Wild Wolf keeps breaking RR axles

[jerseybigfoot]

Ok, here is my 2bits. The axle is being torqued by the drive bolt and the reaction load is from the axle to the tire. The drive tube can either help the strength of the axle if the tube clearance is minimal and the bolt fit is accurate .If the bolt is sloppy in the axle the bolt will act as a stress point to shear the axle from the outside to the center. The trick is to ream the axle bolt hole to fit the bolt so that the bolt acts as part of the axle not part of the tube.
As the Attex axles are 1" a 3/8 drive pin does not allow much material in the axle. I would drop the drive pin size down or increase the strength of the axle. I have some exotic material for my Attex 1" axles and so far so good. I also use 5/16" shoulder bolts.

[LarryW]

What about weld the sprocket tubes on. It would be like a scrambler. The tube would help strengthen it. You could take the axle out from the inside by taking the inside bearing out and sliding it in. Or maybe the taking the outer bearing off and slide the axle out so you can remove the axle from the inside bearing and pull up and in. If my 1st generation axles didn't have the 1" step down to 24mm I would weld the hubs on. But then there is the issue of heat weakening the axles.

[chris davison]

When welding a tube to a shaft dont weld around the shaft at the end of tube, this is where the shaft will break. Go as close to the center of the tube as you can drill a 1/2" or 5/8" hole and plug weld the tube to the shaft, preferably in several spots. The weakened by heat spot is small and supported by the tube. Let it cool by itself dont cool it off with water. Most times this weld can be removed with the same drill bit for dissassembly.

[JoeMeg]

Quoting jerseybigfoot "If the bolt is sloppy in the axle the bolt will act as a stress point to shear the axle from the outside to the center. The trick is to ream the axle bolt hole to fit the bolt so that the bolt acts as part of the axle not part of the tube." This is my opinion on pinned axle design also.

Joe.

[Dan Grover]

I had an Attex 400 Chief as a kid in 1975 and it was uncanny how many right rear axles I broke. It is still an inside joke today with a buddy that used to help me fix the axle. Back then I thought of things mentioned so far like a smaller diameter axle pin. One possible solution is when it breaks again, drill the axle hole closer to the inner or outer bearing. You will have to have cup washers and weld them in the new spot. Just a thought. Lastly you can try not to bounce or get airbourn. I found that difficult with that 399 JLO.

[racerone3]

Thanks to all for the tips. I'm trying to stick with the 3/8 bolt in the stock location for the simple reason that I build axles a bucket load at a time. I'd like to have them all the same. I already have to have a couple oddballs for the right center position on my 2 ST400 based machines.

I ended up making a new sprocket tube from some much heavier material, and adding 8 (4 per side) massive gussets from the sprocket down to the tube. I'm hoping that the old tube (very thin wall) was flexing too much. There was also evidence that the old tube had broken once and been rewelded. All axles on this machine have the bolt hole in the same location, however the RR sprocket is nearly dead center between the bearings, where the LR has the sprocket much closer to the inner bearing. I would have to think that this puts more load on the RR

[L.D.Bruce]

I had a broken right rear axle on my super chief and a broken axle on the front right which I just fixed couple of days ago. both broke at the sprocket sleeve bolt hole. They may have been broken when I bought it with the locking collar on the outside bearing you would never know until it fails and the axle slips out. I talked to a steel guy that told me using hardened steel axles they will break before the bend I don't know what type of steel was used I have been replacing with cold rolled I made up 10 axles and have been replacing bearings as needed. Lucky for me the machine is in nice shape and everything comes apart with ease

[racerone3]

The Wild Wolf has pretty much been relegated to the "loaner machine" slot in the lineup. As such it is frequently driven by people with little or no experience, and on the rare occasion that I drive it, I drive it like a rental. I finished the rebuild on the machine almost exactly 2 years ago... the Saturday before fall Busco, and have probably put 20 axles in it sense between the breaking RR's and bending axles everywhere else. It, along with the tank trainer will eventually get upgraded to splined 1 1/4. Hopefully what I've done on this sprocket tube will beef it up. I plan to bring it to Busco next week and let my Niece see if she can destroy it again

Generally speaking, when I break an axle in the Wolf, I know it instantly. It looses drive to that corner and won't climb out of a mud hole. the last 2 breaks have resulted in the RR tire getting folded around the back of the machine and a chain wadded up in the sprockets so it was abundantly clear.

[amphibious drew]

I too have been having rr axles breaking. last night I put a 4140 keyed sproket axle on. it always broke at the sprocket bolt hole so I figured the keyway may solve the problems. results to be reported after busco.

[L.D.Bruce]

I went on a pulled all axles on the left side I'm glad I did I had a cracked axle on left front and sprocket sleeve hole on left rear was wallered out pretty good. Changing all the bearings the super chief is to fast to be taking chances I should have it back up and going tomorrow