Bearing Replacement question

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Thread: Bearing Replacement question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada
    Posts
    85

    Bearing Replacement question

    ok, got the bolts loosened, the set screws loosened. Having trouble getting the sprockets off!!

    Couple of question, do you have to take the chains off to get the sprockets off? If so, how do you get the chains off? How do you get the sprockets off the axle???

    Have it half apart and would like to get this done asap, thanks,
    Steve Cornick
    Steve Cornick
    1993 Vanguard Argo w/16hp B&S

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada
    Posts
    85
    Ohh yeah, it's the right side rear on my 93 6 wheel vanguard.
    Steve Cornick
    1993 Vanguard Argo w/16hp B&S

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Peterborough, Ontario Canada
    Posts
    93
    Remove the chain first. Do this by locating the master link and seperating it.

    does it have roll pins, splined shafts or key ways ? If it's a roll pin then remove the pin.

    Are all the lock collars loosened off ? There should be one on each side of the sprocket and each locking collar has 2 set screws.
    Release the bearing races from the inboard end of the shaft.

    Once these are loose then everything should slide out.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada
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    85
    Quote Originally Posted by Paquette View Post
    Remove the chain first. Do this by locating the master link and seperating it.

    does it have roll pins, splined shafts or key ways ? If it's a roll pin then remove the pin.

    Are all the lock collars loosened off ? There should be one on each side of the sprocket and each locking collar has 2 set screws.
    Release the bearing races from the inboard end of the shaft.

    Once these are loose then everything should slide out.
    ok, loosened the inner bearing set screws and she then slid out, but I never removed the chain. But I guess I should learn how to remove it. locating the master link and separating it might be a problem, never took chain apart before.
    Wow, there's 2 grooves worn away on my axle. What does that mean. I'll take some pics soon and post.
    Steve
    Steve Cornick
    1993 Vanguard Argo w/16hp B&S

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Peterborough, Ontario Canada
    Posts
    93
    Your's is just like mine then. It has two key way slots. Your options now are to either replace the axles which I believe are about $75.00 a piece or to have them re-machined.

    Do you have the parts manual ? If not PM me your e-mail address and I'll send you one.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada
    Posts
    85
    ok, here is some pics of my axle, note the groove in the second pic:







    I'm a welder and I was thinking I could run a bead the full length of the groove and then get the buffing disc and bring it flush with the rest of the axle? Would that work?
    Steve Cornick
    1993 Vanguard Argo w/16hp B&S

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Peterborough, Ontario Canada
    Posts
    93
    You'll have to be able to get it pretty smooth and round again otherwise you'll never keep a bearing or seal in it. You know anyone with a metal lathe ? Even if you could mount it on a wood lathe somehow and use a file to smothen it out would be better than a buffing disc.

    Lucky bugger you have splined shafts.......Mine has two keyway slots (which are better than roll pins I guess)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Peterborough, Ontario Canada
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    93
    Check your private messages at the top of the page where it says "notifications"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    1,470
    Actually from the photos the grooves usually caused by the seals doesn't look too bad. The inboard groove looks like the set screw loosened and the bearing walked and that I would leave. You could probably get away by just polishing the seal area and installing new seals. Seals leak due to the roughness of the shaft and the wear area deep enough to reduce the seal lip tension. Also the wear area profile (deep grooves next to each other) would not allow the seal to properly contact the shaft. If the grooves are just a few thousands of an inch deep i would just polish them out. Welding the area would be OK if you machined the axles. you have more problems if the seal area ends up with a flat spot or is egg shaped when you hand finish with a file or grinder.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada
    Posts
    85
    Quote Originally Posted by Paquette View Post
    Check your private messages at the top of the page where it says "notifications"
    Hey Paquette, I checked my private messages but I have no new ones??

    Steve
    Steve Cornick
    1993 Vanguard Argo w/16hp B&S

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