my 6x6 frontier has about 50 hours on it...i have the escargo tracks on it and i can go through, over, or around pretty much anything but i have lost a noticeable amount of power...what are some effective ways to get it back??
my 6x6 frontier has about 50 hours on it...i have the escargo tracks on it and i can go through, over, or around pretty much anything but i have lost a noticeable amount of power...what are some effective ways to get it back??
I would say that gearing it down, changing the clutch spring in your driven clutch, or maybe add a K&N filer and a free flowing, less restrictive exhaust would be a good start.
"Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
Yeah, and if the clutch on the engine has the 3 lead weights, they could be lightened to increase the engine's working rpm. I like that a lot, it also lets the cvt gear down easier and sooner when you decelerate and then load the engine again, on acceleration or a hill.
To Invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. (Thomas Edison)
Hey Roger could you go into more detail about this modification and how it works? By lessening the weight does the clutch lose any ability?
Can you tell us if the Escargo tracks swim?Originally Posted by Y2KADLE
Jerry
It raises the engine rpm across the CVT's operation. It also raises the engine speed that the belt engages at. With a tach, I noticed my engine rpm stayed constant as the CVT would run out and finally "lock up". My new engine wanted to rev, but the centrifugal weights I'm talking about just closed up the engine clutch shivs, geared up the cvt and limiting rpm. My late '90's argo clutch is different than the later stuff and max's so can't comment ..
my weights were 16 oz i think, I took off 1/3 of an oz off each one and it raised the belt engagement rpm about 200 or so. Which i didn't care about but it raised the operating rpm 500 under mild load to a 1000 under full throttle, where my engine had a lot more to offer. Argo has two weight sets for my old style. I had the heavier of the two, and lightened them to below the other lighter factory weights.
To Invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. (Thomas Edison)
OK, what do you know about clutch failure. I was working on one with a new clutch and when it is under load it sounds like a rod knocking or a machine gun going off. I switched out the clutch and the noise was gone.
I didn't take the clutch that was making noise apart and was wondering if was defective or if the weights were wrong for the application. It is something I have not seen before.
what vehicle and year was it, Jerry..
mine has a big nut that holds a dished cover. the cover will lift off and there's three lead slugs riding in phenolic moldings that do the actual movement as the weights sling out. If that's what you're working with, just take it apart, it's simple to understand. The phenolic shoes/pucks whatever they are called, run in channels and have quite a lot of clearance. They cracked and came apart on my original clutch, I think from heat and age, letting the lead slugs get mashed up, and the clutch operation was all wrong. Basically there are weights, their holders, and bushings the shivs slide on, those are the parts that wear. My new clutch is noisy at idle, it sounds like a rod knocking. It's the clearance between the pucks and their guides slapping on each power stroke. I can take the clutch off the engine and the noise is gone. There's no noise under load. If you're working on a max they're built different so disregard everything I said
To Invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. (Thomas Edison)
The clutch was a comet 780. It was not on a Max. I was under warranty so I sent it in for an exchange. I have not gotten the replacement back yet.
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