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Gave it another try, this time I let the mixture sit in a sealed container for a while to consolidate a bit before I applied it. I also put it on thinner and tried not to work it too much, the next day it was a lot harder than the other time. I think thin layers are the trick. I also did a brush over with acetone to keep the surface wet longer, don't know if it helped or not but I guess it can't hurt.
Hey JRP3, Glad its working better for you. I tried the welding before and it didnt work very well like the abs goop.
That abs goop is abs and after the acetone evaps there is no non like material left. Attex actually sold the same idea in a body repair kit and I have also hear attex and amphicat gooped up the seams of the upper and lower tubs before they stapled them.
If I can find some MEK I'm going to try that instead of acetone, I've heard it might work better than acetone and I think that's what Oatey uses in their black ABS glue. So far I've only found a gallon container of it, much more than I'll ever need. I might try some of the Oatey stuff as well since I have a few cracks in the black engine cover.
I used PLF 400 subfloor adhesive and fiberglass tape on my '96 Max IV. It worked great, and I plowed at -20 with it all winter, and no cracks. Damage was in wheel well.
Car bumper repair kits work well, I have used them on quad plastics and Argo bodies. It uses a chemical reaction to bond the repair patch to the plastic.
This what i repaired the Crush with. It can actually be used to fill hole like a body filler. Make sure your parts are where you want them when you glue up, because once dried it is over. Can be sanded and painted.
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