Attex superchief 500 axle ?

[fordmtrsp]

I have an attex I was wondering the best material to build the axles out of and the best bolts to use. My sprokets only have one bolt hole in them should I put another? Any help would be great!!!

[jpswift1]

Whipper-ag and I have been discussing using 4140 Chromoly heat treated 1" bar instead of the standard cold rolled steel for greater strength. Whipper-ag is quite the machinist and is a very nice guy to deal with especially when you need something 6x6 related.

[hydromike]

I think drilling more bolt holes will significantly weaken the axle. If you keep the one axle bolt tight, and don't allow it to become loose and egg-shape the sprocket tube and the axle hole itself, it should be able to continuously hold up to the 48 or so horsepower the Chap. puts out in that machine. Using the correct bolt is very key. You can search for Whipper's discussion on the appropriate shoulder diamter of the body-bound bolts, which should help you.
In my opinion, the axles, sprocket tubes and smaller bearings on the Attex machines are their greatest weak point, but even then, it's not "weak". With proper attention given to all these parts, you can regularly abuse (I mean ABUSE) the parts, and they'll hold up fine. You just have to be diligent. (oh, and don't let friends drive them......) :o)

~m

[fordmtrsp]

Whate grade of bolts do you recommend?

[Mike]

(oh, and don't let friends drive them......) :o)

~m

Mike, it's bad when your friends are the weakest link in your Attex

As for the grade of bolts I would think that grade 8 would be preferred?

[hydromike]

I try to use grade 8's whenever I can, but maybe not for the reason you might think. In my experience, the harder grade 8 bolt (vs. a grade 5, for instance) tends to break before it will bend. I've taken both the D/ stock and the 503 out on some runs where I've bent the grade 5s which actually tore right through the axle tubes. Grade 8's always seem to just sheer off.

Somewhere in the driveline, you're going to need a fuse. I'm not against using grade 5's on other machines which also see significant abuse, since they'll tend to break before a potentially much more expensive, or difficult-to-fix part does. Most of us just carry a few extra bolts in the tool box. (oh, Jeff sheared a grade 8 on the "Chernobyl Run" too. Happens all the time).

~m

[Don]

Just as a side note: If your bucket seat is mounted on a pivot with a shock absorber and you're too fat to be riding in the first place, make sure there's enough clearance between the axle bolts and the seat frame. If there's not enough, you could bottom out the seat as the axle bolt turns, shear the bolt, and lose traction in the mud on that side. Then, if you were dumb enough to rev up and dump the sticks forward to get out of the mud, it could theoretically bust a chain, pull the 6000 trans (that you may have just rebuilt) loose on one side and twist the cast aluminium frame like a pretzel.

I'm not saying this did happen, but I'm sure it could happen.

[Mike]

Don, I'm sure that would never really happen though

[boncrshr]

When I was having axles made for my Hustler, I thought about the same thing. I decided to go back with the stock material because I figured that if I was going to bend/break something I would rather it be an axle. I theorized that if the axles were bulletproof, then your frame would become the weak link?


BTW, is a keyed axle stronger than an axle with a bolt hole in it? Or does just one hole not really make much difference?

[fordmtrsp]

I checked with a steel supplier and they could get me 4130 chromoly what is the difference between that and 4140 chromoly. Also does anyone know if 18" is the right length for the axles on a 500 superchief?