hustler 5 pole key switch wiring diagram

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Thread: hustler 5 pole key switch wiring diagram

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Clinton, NC
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    229

    hustler 5 pole key switch wiring diagram

    Ive a 5 pole key switch. I need the diagram of that baby and how the hustler is wired. Hustler has a BS 18hp & a 3 post solenoid.

    zoood

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Oconee County, SC
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    823
    Check my Gallery.. Dan67, Hustler 980/950 Build. I have several diagrams for Briggs 5 pole and 6 pole. Check them to see what resembles the wiring on your motor. Its either..



    or..



    Or you can upgrade to a 6 pole switch, I have the diagrams for those as well in my Gallery..

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Clinton, NC
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    I see that my key switch didnt have a ground. Also instead of hooking up the amp gauge. How would I tie in a voltage gauge instead?


    Quote Originally Posted by Dan67 View Post
    Check my Gallery.. Dan67, Hustler 980/950 Build. I have several diagrams for Briggs 5 pole and 6 pole. Check them to see what resembles the wiring on your motor. Its either..



    or..



    Or you can upgrade to a 6 pole switch, I have the diagrams for those as well in my Gallery..

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    statesville, north carolina
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    2,604
    heavy guage red wire from battery to ignition switch terminal "B"
    Black wire from frame to switch Terminal "G"
    yellow wire from switch pole "S" to small terminal on solenoid
    green wire from "M" (magneto) terminal on switch to the kill stud on the engine... flat twin briggs it should be under the intake manifold halfway between the carb and the cylinder closest to the front of the machine.
    "L" terminal on the ignition switch is where you hook the headlights... I also tie the charge wire here (single red wire coming out of the voltage regulator) so that power from the battery can't backfeed when the switch is off (this can fry a briggs regulator).
    If you want to run a volt guage, I would also tie it into the "L" terminal. that way it is turned off when the ignition is off. hook the positive to the "L" and the negative to "G"
    A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Clinton, NC
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    Looking at the diagram I see that the number 5 on the switch back is for the lights. Turned out that the toggle I was using for the lights, (cause Im trying to make the side dash panel look as nice as Dan's.) was faulty. However the rest of the wiring was hooked up correctly except for the key switch, it wasn't grounded.

    Also I love this sight! No BS! Get answers heck of a lot faster and correct too compared to most motorcycle sites I visit with questions.

    Thank you both!
    zoood

    zoood


    Quote Originally Posted by racerone3 View Post
    heavy guage red wire from battery to ignition switch terminal "B"
    Black wire from frame to switch Terminal "G"
    yellow wire from switch pole "S" to small terminal on solenoid
    green wire from "M" (magneto) terminal on switch to the kill stud on the engine... flat twin briggs it should be under the intake manifold halfway between the carb and the cylinder closest to the front of the machine.
    "L" terminal on the ignition switch is where you hook the headlights... I also tie the charge wire here (single red wire coming out of the voltage regulator) so that power from the battery can't backfeed when the switch is off (this can fry a briggs regulator).
    If you want to run a volt guage, I would also tie it into the "L" terminal. that way it is turned off when the ignition is off. hook the positive to the "L" and the negative to "G"
    Last edited by zoood; 02-04-2012 at 07:57 PM. Reason: answered my own question

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Clinton, NC
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    229
    I ran into problems. I attached a diagram of the wiring schematic I'm using and a few extra switches. The back of the key switch, I labeled with what color wires there were.
    Following previous directions. Only the engine cranks. The light switch I'm using works in reverse. Meaning when i hook up the battery. The lights lite without the light switch being enabled. When I enable the light switch. The LED indicator lamp lights, but the lights go out! On my key switch or the solenoid. There's no terminal labels. The two other switches I have in the diagram work fine. With the diagram I provided and the new light switch I want to use. Can someone please connect the dots for me? and label them as well?



    zoood

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Oconee County, SC
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    Clean the back of the switch very well. There should be a letter stamped on the spade terminals or right beside each terminal to identify each. Sorry I don't still have the old switch, I threw it in the trash because I did not need it. I used the new 6pole switch that came with my 23hp vanguard.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Clinton, NC
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    I went and bought a new key switch. The old one had no markings. I rewired the plug for the switch like racerone3 suggested. It didnt work correctly. I went through everything and found a connection that should have went to ground, but was hooked up to +. After correcting that. It all works fine. Now I can throw my comb away! Again thanks for your help.

    RJ


    Quote Originally Posted by Dan67 View Post
    Clean the back of the switch very well. There should be a letter stamped on the spade terminals or right beside each terminal to identify each. Sorry I don't still have the old switch, I threw it in the trash because I did not need it. I used the new 6pole switch that came with my 23hp vanguard.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Oconee County, SC
    Posts
    823
    np, glad everything is working now!

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