Last edited by whipper-ag; 07-13-2016 at 02:04 PM.
I didn't know that, but I will take it under advismentOriginally Posted by whipper-ag
18 cuts???You know that you can do that in 6 cuts with a Parallel spline single milling cutter. You would want P/N F6-125B for the right minor dia. & key. This cutter cuts a 1.060 minor. Call Ash Gear & Supply in Novi, MI 248-374-6155. Make sure the axles run true.
WhipperI should have specified 18 cuts with a 1/4" end mill. I was just working with the tooling in the cabinet at work. It got the job done, but the next time I need splines (when the Pimpfoot gets it's turn for an upgrade), you are getting the job. These were pretty easy working off the existing splines, but I have no desire to try splines starting from scratch!
A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.
Half way there!
Burned the midnight oil the last few nights, and the tank trainer now has 4 of it's 8 axles upgraded. I installed one axle on thursday night, only to discover the inner race was rubbing on the frame rail. Friday at work (slow day) I built some 3/16 spacers to move the bearings out (with the skid plate wrapping up the sides, I didn't think I would need the spacers).
The Argo axles are a little shorter than the stock Attex units. I will end up losing 2 inches of tread width overall. Tires shouldn't rub on the body like that, and the tank is incredibly stable, so I will probably leave it that way. The Wild wolf on the other hand, will probably get 1" wheel spacers and longer studs to maintain it's current width.
A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.
Machining the splines from scratch shouldn't be any big issue (especially using a side-type cutter) if you'll use a hex fixture block to fit the axle shank.
You may have to make your own for 1.25" stock, but that's no big deal- just make it long enough to hang out of the end of the vise and use a couple of set screws to secure the stock as opposed to a collet.
Be sure that you set your cutter to the correct center height with the axle /fixture in the vise, then it's just a matter of bringing your Y axis into the axle to the correct depth of spline and feeding the X axis for the length of spline desired.
Finished The last 2 axles last night and got them installed. Went out this morning and bolted tires on to get my first look at the new narrow stance.
I'm still up in the air as to weather I like the look. I'll study on it for a few weeks and see if it grows on me. If not, I will have to invest in a pile of wheel spacers.
I have run the machine on stands, but haven't gotten to drive it yet. There are 2 sprockets that have a bit more run-out than I would like. I don't think they will cause any issued in the short run, but will get redone as soon as I can come up with the parts to do it. One HUGE advantage to the upgrade is being able to move each sprocket on an axle without moving another. With the stock sprocket tubes, I had to make some major compromises in chain alignment.
I still have some things to finish up before she gets a test drive. But hopefully within about a week she will be rolling.
A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.
funny, I had the 2 types of argo axles in my hands and the only different I could remember of was the wheel flange being thicker on the HDI... what I'm sure is that we made the HDI bearing conversion using the original pre-HDI axles... as on RockDoctor's video
2008 MAX-IV 500T 30hp Bandolero
These were commercially owned machines. All of these axles have the typical seal grooves in them. I suspect the company's that owned them requested new parts. (Sadly) I don't own an Argo, nor am I really up on the differences between the parts for the HDI upgrade
Last edited by racerone3; 12-10-2011 at 03:40 PM.
A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.
Looks good Race! Nice work! Wide looks more aggressive or cool but just seems weaker looking in my eyes. You have the stronger axles but it would put more stress on the inner frame rails too. With stiffer axles Im not sure what it would do to the frame. I think the frames a weak point in the trainers. I'm not sure, you might not have problems at all. I'm just saying might be something to keep in mind.
Iam pretty sure thats the only difference,I just ordered a upgrade to hdi and getting axles too,the reason for the flange change is durability there has been issues with flange breaking especially with rubber track use under some circumstances,so I figured in for a penny in for a pound if I tear into it do it all the way and bullet proof them,that said Obsessed is putting the finishing touch,s on his track tuners and this will put a end to drive line windup so prevalent to rubber track system.N.C.T
I think the other difference is that the flat area machined on the axles for the outer bearing set screw is in a slightly different place. If you use the older style axles you just have to extend the existing flat towards the hub a little.
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