Mudd Ox questions/Mudd Ox answers

[travisch]

One major thing I forgot that needs to be taken into consideration is the type of wheel motor used. Mine has Poclain motors abut some have Sauer-Danfoss. Depending on the type of motor the primary (motor) and secondary (axle) sprockets will be different as each hydraulic motor has different specs.

[hancock]

You beat me to it. I was just logging back on to add that the sprocket size on the hydraulic drive could also affect the gear ratio, and possibly that is where the conflicting information is coming from. I didn't realize he changed up brands on the wheel motors. I don't know if the difference in the manufacturer is time driven, or random, and I don't remember when you bought your machine exactly. But, Wayne, Mark and I were all roughly around the same time frame, (Wayne a little earlier, actually), and I think yours was maybe a little later, so maybe that is the source of the conflict.

[akexpress]

what color are your motors, if they are yellow they are poclains.

[hancock]

They are yellow. I looked up the Poclain motor on the internet and mine don't look like the blue model they have advertised as the one they put in skid steer equipment, but they do look closer to that than anything I could find that Sauer-Danfoss had. I checked the tooth count on the sprockets on the hydraulic motors and that is 13, which is the same that Wayne had, however he had 16 on the axle whereas I'm at 21.

I guess the question would be if the two different types of hydraulic motors have the same tooth count on the associated sprockets at the motor. In other words, either Wayne and I have DIFFERENT hydraulic motors but the SAME tooth count on the motor, or we have the SAME motor and he has the high gear and I have the low.

I thought we were onto something there at first, and to be honest I was hoping the problem was going to be that mine had the low gearing erroneously. Than would be somewhat of an easy answer to the speed, and at least some of the heat issues. If the yellow color defines the motor as Poclain, and Poclain only........ and if the high gear tooth count on the axle sprocket is 21 with Proclain.....then I guess it's back to the drawing board.

Which do you have, Mark? Poclains or the Sauer-Danfoss? I'm guessing Poclain by virtue of the fact that you know the color, but then again I would think if 21 teeth on the gear meant low gearing to you, then it would be the Sauers.



Thanks for the info
Hancock

[hancock]

Here's whats on board: 13 teeth at the motor and 21 at the axle.

[akexpress]

I have a machine with the same yellow poclain as you a different variation of hoses but the same motor i will count both sets of teeth tonight and get back to you as I know i have the high gearing on my black machine.

[hancock]

Thanks AK, but i think we finally have a verdict. Matt called and left a message yesterday and confirmed with me that it is indeed the high gear set-up. I just left for work for 4 days and forgot my phone, (sorry Matt), but I will call you when I get back and we can discuss the other areas you had for me to check out. (There is both an up side and a down side with forgetting your phone). If the low gearing were the problem, it would have been a "comfortable" fix. I hope there are some other reasonably easy avenues to get the speed up close to where it should be. It's roughly 25% off of what's expected at this point.

I've received some good photos of Aussie's muffler and exhaust adjustments and plan on pursuing that before too long.

Hancock

[FGuedon]

I now have about 60 hours on My Mudd Ox here in very hot Mississippi. The heat under my seat with the cab and windshield was unbearable! Taking them off helped a lot but it still felt like I was driving an old 5020 John Deere tractor on my fathers farm. The engine also got hot, but not the hydraulics. I added a tachometer and a temperature guage to my engine. The temperature on a bolt next to the dipstick, where I put the underbolt temp guage, would get over 255 degrees farenheit when driven hard. My solution was to put another fan exactly like the one for the engine under the seat, blowing over both hydraulic motors. Before I put this fan on, I had already put a small 7 inch cab type fan under the passenger handle bar to blow across the legs. These two additions have made the under the seat heat much better and lowered my temperature on the motor by about 10 degrees. To keep my battery from going dead I added a large marine battery, from Walmart, with one of there battery boxes for a trolling motor, in the back compartment and connected it in parallel with the battery using 4 guage starter cables. I also have extra lights on the roll bar, a commercial radio, and a sony am/fm/cd player connected. I can spot light varmints all night before my set up runs dead. I charge the battery over night every night and this works well. However, when I drive it hard, loaded, during the hot day, my temp will go up to 260 degrees. If I drive slow for a while, it comes right back down. I have already ordered a fan from the "Fan Man", that doubles the cfm and will fit in the stock place. Then all I should need is the alternator upgrade. By the way, the 10 inch fan fits perfectly under the seat Matt, hint, hint, hint...

[Matt O.]

FGuedon,
Please give me a call at the shop 260-768-7221 The 2010 Mudd-Ox has a large engine bay fan that has a much higher CFM rating. This might be the very same one you ordered from the fan man. If so I will send you a mounting bracket that will make the fan change easy. I also have the 105 amp alternator systems.

Matt

[Amphiman1]

What kind of warrenty do these machines come with? even after problems arise and cures are made, is it still under warrenty? parts too?