The **OTHER** Super Swamp Fox build....

[Tomo]

hi ,
You mentioned the hustler type of adjuster, can u please direct me to a picture of one as we both are aware of the max 2 adjuster faults .IMO the max ajuster is an average performer ,so yes i would consider others . [it was just easier for me to start with a pre made unit ]

The replacement for the timber would be say 1/2 inch HDPE or if it is not rigid enough a plastic sheet of some type . I have seen the recycled plastic logs they use under rail line tough flexiable weather proof, sheets available ??
Another idea is to use foam that is used in fibre glass boats . I am aware of it being f/glassed in [down side would be limited strength ]
If u use timber or equivilant on the floor remember its original purpose would have been
stiffness for added strength
required to be water proof unlike timber
The ""timber""' insert has to function like a false floor as it is fibre glassed to the main floor allowing eg rocks to penetrate the outer floor but still no leaks to the inside

tomo

[Noel Woods]

Just because all you guys have started rebuilding your machines, I decided to join you. Not just for kicks and grins, I had a bearing carrier go out and in the process of looking at the original zerk-less bearings, decided to redo the thing right. Everything is disassembled. Will go with splined axels, heavy duty sprockets and bearings, reinforced frame, new UHMW for the chain adjusters, as well as some body work. The diesel motor and t-20 will go back in with no changes. E.T.A. for finalization, November 2011. I hope to see several other Swamp Foxes up and going then.

[hydromike]

hi , You mentioned the hustler type of adjuster, can u please direct me to a picture of one

Hey tomo, here's a picture of a Hustler front chain adjuster. The adjusters for the rear and the middle (off the T-20) chains are similar.



This is a bit of a bad example since this one is bent pretty badly, but that's a result of a poor mounting system for the adjuster; not an issue with the adjuster itself. After bracing mine up a bit more, I have about 20 or 30 hours on the adjusters, most of which were pretty rough hours following Racerone3 at Busco. It's arguably an imperfect system, but I've had no problems with the unistrut staying tight. You can easily double up on the torque-down bolts and even make up your own rollers, or use a sprocket instead. I'm running an original roller, one of Race's he lent me, and two idler sprockets on the primary chains off the transmission.

My first thought on the Swamp Fox is to use something similar to the unistrut for the four secondary chains, and idler sprockets (non-unistrut) on the primaries. Thinking about it a bit more, I don't see why I couldn't use unistrut on the primaries (a-la' Hustler).... There's just another method I'd like to challenge myself to build and evaluate, and this is the perfect chance to try it out.

I still don't know about the floorboard; Lots of options, and I'd like to be able to have a poly skid plate under the machine. If I could countersink the rivets into an HDPE plate on the underside and have it pass all the way through a 3/8" (or so) floor board. That's a bit ambitious, and those long rivets get expensive fast.

Noel! You're wripping it apart! Good for you.... I'm envious of the splined axles. I wish I had the funds to get a set for mine, but as per usual, I stretch myself thin on too many hobbies. Post pictures as you go along; whatching folks build stuff is exciting....

[Stonewall]

Just adding to the Hustler chain adjuster topic there, if you use sprockets on those, make sure the channels are alot closer to where the chain. I tried to put sprockets on the stock adjusters in my Hustler, and every time I went in reverse, they got in a bind and threw the chain. Since mine is currently apart, I built some adjusters better suited to sprockets:
(sorry for the crappy image quality)

[hydromike]

(sorry for the crappy image quality)

Your crappy image isn't crappy at all! When I first saw this, I thought it was a great idea. I still do! You're having binding issues? It's odd, because my 980 does the same thing in reverse. It's not bad enough to throw a chain, but it's a light click-click-click, which I usually attribute to shark-finned sprockets on the idlers, sprocket tubes or T-20 itself.

You kind of trailed off (or I didn't understand) where you said:

...... make sure the channels are alot closer to where the chain. I tried ...

????

There was something important there.... I missed it....

[Stonewall]

Your crappy image isn't crappy at all! When I first saw this, I thought it was a great idea. I still do! You're having binding issues? It's odd, because my 980 does the same thing in reverse. It's not bad enough to throw a chain, but it's a light click-click-click, which I usually attribute to shark-finned sprockets on the idlers, sprocket tubes or T-20 itself.

Mine threw chains with my first attepmt at sprocket tensioners, which is why I abandoned that idea for a while. When I put some new nylon rollers on it, I still got the clicking like you(even with new chains and sprockets), but it didn't throw the chains anymore.

You kind of trailed off (or I didn't understand) where you said: ????

There was something important there.... I missed it....

Sorry for trailing off like that there, I was refering to the problem with my first failed attempt at sprocket adjusters. The channel (especially on the right side) is too far away from the chain that the sprocket had to be way out on the bolt, and as a result, the force of the chain against it in reverse would push it up and angle the sprocket until it ran the chain off. Here are some pictures of them, I wish I had a few of the right side, since it was where the biggest problem was, but all I have is pics of the left.

...I was just thinking, you should put AMS Swamp Fox tires on your Super Swamp Fox....

[hydromike]

...I was just thinking, you should put AMS Swamp Fox tires on your Super Swamp Fox....

I would, but that would force the universe to implode, and none of us would have the pleasure of existing any longer. I think you were definitely on the right track with your sprocket idea. It was just a matter of support. I was actually thinking of using the UHMW rollers on the primary chains off the T20, but just haven't gotten there yet. This should just about eliminate any clicking, clunking, or chatterling (fabricated word) of the machine in reverse...

I honestly don't know which direction I'll go with the 'Fox. I really like UHMW sliders and rollers. I modified one one Max II HDPE-style adjuster to work with Uni-strut (I never took a picture) on the right-rear chain of the 980, and I love it. It'll never bend (it's 1/4" angle) and it seems to be perfect for the application. I'll head down to RI at some point and see if they'll sell me some more parts to make more of my own...

[Stonewall]

I chose the sprocket adjusters over the plastic ones because they help keep the chain in line better, last longer, create less resistance, and are much easier to come by. (and they're reasonably priced at $6-8 each.) I still havn't come up with a good way to put sprocket adjusters on the rear of my Hustler(I havn't found a good way to put rollers on there either....), but I have some ideas...

If I had the money and the resources, I would ditch the chains completely and use 2 shafts running lengthwise connected to a gearbox on each axle. I even drew up a transmission design to use that incorporated HI and LO gears and an automotive style torque converter (NO BELT!!!), but like I said, I don't have the money or the resources required to build something like that. (hopefully after college....)

[lewis]

What kind of axles are you running in the Fox Mike? 1 inch..1.25 tube or splined? Great looking machine and can't wait to see it!

[Tomo]

hi ,
If u look at different swamp foxes there are 3 different ways of adjusting the primary [t20] chains
1/ t20 slides with puller bolts which can be locked in position
2/ idler sprockets mounted between 2x slotted plates coming up from the tube cross member .
3/tilting transmission ,similar to the Argo idea

90% have the slide type
Don has posted a picture of his which is the tilt and slotted plate design

tomo
must go back into the shed "Hic"might just open another