Here is the full lenght bearing extensions! and the modified frame
Frame looks good
that dont look like a hilbilly... rain rain go a way.... winter come some other day.
Here is the full lenght bearing extensions! and the modified frame
Frame looks good
that dont look like a hilbilly... rain rain go a way.... winter come some other day.
Last edited by spookum; 08-26-2012 at 02:25 AM.
"I want alll that... in.... here" - XXX (aka vin diesel)
stabing axels in - Amphibious ATV Pictures
Looking good. Notice the plow bracket?
stabing axels in - Amphibious ATV Pictures
Running 3 bearings per axel. If that dont keep from breaking....
stabing axels in - Amphibious ATV Pictures
Looking like an argo. Tub is saggin almost 3 inches under the metal tub. Dont know if i should try to pull it up. or wait for the full body skid plate another day. it ATE a 52 MM jack shaft bearing.
stabing axels, and jack shaft too - Amphibious ATV Pictures
yah baby
not sure what to do about this. The chain is touching the adjuster arm. That cant be good. If i put the adjuser on the other side of the bracket, i think the adjuster will hit the frame and bend. Looks like i need to move the sprocket over....
If you look really hard at the picture, you can see the wear marks on the cross brace of the frame (middle left side of the pic). Looks to me like the chains were off. Measured the jack shaft to second axel. Yep, their out of alighnment. So, that is what happens when you put your inboard bearings in backwards. The allen headed set screws and thicker coller needs to be touching the washer, not inside the frame. Easy fix, loosen set screws, flip inboard bearings around, re tighten. Just time consuming when the G-10 wants to run.....
Last edited by spookum; 08-31-2012 at 12:59 PM.
need to fix an exhaust leak and to take it for a spin. Hope the engaggemnt RPM isnt REALLY that high!
Last edited by spookum; 06-13-2013 at 12:24 AM.
This is why i am runing a P-85 polaris primary. They are all the same. Other snow mobile manufacturers change the desighn of their clutches. Polaris really never has. They even use a smaller P-85 style clutch in their ATVs.
I dont yet know much about these clutches. I do know that to engage the belt you have the weights that fly around in a circle createing a cintripital force. when this force is great enough to over come the spring, the belt engages.
I have learned, from the snow machine forums, that the spring is the key factor in base engagement RPM (measured at 2.5 inces) and total shift out RPM (measured at 1.19inces). The weights should be used to fine tune this curve of engagement RPM and total shift out. You can shave material off the "shoulder" nearest the hole and get the machine to "hit" harder. The driven clutch does not matter in theis equation, it is most useful in "back shift"
In theory if i have a spring like my orange one that engages at 2500 rpm and total shift out at 9000 rpm, i can shift that down by changing the spring weight alone.
My orange spring is a 70 lb / 199 lb spring. I have several options
My current favorate is the green spring, it is a 42/142 spring, and not only used in sleds but also used in ATVS But i dont know if it is long enough
i also like the yellow, 44/185
The ultimate clutch weight would be the heel clicker. (google that!!! want a set for my RMK!!!!)
let me know what you think, and im not opposed to any crazy ideas!
http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/fo...s-spring-chart
But before i do anyhting, i should probbably hook a tack up and see what it is really doing!
Last edited by spookum; 09-20-2012 at 10:34 PM.
yah, the cluthing is REALLY that high. I have the green spring on the way ( i hope) Special thanks to mark of 2-D max, for the redicoulsous amount of help! Also thanks to MiteyMt for the insperation, and NorthCountryTough and ROCKdoctor... SMOG and all the others amnd Obsesed!. Y'll kept me beleiving!
WIth out further adue;
Good video to watch the clutch.. Come on guys lets go for a ride!.... wait it runs this hard on 2 cylenders????? WOW Never had a spark plug wire fall out of the distributor before LOL
http://<a href="http://www.youtube.c... - YouTube</a>
HIgh speed pass time.... Got it to WOT and about 1/2 shift out....
http://<a href="http://www.youtube.c... - YouTube</a>
Special thanks again to all the helped... dang i need a hair cut!!!
Last edited by spookum; 06-16-2013 at 04:55 PM.
Spookum, you've created a monster! I LOVE it! Very nice work. It sounds amazing and unlike most Argos that I've seen and driven there is no hesitation when this one turns. That engine sounds great.....I'll certainly be replaying those videos over and over.
"Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
Awesome!
I agree. This is a nice powerplant for an amphib sized machine. I didn't feel the same when the 1.0Liter was in a Chevy Sprint I owned back in 1986 but thats another story.Originally Posted by jpswift1
Spookum, you've created a monster! I LOVE it! Very nice work. It sounds amazing and unlike most Argos that I've seen and driven there is no hesitation when this one turns. That engine sounds great.....I'll certainly be replaying those videos over and over.
There are three ways to get performance out of an Argo with the differential steering. 1) lower the gearing, The 3.3 gears even with an 18hp give performance comparable to a Hustler 980 / Max4 with 18 horses. 2) Raise the power. Argos perform really well with even the 23hp motor when turning, Adair Argo has transplanted larger engines in and they feel like a t20 when turning. 3)Adair tracks: even older machines with 16-18hp steer very well with the tracks.
My Argo Frontier has 2.6 gears, 23hp, and Adair tracks. It compares very favorably with any other amphib I've driven. The newer Argos with the Admiral steering transmission feel even better.
Its all relative. Spookum I think you have done a fantastic job on the transplant. This should raise the bar on engine conversions and I think the documentation thread you gave us will be a step by step tool that others will use. Keep the vids coming man.
YOu should see it in low range!!!!!!!! Dont forget, i think i could have left that 16 HP tecumse in there and put the polaris primary and secondary on THAT. all of my research pointed to the BEST stock argo or max or comet clutch ratio as being a 2:1. Polaris is a 4:1.... that doubles the low end right there! IT takes some shimming on the trans to get keep it from hitting the breaks, but a more modern machine with hydralic breaks will not have quite the clearnce issues i had! Also, there is somone on this site who should be setting up his machine shop to BUILD adapters. He said it he may be moved into his shop by this fall.
The thing is, that if your going to spend the time to fabricate motor mounts, run new wiring, figure out a new CVT system why not go this route? For dependability and price, i dont think you can beat it. For the cost of upgrading a modern argo to a remote mount altinator (300 bucks) i bought a complete geo metro.... granted the engine was seized but it ran when it was parked!
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
