one. Plus, I am trying to keep it as original as possible, which isn't always a good thing (especially when attempting to track down decent balloon tires!)

    I started the cleaning portion of my project today with a couple of plastic scrapers, blue shop towels, fine scruff pads and a can of plexo. I scraped a LOT of pine needles and other gunk out and realized that there is still quite a bit of stuff that has basically 'crusted' itself on the bottom. I was able to get the inside of the engine cover looking as good as new. I was quite supprised how good it looks with just a little bit of plexo and a scruff pad...and a little bit of solvent on the tin.

    Still LOTS of cleaning to do
    Attached Images
    -Attex ST/300/D - "The Duck." Family owned since the early '70's
    -Attex ST/300/D- A-stock racer build! (not yet started)
    -Attex 440 Thunderchief Racer (not yet started)
    -Attex ST/400 (not yet started)
    -Hustler 980 BIGFOOT- A work in progress (SOLD)
    -1999 Max Buffalo Truck (SOLD)
    -1989 Max IV - A Max four my kids. (In progress)

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