jlo440 seems to not want to run

  1. Welcome to 6x6 World.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. Looking forward to seeing you in the forums and talking about AATVs!
+ Reply to Thread
Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 50

Thread: jlo440 seems to not want to run

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    672
    *
    Are you sure its not a WY or WZ series carb....they have a screw and large washer instead of *the needle on top
    Does the screw turn when the throttle is opened.

    The wda52 is a bigger carb. *The size of the carb is based on how the engine breathes...from the intake to the exhaust and everything in between.
    A wda52 probably has a different size jet on the 400cc than it would on the 440cc
    You can try it to see if it starts but tuning it might be difficult.

    Heres some info
    http://www.vintagesleds.com/library/...-WD-WDA-WR.pdf

  2. #22
    The carbs are stamped:
    WDA 52
    WDA 4

    The WDA4 was on the engine I bought that supposedly ran. This is the carb that I rebuilt and currently have on the JLO 440 in the Max.
    The WDA52 was on the engine that was in the 6 wheeler when I bought it. At that time, the engine was locked up as the PO ran it without a fanbelt and burned up the piston. .

    My WDA 52 is missing the power needle and has a screw where the needle would have been.

    Thanks for the link! That is great.

    Chris

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    lombard IL
    Posts
    86
    The JLO 440 that was stock in my 1970 articat panther snowmobile ran the same way after its rebuild. I tried everything with no luck. turned out the mag and pto seals on the crankshaft were dry and bad sucking air. you can check this out by sealing off the intake and exaust ports of the engine and hooking a hand vacume pump to the block port where you get pulse vacume for your fuel pump. should hold vacume. I believe it is about 9 inch pounds. hope this helps you out, let me know. Rob

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    672
    Look at page 1 of the first manual i posted.
    Is that the screw on top you are talking about?
    If yes its not missing the needle. The screw should turn with the throttle.
    Pg 23 describes how it works

  5. #25
    MOderate success. Hi all, I have been moderately successful in getting the engine running. I cranked the idle jet screw out and close the choke a bit. So, it seems that it is starving. I was able to have a decent idle ...not racing as before. I think that it was starving for fuel.

    I was using the electric start until the battery died and then went to pull start. I think I broke my finger pull starting it. Dangit!

    Anyway, I was getting closer to having it run. I placed a clamp on the impulse line where it mounts to the carb...just to eliminate any air leakage. Also pulled the carb completely apart and adjusted the float needle arm..not sure if that helped.

    I stopped as I was smoking myself out of hte garage...hope to mess with it this weekend.

    I did buy a set of mikunis from a gentleman off of his JLO 440. These were on an ATTEX...so new question: on my MAX, the engine sits rocked backwards. The attex apparently sat more upright...is that a problem for the carbs?

    Thanks
    Chris

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Buffalo, NY area
    Posts
    2,968
    Hey Chris,

    On the Attex, the JLO sat "perfectly" upright. This likely will be an issue with your carbs, since the float bowls on the Mikunis need to sit level. You have a couple options, neither of which are really all THAT easy to persue.

    *you can build a new engine mount to level the engine out, which may require substantial changes to exhaust, drive belt etc.
    *you can either find (if they exist) or build flanges that will keep the engine at its angle and level the carbs out.

    Regardless, the carbs need to be level.

  7. #27
    Ugh...OK...Anyone need a set of Mikunis with intakes from an ATTEX JLO 440?

    I will be getting them in the next few days and will evaluate the situation...altering the engine mount will run the exhaust manifold into the belt unless I raise the engine up...which then will end up hitting the body.

    Sounds like I made another blunder...unless I can turn it around. I think the option here is to modify the manifolds. We will see if they are aluminum or steel.

    Question for you carb gurus: are the jets different between a WDA4 and a WDA 52.

    When I pulled the WDA4 apart, the Idle circuit did not have a jet in it...the jet seemed to be a part of the housing. Additionally, it did not appear that there was a jet on the HS side...wheras the WDA52 had a brass jet in both places.

    Thanks
    Chris

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    672
    Can you post a pic of the carb you are working with?

  9. #29
    OK, I finally had time to load some picture of the carbs. I am not sure how to link to the pictures but they are in the ENGINE category in the gallery. I just loaded them so they should be some of hte latest loaded pictures. I am going to try to link to a picture...hopefully that will workJLO 440 in Max carburetors - Amphibious ATV Pictures If this link works, there should be a number of pictures of the carbs.

    Really quick..I was able to get it running this AM...but I have to run with the choke closed slightly...and then it runs at high RPMs as I ran the HS needle and idle needle out...I did notice that when I squirt fuel oil mixture in the carb that, if sprayed at the throttle shaft, fuel will spritz out of the shaft area. I grabbved the shaft and wiggled it...it is not super loose but could this be some of the problem with the engine not running? It is not crazy noodled out.

    Thanks Bazoo guy and all for your help...I am just really frustrated with this darn thing!

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    lombard IL
    Posts
    86
    check the damn crank seals !!!!!!

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts