Electrical problem?

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Thread: Electrical problem?

  1. #1

    Electrical problem?

    My 2010 diesel Ox just decided not to start anymore. It won't turnover. I've checked and charged the battery and it appears fine. The engine block/coolant heater has been kept plugged in. I've checked and replaced every fuse and relay that I can find, but it still won't turnover. There is power going to the solenoid, power to the dash and all the lights and fans come on. I've checked the E-brake and can't find any issue with it. I'm not the only one having this problem right now. Two machines and both are having the same issue.

    Any thoughts?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    saskatchewan
    Posts
    378
    did you check the wires to your ignition switch one could be loose or fallen off just had that on my predator with a turbo diesel

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Ontario Canada
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    672
    Quote Originally Posted by alaskadiehard View Post
    There is power going to the solenoid
    When you turn the key to start position is there power coming out of the solenoid to the starter?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kings Mountain, NC
    Posts
    7,788
    If you jump the solenoid will it start?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    statesville, north carolina
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    2,604
    If you have power to the small post on the solenoid when you turn the key to "start", I would suspect that the solenoid is junk. The other thing to check would be that the solenoid is well grounded. run a jumper wire from the metal case or mounting bracket of the solenoid to Battery - and try again. If it still won't crank, do like Mike said, take a old pair of needle nose pliers that you don't care if you ruin (the current of what your about to do can possibly weld them together), open the pliers and stick the tips to the 2 large terminals of the solenoid. this should get the engine to spin over (even if the key isn't on). I've never worked on a Mudd-ox so I don't know what type of solenoid it has, but many machines come with a CHEAP lawn and garden type. If this is the case, replace it with a ford type. Note: the lawn and garden ones have 5/16" terminals, and the ford ones have 3/8 so you will have to change the ring terminals on your wires. Also the connection for the small wire will probably be different.
    A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    672
    You can use a booster cable to bypass the solenoid and save your pliers.
    Also check for corrosion and clean all the terminals from the battery to solenoid and starter including the ground as mentioned above. After sitting they can corrode and not make contact.

  7. #7
    Finally fixed the problem. It took some time to track down, but was a poor ground connection on the e-brake. It had a good enough connection that the dash light indicated when the brake was engaged but when it was under load when trying to start, it wouldn't carry the load.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    152
    Kyle I'm glad you found the problem I had not heard from you so I assumed it was fixed. Enjoy the spring riding. One problem Mudd-Ox's have is the powder coat is so thick sometimes the ground connections are not as strong as they need to be.
    Mark

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