Grease works for this also, it doesnt run out before you put the bolt in the hole...
Grease works for this also, it doesnt run out before you put the bolt in the hole...
You need a puller like this:
Arctic Cat Snowmobile Clutch Puller
Typically the clutch puller for the tapered shafts is a short bolt that threads into the clutch and a rod that goes in first and bottoms out in the hole in the crank. When the bolt screws into the clutch it pushes on the rod, and against the crank....forcing them apart.
Well I got a 910 Salsbury clutch that I'm currently rebuilding for my primary, mocked the stripped parts engine in today to get an idea of the mounting position... everything cleared and fits nicely, I even reused the original belt (which looks almost new) from the sled, now I have to fab up a adjustable engine mount with vibration isolators, the 440 Arctic Cat/Kawasaki sled engine is up and running and man what a beast!! I had concerns with the 7.5 inch driven clutch, but the Trail Boss has 18" tires on it, so I don't think the higher ratio will be that big of an issue, still lots to do on her but all the major stuff is starting to come together...
Last edited by Mike; 04-28-2012 at 10:22 PM. Reason: merged two threads on the same topic
A person who says "anything is possible" obviously has never tried to staple jello to a tree....
The larger diameter secondary will give you more bottom end torque.
High gear will be the same as long as the secondary can open wide enough.
Just to clarify.....it would be like having a car with a stick and losing your 1st gear........Big v-8, no problem.....little gas sipper, big problemOriginally Posted by Bazooo guy
The larger diameter secondary will give you more bottom end torque.
High gear will be the same as long as the secondary can open wide enough.
How's the low end torque on that 440?
Its a 2 stroke so it probably will have good power around 6000 rpm.
Depends how the final drive is geared but i think you should be ok.
I suppose the 440 is pretty strong on the bottom end being a twin cylinder....the sled it came from was an Arctic Cat Panther...top of the line in '74...and a pretty heavy sled to boot...I figure most of these machines are running 20+ inch tires where as mine has 18's, so the gearing will naturally have to be different to compensate for the smaller tires...
A person who says "anything is possible" obviously has never tried to staple jello to a tree....
The following is copied from the Dayco Belt web site: ATV and Snowmobile Belts - by Dayco
Tech Tip #3: How Over-Sized Tires Affect Clutching
Oversized tires have a lot of benefits, such as better traction and performance and greater ground clearance. The down fall to these tires is loss in power, throttle response, and increased belt slippage.
Usually, oversized tires weigh more than the stock tires the machine is set up for. It will take more power to turn the extra weight. This is where it helps to use lighter weight rims.
Most oversized tires will offer more aggressive tread, which will make it harder for the motor to turn the tires. Even if the tires and rims are lighter than your stock tires, they will still start out in a higher gear ratio due to the taller tire. With the extra weight, traction, and height there is an increased strain on the clutch system causing belt slippage.
I take this to say that tire weight and aggressive tread mean more than tire diameter.
I included the link because there is a lot of good info there.
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