cage

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Thread: cage

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Near Harrisburg, PA
    Posts
    53
    Hey wtr, thanks for the imput and the pic, nice cage btw... My intention for the attex is pretty much build it as tough as i can an run the poo out of it...lol I have no problems with welding, been doing it most of my life and i own a pipe bender, i was just wondering where the best place was to fasten the cage, the frame doesn't look all that tough but i guess its the most solid part of the machine.... again, thanks

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    EAST TEXAS
    Posts
    177

    Thumbs down Thanks

    jpswift1,
    The tires are at 3 psi without any mod in the pic's.I have .25 inches from top of the tub.I have .75 between the tires so its almost like tracks Well over an inch from the side of the tub.Ill heat the inner fender up with a heat gun then put a board(plywood) between the tire & inner top wheel well while the tire is flat then air them up to stretch the plastic while its hot.Then let the plastic cool for a few hrs. Then let the air out & pull the board out.Should get a .50 inch or .75 inch more clearance from the top of tub.
    The metal is 1/8 steel 2x2 angel on the band that goes all the way around the cart with a small 3x3,3/16 angel on the back to mount the winch & a 3x3,3/16 angel that run between the headlights for the brush guard & winch mount.I did the receaver hitch style for the winch so that I can pull one pin & move it to the back if need be.The bush guard is made of 1' 110 tubbing with 1/8 steel.(scrap)
    Ok now the roll cage.I used 095,1.75''tubbing on the main hoops (Thats what most race cars use)I used 1.50'' 110 tubbing to connect both tubs together on top & back.Ok as you can see The max2 clam shells to get to the workings of the cart(motor & trans)NOT LIKE THE ATTEX.Mine still does that because the middle main hoop still connects to the frame with the pins like the roll bar does on a stock max2.The front and back parts of the roll cage are bolted to the top half of body and the metal frame,so it will still clam shell,Like stock.
    Now the fun part. The front rack ties in the brush guard and roll cage to make it rigid & strong.(as one)I still have to build the bill off the front top of the roll cage for my off road lights to be boxed in so they wont get ripped off in the woods
    By the time I run the new battery(blue top),new motor & all the metal & racks & tires & rims the extra lights I only added about 175 to 180 pounds.I still weighs less than a max4 but have all the goodys.The body will be done in vinal camo by deepcreek.com.Im looking at the new AP.
    The tire weigh 27 pnds.The rims are MUDOX rims 9x10 double bead lock(k rims)
    and weigh 10 pnds.You can get them by contacting Matt O on this site.
    As you can see I have a long ways to go on my HOG GETTER but it will be worth it when I finish it.LIKE A TANK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    I hope this gives anyone some insite to what can be done & I hope you have fun with your 6x6.If you need any help just give me a shout.Im still learning from a lot of you guys & dont mind sharing what Ive learned.
    Later,Eddie

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