1.5" thick repro UHMW crosser (elevated-belt) with 1/8" steel insert

[Buzz]

Another way to utilize steel "channel"...if you want... in this design (like channel tracks) but have big paddles (like escargo) is to simply router the large tire guide/belt-mounting blocks and place them directly on top of a piece of steel channel. So you end up with basically a fat-body escargo/channel crosser that could take advantage of over an inch of steel cleat height with lightweight paddle surface area and an elevated-belt mounting area. It would be effortless to adjust the width for any tire and doesn't require any different amount of UHMW for different crosser widths....just a bit more or a bit less steel channel. So it would be lighter than channel with more paddle than anything out there.

I mentioned this very thing earlier and posted a picture...on one of these escargo or hybrid-related threads (don't remember), but I'm going to test it to see what thickness of steel channel would be needed to maintain strength. Track assembly would be in the typical escargo fashion w/ grade 8 bolts, sandwiching everything down tight. It should be plenty strong. And very flexible for all tires widths. Basically anything. I'll test it adequately for durability with loaded 8-wheelers in Alaska conditions before I think about telling one of my buddies to build one.

[rockrewls]

Good info, I just hope your not stepping over a dollar to save a dime in the end, although its seems fun to try different things and my feeling is that's what you folks are doing, it's great and can only benefit this community in the end.
Buzz what about a considerably thicker crosser with a lower profile to enable a taller blade for more traction?? eg 1 3/4" wide, 3/4" thick or something to that effect? it will maintain strength, but allow more room for blade height without the chance of hitting the argo tub.

Rock

[Buzz]

Good info, I just hope your not stepping over a dollar to save a dime in the end, although its seems fun to try different things and my feeling is that's what you folks are doing, it's great and can only benefit this community in the end.
Buzz what about a considerably thicker crosser with a lower profile to enable a taller blade for more traction?? eg 1 3/4" wide, 3/4" thick or something to that effect? it will maintain strength, but allow more room for blade height without the chance of hitting the argo tub.

Rock

I never have a short answer, but-
Good point. Therein lies the problem. At the end of the day, how much time and money do you have into it....to come full circle. But sometimes you learn new things along the way that you would never thought of otherwise...if you had not tried.
I went with 1.5" material for additional strength for that very reason...knowing that you're going to have to compromise on your UHMW height (with a UHMW bladed style crosser). At some point it would become cost prohibitive to use even thicker UHMW...you know...just to machine most of the cleat height away. I like to think of it like a floor joist...additional cleat "height" gives strength just as effectively.

As it is, I probably should have put 3/16" flat bar instead of 1/8"....as the remaining UHMW (very little with a bladed hybrid) does very little to provide any rigidity). It's all about the steel. Flat bar inserts are not heavy. We're lucky to be able to watch Spookum's crossers (3/16") vs. mine (1/8") just to know the difference. Both heavy, higher powered machines, different amounts of cleat height and steel/plastic thickness. You gotta test the difference right? It would be easy to just throw 1/4" in there..but weight adds up right? Escargo has managed to use an strong design (and quality steel) to find a great balance of strength vs. weight with a super tall traction cleat.

This is a hobby- I have a lot of fun doing this just like I do wrenching on other things. You have to be that way a little if you're going to enjoy owning these machines and make them better..as...eventually they start becoming work. So if you're not that way...the novelty wears off. So it all just kinda goes hand in hand. And, to be honest I enjoy the challenge....I think that's probably the biggest thing. Until you get something "dialed" it's hard to stop thinking about it. But instead of going wider than 1.5" UHMW, I'll try to incorporate more cleat "height" for additional strength and try different designs. I'm just not too keen on very short UHMW height. Thin walls start to get sketchy.
long answer but I hope that helps

[Buzz]

buddy has an avenger that was running poorly. Got it sorted out, so we went out for a short little test ride. A couple little climbs, tiny bit of snow, and a little bumpy ground with a few logs. Nothing too crazy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSnbhvmYhTA

[rockrewls]

thanks for sharing the vid.

Rock

[2014SE]

That is a very good video Buzz. The Mudd-Ox really worked those tracks. I thought the background views in the 2 minute plus range were spectacular. Very impressive what you were able to climb.

Thought I would add another design for you to look at.

This is one of Adairs hybrid elevated grousers. The stainless steel plate goes on the forward side of the grouser. This track will be installed on the new Adair series Argo Frontiers. The first one will get a shakedown run in 3-4 weeks at the Mud Nationals and if everything looks good will ship up to Alaska is my understanding. Brandon always takes a lot of videos at the event and will be with the group again this year. Among the many special features of the Adair series Frontier are custom wheels that are reversible. When the tracks are installed the wheels are reversed over the center wheels to be the correct offset for use with the track tuners. You can remove the tracks and track tuners and just flip the center wheels if you want to run just tires. I thought that was pretty clever. I think there are like 15 machines in the first run all with Adair elevated tracks but not all will get the steel faced version of elevated or "classic" track but all do get the elevated disign for gear reduction and a low gear trans.

Keith.

That will be a expensive track with stainless grousers and the weight will be at least the same as a Escargo grouser. Look cool and not rust if they use stainless bolts but expensive.

[rockrewls]

That will be a expensive track with stainless grousers and the weight will be at least the same as a Escargo grouser. Look cool and not rust if they use stainless bolts but expensive.

That design is not for me, I don't trust the stainless plate to stay attached to the crosser!! and if I was gonna spend the money I might as well get the escargo.
the metal insert in the center of the crosser and bolted through would be a much better design imo!

Rock

[Buzz]

disregard-wrong spot

[2014SE]

buddy has an avenger that was running poorly. Got it sorted out, so we went out for a short little test ride. A couple little climbs, tiny bit of snow, and a little bumpy ground with a few logs. Nothing too crazy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSnbhvmYhTA

Good video again. I have a hard time with video here in camp, I have to watch on the cellular network and that's shorty at best with 1 maybe 2 bars but finally got it done.

Read and see here you took the tracks from tandem and made singles and went back to Argo tires. After trying them both ways are you recommending singles over tandem? I was thinking id like to try tandem but after your earlier video I was rethinking that and waiting to see what you're experience and opinion was.

The tracks look like they perform quite well now and I didn't see any tire slippage this time but I'm watching on the small screen on a iPhone here.

[seanno2]

Well after reading all 9 pages of this thread and all 10 pages of the thread escargo v.s adair I have not come to a conclusion of which tracks I want. I called escargo in Wisconsin today and it would be $3700 for just the tracks. I called Adair tracks after that and it would be $3500 for tracks, wheels, and snow extensions. So price wise the Adair tracks are sounding really nice.

So what will I be doing with my Max IV 6X6? I'll be swimming about 3 hundred yards on my lake and driving up on a floating bog to go duck hunting. I'll be driving in snow that is usually no deeper then 3 ft. I'll be driving around in muddy/rocky terrain.

So honestly which tracks should I buy?