Axle frozen to inner bearing :(

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Thread: Axle frozen to inner bearing :(

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    TUCSON
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    777
    i would not worry about that gouge..just clean it up..clean up the whole axle before you try to
    remove other bearings and sprockets..if you have access to a shop press that would make it alot
    easier to remove..

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Wetumpka, AL
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    93
    Well I now have all 6 axles out and removed all six of the inner bearings. Out of the 5 left, only one rolls smoothly. Four of them have a ratcheting feel to them so unless there is a fix I will probably replace them all. I have also removed 2 of the outer bearings from 2 of the axles. One slid right off, the other one was frozen so I had to cut it off. I will probably replace them all as well. I have also noticed that one of the axles is bent. There is some slight damage in the middle right side, which is where the axle was and is also where the inner bearing that I had to cut off. I put a right angle up to it and it has about an 1/8 of an inch curve. Can it be straightened? Or should I just find a new axle? I plan on finishing the other 4 axles tomorrow.
    Al

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kings Mountain, NC
    Posts
    7,788
    You will need to replace the ratcheting feeling bearings. I would suggest just replacing them all like you mentioned while you are in there. It will save you some headaches later and keep you from breaking down while you are out riding. Be glad you took all the axles out now since the bearings were actually bad. For your bent axle you can just straighten it back out. There are a few threads on doing that here on the site if you want to search for them. I've had the best luck with rolling them on a level surface such as a milling machine table top and just marking where I need to bend it. I take it over to the press and bend it just a little bit, put it back on the table and repeat until it is straight. You can also do the same with a sledge hammer and a piece of wood to protect the axle itself.

    Good luck.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Wetumpka, AL
    Posts
    93
    Thanks Mike...I'm doing a search like you mention. I'll let you know how it goes.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Wetumpka, AL
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    93
    Well I am about ready to remove the frame from the tub I have all six axles off and successfully removed all the bearings (I only had to hack off one inner and one outer bearing). I cleaned/degreased/and polished all the flange plates and the axles. I will paint them black before they go back on. Most of the bearings are useable but have dirt/sand in them so I will call tomorrow to see how much to replace them. I will attempt to bend the axle straight but may bite the bullet and buy a new one. Once I get the frame out, I plan on cleaning/degreasing/sanding then painting it also. Wow I have lots to do I attached some more pictures of my progress, see if you can pick out the bent axle? I still need to clean and oil the chains, I have them all labeled in the bucket, Any suggestions? Unfortunately I will be out of town next week so I won't be able to get dirty again till next Saturday Once I get the frame back together I will tackle the transmission then the engine. I see less money in my pocket for the future...
    Attached Images

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Kings Mountain, NC
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    The worst part is now over. Two pieces of advice going forward, be careful when painting your axles because paint may be thick enough to prevent the new bearings from going back on. Perhaps just paint them from the hub to where the outer bearing rides. Secondly, when reassembling everything use liberal amounts of anti-sieze on the axles, in the sprocket tubes, etc. It will make disassembly a piece of cake if you ever have to remove an axle again. If you don't you will be kicking yourself down the road.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Wetumpka, AL
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    93
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike View Post
    The worst part is now over. Two pieces of advice going forward, be careful when painting your axles because paint may be thick enough to prevent the new bearings from going back on. Perhaps just paint them from the hub to where the outer bearing rides. Secondly, when reassembling everything use liberal amounts of anti-sieze on the axles, in the sprocket tubes, etc. It will make disassembly a piece of cake if you ever have to remove an axle again. If you don't you will be kicking yourself down the road.
    Good advice Mike. I will make sure and only paint the area you describe. Is anti-seize the same stuff used on brake pads? Also, what is best to clean and re-oil the chains? Thanks,
    Al

  8. #18
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    May 2007
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    Kings Mountain, NC
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    Yes, I just usually buy the 1 oz tubes of Permatex anti-seize but any brand will do: http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ubricant_a.htm

    Clean the chains by simply washing them. If they are really gunked up I have thrown them in a parts washer before with good results. Then you can soak them in motor oil while you finish your rebuild. Then lube them up with your favorite chain lube from then on out. It doesn't really matter as long as you get them clean of dirt, sand, etc and then lube them good once they are back in the machine.

  9. #19
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    Aug 2010
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    Wetumpka, AL
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    Mike what is your paypal email address, I should be paying you for all this advice Can I donate to the site? Anyway, I have been burning brain cells trying to figure out what to do about the bearings. I know the inners are 205-16's with a 1" bore but mine seem to be pressed fitted into a single 2 bolt flange plate. Meaning there is only one flange plate, is this normal? I went to Motion Industries and he is quoting me for the Fafnir 1" bearings that are sandwiched in between two (2 bolt) flange plates. The outer bearings are the 206-19's with a 1 3/16" bore sandwiched in between 2 three bolt flange plates with the outer plate having a grease fitting. Motion Industries gave me a quote for the all FAFNIR Bearings (6 inner, 6 outer, plus all new flange plates (24 total flange plates)) for about $325.00 out the door. Is it worth paying that much or should I get the less expensive on-line (most likely chinese) for about half that cost and even save some more by re-using my old outer flange plates. I can't use the inner flange plates because the bearings are press fitted (Is that normal?). I am also thinking of using eccentric collars on the outers and set screws on the inners...any thoughts?

  10. #20
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kings Mountain, NC
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    You definitely don't have to pay for my advice. In fact I would recommend you search what other people on here say more than me. I just try to facilitate communication to keep the thread at the top of the page until someone who actually knows what they are talking about comes along. Just because I'm the admin doesn't mean I know anything...seriously. Perhaps that should be my signature The good news is that there are so many knowledgeable members here even someone like me can learn a thing or two after hanging around them for a while. And yes, you can donate to the site or purchase a t-shirt / sticker. Either way all proceeds go back to keep this place running. See this thread for more info: http://www.6x6world.com/forums/6x6-w...d-sponsor.html

    On to your questions...

    For the bearings that you are saying are pressed into a flange plate, are you sure they aren't like the ones in this article on How to replace your Axles and Bearings ? If you will look at page two of that article, the third picture down, that is what I imagine you are talking about? The bearings rotate out of the flange. I'm just guessing here.

    If that is the case, then you don't need the inner flanges, just clean and reuse the old ones. A wire brush on a drill goes a long ways here. Just be sure to get all of the dirt and contaminants out of the grease channel so that grease flows correctly. The same goes for the outer flanges. As long as they are not bent or damaged you can clean them and reuse them too but if they aren't too expensive I would buy them too just to be sure you get an even seal all the way around the outer bearings.

    At first I thought the price you gave was pretty expensive but that was quoting the flanges too. Do you have a breakdown of the prices per bearing and flange. I imagine the inner flanges are fairly high?

    For the collars, did all of the bearings originally have eccentric collars?

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