Amphibious Kettenkrad

[Stonewall]

Won't having 2 wheels on angled forks like that be hard to steer? You might try 1 wheel mechanically driven with something similar to a Rokon.

[Bw6]

Won't having 2 wheels on angled forks like that be hard to steer? You might try 1 wheel mechanically driven with something similar to a Rokon.

Stonewall, Yes you are absolutely right, because of the rake angle it was hard to steer. It would be easier if I changed the tire selection and went to narrow m/c tires, and moved them in. What I found was when I turned to lock the outside tire would lift off the ground so only one tire was driving. That meant that I would have to engage the locking diff. all the time. Also the diff. mounting brackets needed to be very rigid so that when one fork was compressed the other would have to move in unison. Not one of my better designs, lol. It's amazing how one thing leads to another, because of the hard steering I was going to design a power assist...blah, blah, blah. But after critiquing the thing, I decided that it would be easier to just drive the single wheel either hydraulically or mechanically, similar to the Rokon. But hopefully I won't need it. I'm hoping that the tracks will give me enough traction that the front wheel won't impede my progress. Thanks for the comments Stonewall!

[6X6]

Personally, I hope it works well without having to drive the front wheel, of course if you gear/shaft/chain drive it there's the part of getting gear ratio/tire circumference to match the rear driveline, and if you change tires to a different size front or rear..... I'm NOT that well versed in hydraulic drive to know how close it would have to be, I figure it has some give, not sure how much.
Of course, just going by the original Kett, I personally like the look of a narrow M.C. tire.
Keeping an eye on this one for sure.

[Bw6]

Personally, I hope it works well without having to drive the front wheel, of course if you gear/shaft/chain drive it there's the part of getting gear ratio/tire circumference to match the rear driveline, and if you change tires to a different size front or rear..... I'm NOT that well versed in hydraulic drive to know how close it would have to be, I figure it has some give, not sure how much.
Of course, just going by the original Kett, I personally like the look of a narrow M.C. tire.
Keeping an eye on this one for sure.

6x6, Were singing from the same songsheet, driving the front wheel is a challenge either hyd/mech. The front wheel has to "lead" a little. If I went this way I would keep the M/C tire, just change it to a motocross or enduro type. Hydraulically I would need to use a "pressure compensated flow control valve" and a mech. tach to match speeds, that along with a solenoid operated directional control valve for F/Rev. With this setup I would only engage the front wheel drive whenever I needed a little help getting out of a hole etc., otherwise the DCV would have a "float spool" position that would allow the front wheel to coast. Mechanically it would be selecting a sprocket ratio that would match. Right now I know of 3 patents covering this setup. Here are two of the links, very interesting reading.Christini All Wheel Drive Motorcycles
How it all started - Öhlins

[Stonewall]

If you go with hydraulicaly powering the front wheel, you might try to research some of the older John Deere 4020 series tractors. These tractors were available with a hydraulic powered front wheel assist (the rear wheels were still mechanically powered). Tractors with this system are rare, but you might be able to find out how they got the hydraulic fronts in sync with the mechanical rears.

[Bw6]

If you go with hydraulicaly powering the front wheel, you might try to research some of the older John Deere 4020 series tractors. These tractors were available with a hydraulic powered front wheel assist (the rear wheels were still mechanically powered). Tractors with this system are rare, but you might be able to find out how they got the hydraulic fronts in sync with the mechanical rears.

Interesting, thanks, will check them out.

[LarryW]

Im not sure if it would work but wouldnt a hydraulic motor on the front wheel hooked to a hydraulic motor on the rear wheel work? The mechanical driven rear would use the motor as a pump to run the front? Not sure but maybe something to look into. You could use either setup of a wheel motor or chain/sprocket setup to hydro motor)

[6X6]

BW6. Very interesting link. I've seen an AWD mountain bike before, but never the internals. I'm supprised at the gap the front is underdriven by, but the principal is the same as some of the 1/8 on-Road R/Cs I used to race, though the underdriven gap was minimal.
If not having power to the front wheel in reverse was no issue I think that would be the perfect setup. Not the most simple, but it looks like you've already made more complex parts for this hobby before.

[Stonewall]

[QUOTE=LarryW;86192]Im not sure if it would work but wouldnt a hydraulic motor on the front wheel hooked to a hydraulic motor on the rear wheel work? The mechanical driven rear would use the motor as a pump to run the front?[QUOTE]

That sounds good, but I'm pretty sure that you can't use a motor as a pump. You could probably do that with a real pump and the proper sprocket ratios, although I believe you'd still have to have a fluid tank (unless you could fill the pump, motor and both hoses without getting ANY air in them).

Edit: I have issues with quotes for some reason...

[plott hound]

holy moly BW6,thats a great looking creation.cant wait to see it in action,personaly that is.