I've seen all the videos and I understand the benefits of Adair tracks in mud, swamp, and snow. However, while we plan to use our Argo in these conditions, we also want to use it on gravel roads, paved roads, and less-aggressive terrain.
What surfaces or conditions don't Adair tracks work well on? And, is there a major wear factor on the machine or tracks if they're used on certain surfaces?
Lastly, how often do you need to adjust the tracks, and is it hard to do? Thank you.
Hi, I hope somebody will have answers about those tracks. I'm thinking of buying some but not sure yet. I would probably have to change my bearclaw 25X12X9. It get expensive if I have to.
Jack
I have never held a set of them in my hands, but I do know a bit about UHMW (Which I believe the Adair Tracks are made from). I don't think running them over Gravel, Pavement, Concrete, Rocks, or any hard/sharp material will do them any favors. From what I've seen (Same vids as you I presume) they work well in most all conditions. If they have a weak point, My guess is it will be where the track connects back to itself. Steel Pin and Loop is what I think they use. I've seen some very worn, and broken pins from riding in dry/gritty conditions. Running tracks is a bit harder on components like chains, bearings, and I've always found it harder to get your air pressures just right so the machine will track straight with tracks on. Track tension is adjusted with tire air pressure (To a point, don't overdo it)
All things considered, I too would love to have a set. They can't be that hard to put on or remove, so I would just take them off if I was going someplace where I thought they would be abused.
RD
I run them on my Argo 8x8 Frontier.
They swim well, run through the mud exceptionally well, and run surprising well in deep drifted snow. I have not had any adverse experiences with them yet, but learned that lateral stability on steep inclines is less that with just tires.
I doubt that they would do well on rocks.
To remove them, I deflate the front and rear tires, but don't know if that is the best way to do it or not.
I added rear bearing extensions when I ordered the machine to try and get ahead of wear issues with tracks.
The Adair tracks do not grip as well on rocks or over logs as a rubber track will. Since UHMW is very similar to what kitchen cutting board material is made out of, in my opinion , it,ll be a lot more durable than a rubber track when driven over pavement or gravel roads for extended periods The nice thing about the Adair tracks is their lighter over all weight when compared to a rubber track thats made for the same machine. The Adair tracks slide across dirt, concreate, pavement 50% easier than my rawhides do, so I think you,ll have a lot less stress on the bearings and chains. I don,t need to run axle extentions to run my 14 inch Adair tracks, and they only stick out two inches past my tub on either side. If you,re running 22" inch ,Adair snow tracks, you still don,t need to run axle extentions. You just add a 2 inch extention on the inside of the track ,and a 5-7 inch extension on the out side of the track. Even when running a 22" inch, Adair snow track, you,ll still have less bearing and axle stress when turning , when compared to a 22 inch rubber track. This is because the 2" inch inside and 5-7" inch outside track extensions pivote at 30 degrees., providing much easier turning in deep powder.
They connect with steel plates that hook through the linking chains on each side of the track held with two bolts each. Very stout. I can remove or install them in about 30 min.
I have three vehicles with Adair tracks. An Argo Frontier 650, A Super Swamp Fox, and a Max 2. All of which are exceptional in the mud. They are constructed of UHMW, and the connectors as described. I can get the tracks off and on in 30 minutes with motorcycle lifts. Rocks and rough terrain and plastic don't really go together. I think that a machine with these tracks exherts less wear and tear on the sprockets, bearings and chains than a set of aggressive tires. As a matter of fact, I now have the opinion that tires are old technology. A simple set of tires and Adair tracks is the way to go. I highly recommend them.
No one has addressed the adjustment issue-after about eight hours the chains will stretch, at this point you remove a grouser and cut your chain, then reattach everything. It's about a two hour job for one man the first time but gets easier with experience. After the first adjustment to tightness can pretty much be controlled with air pressure. As far as taking the tracks off, they come off in a few minutes but after you have run these tracks it is very hard to go back to tires, the ride is better and traction is so much better in mud. A bad mud hole that will stick your machine with tires becomes a breeze with Adair tracks.
When I am running down a trail I can't tell I have tracks on until I look over the side and see them spinning (They are that quite).
I ran with My 25x12x12 RawhideIII's long enough to get stuck in my pond and put the tracks right back on.
I am also of the opinion that these tracks are easier on your bearings and chains than big tires.
As far as wear goes, I am sure they will wear out but I have no idea how long that will take, but my guess is you will get a long life out of them.
What generation tracks did you encounter the stretch with, Dan?
The generation 10 tracks or the newest version with the heavier chains.Originally Posted by Bud
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