Jlo 400 engine problems

[nate52]

from my plug i have wires 2 and 3 both running to terminals 51 on the rectifier. i have wires 4 and 5 both running to my ign. terminal on my ignition switch (of ign., batt., acc., and starter). i have my power wire running from battery to terminal 53 on the rectifier and then to my batt. terminal on my ignition switch, along with the jumper wire between terminals 53. when i turn the key on without cranking it over wire 5 (from terminal 51 on rectifier to ign. terminal on ignition switch) gets hott to the touch along with my power wire from the battery and i get smoke from behind the flywheel. wire 4 though doesn't get hot. it also smokes when i crank it over and i have no idea what i'm doing wrong. Please HELP!!!

[nate52]

after looking over the wiring diagram again for my engine i have come to the conclusion that it is wired properly since everything matches up with the diagram but i still get smoke when power is given to the cyl. ll wire which has led me to believe that this wire is shorting out. i believe it's internally shorted somewhere since i've checked my external wire and all appears ok and the smoke comes out from behind the flywheel. how do i get to the cyl. ll wire in the motor, can i access it through the pulling of the head or do i need to pull the flywheel? or is there another way i could be able to access this wire and do you think this could be the problem?

nate

[jpswift1]

Nate, I think you need to pull the flywheel to get to it. I'd imagine that it is shorting where there are moving parts or where there is a small opening where a group of wires are running through. The vibration probably caused the wire insulation to wear off over the years. Let us know what you find. I know these problems can be very frustrating......I've been there too. Good luck with it.

[KrS14]

I've had to research this schematic back when we first got the 400, so maybe a little clearing up of things is needed

The two wires labeled: Black Cyl I and II are grounds for the Blue and Blue-Yellow Pickup coils. These two wires need to be grounded to STOP the engine. So when the key is turned to OFF these two wires should be connected to a grounded terminal on your key switch.

Wires 2 and 3, the two yellow wires from the engine, have to SEPARATELY go a terminal on the rectifier, one wire for one 51 the other wire for the other 51.

Make sure you have #1 in the key switch harness grounded.

I can take a pic of our wiring on our 400 next time i'm at Dezi's if you'd like

This may help as well:

http://www.asberry.net/files/TwoStrokeSM.pdf

It helped me out.

[nate52]

so do my two black wires for cyl. l and ll get constant power when the switch on is in the on position?

[KrS14]

Nope, they're basically not connected to anything unless the key is "OFF" then they are connected to ground through the key switch.

[nate52]

well obviously my problem is in the way i have it wired because these two wires were getting power, and i pulled the flywheel and no wires were shorting out behind there. i am going to replace the points magnifier plate since i already have it apart and the magnifier with the yellow wires running to it looks to be burnt up and don't feel like putting it back together just to find out it is and that the motor isn't charging lol. but back to my wiring, i now know that the two wires running from my switch to the engine DO NOT get power but now how do i hook them up. how do i ground the switch in order to give ground to these two wires when i turn off the key, when the switch is mounted in a plastic body from the factory? and what kind of switch do i need to use on this and where can i get it at? it didn't have one when i bought it so i just bought a regular atv switch from the local tractor supply, which doesn't have a ground terminal on it. i just have a battery terminal starter terminal and ignition terminal which has power when switch is on, o and also an accessory terminal. whats my next move?

nate

[KrS14]

You have to get a switch that has a ground terminal, and when in the off position connects that ground to a different terminal. Plus your other normal things like start, on etc.

Something like this:

http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/31----9654.html

This actually may be the exact switch Agro uses on it's new vehicles. Looks like it.

Kohler OEM# 25-099-04 Is the replaceable Part Number.

[nate52]

alright thanks for the help, it was much appreciated. hopefully i'm on the right track again. the restoration was going pretty smooth there for awhile and was looking like i'd be be driving it around within a couple of days, and then i ran into this little detour. thanks again.

nate

[nate52]

Thought I would post an update on how i'm coming with my jlo and as of right now it breathe's life. I ordered a charging coil for it a couple of weeks ago from Canada and installed it and got the motor put back together a couple of days ago. I was able to put the motor back into my attex yesterday, got all my wiring hooked up correctly and then pulled the plugs and sprayed a little two stroke oil/gas mixture into the cylinders, turned it over and it fired right up. Once I heard that motor kick off I couldn't contain the smile on my face and looked over and noticed that my dad couldn't either seeing a grin from ear to ear lol The way this thing looked when i first got it i doubted that it would run this well if at all, but the engine sounds healthy and surprising fired after only about 2 or 3 strokes. I thought that the motor would need alot more time an effort along with parts to get this thing going, but turned out to be a simple fix and very little wrenching. I can't wait to get done with class today and then get off work so I can go home and hook up my fuel lines and hear it run for more than just a couple of seconds. All thats left before I can drive it is the Making of a new seat and floor and then it's operable. Can't Wait !!!

Nate