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Hi everyone, I'm new here. Over the next few weeks I will be rebuilding an Action Age Scrambler 1200, year unknown. It was given to me in pieces, but the fiberglass is good so I think it's going to be worth rebuilding.
The bad:
No tires or rims. But the previous owner built some plates that let you bolt on 4 wheeler rims. It really only used those 3 little bolts to hold on a tire?
Clutch material is falling apart. I know clutch material can be bought at tractor supply, anyone have any idea what it is that I will need and how much?
Chains are all gone. I haven't checked the manual yet, I'm hoping it's a common size though.
Motor doesn't run. It's a Tecumsah, he said 11 horse? Was that ever offered or is it a replacement? It needs a new stator, it was running fine before that went. Now it's pieces in a box. Is it a motor worth fixing or should I just throw something else in? What would fit without major fabrication?
Other than that it needs cleaning and all that fun stuff, and in good shape for being from the early 70's. I brought it home in the rain so I haven't had a chance to really dig into it yet, but I think its going to be a fun project over the next few weeks. Overall plan is get it running, get it driving, then I will worry about making it pretty. Hopefully questions are welcome
I hate to rain on your parade, but you really should sharpen your pencil and add up all these things to buy BEFORE you start. It is very easy to have far more $ into one of these projects than they are worth. Running driving scramblers can be bought for as little as $500. You could wind up with twice that into your rebuild.
lol watch out for cheap chain but buy a cheap motor. lol my suggestion would be find a good used Honda or Kawasaki motor or even Briggs.as far as the chain goes tsc is fine for a scrambler it really doesn't put much torque on them and there easy to get to for maint. some car quest stores have a shop that will line your drive clutches and breaks get the rotors turned as well. its actually cheap for a scrambler. With the drive clutch design it wont bind the chain when you break on one side to turn like most others. im not saying the duromax is junk its just coasts 3 times less than well known brands. and i don't know of any commercial or hard working power equip. with the duromax any were. in my 15 years at a john deer dealership. and since you got the four bolt check with some landscapers for rims and tires off of old Dixie chopper mowers they usually have piles of old spares that work great with military grade no flat. sure it will cost some $ but if you paid 2500 for a used argo most likly it will need seals and other work as well. good luck with your project.
Last edited by Flying Bone; 06-27-2012 at 08:01 AM.
No rain, I knew after I looked at it that motor+tires+chain is going to set me back ~$1200. But where I'm located, things like this are very rare. Once in a while an argo or max will show up for sale, typically for $3-5K. The only scramblers I can find for sale right now, for example are about 4 hours away, are in pieces, and go for ~1K. I figure going the route that I am going I will know what is in it, know how to take it apart and work on it. Plus I will have the satisfaction of a project completed.
I spent some time at a Tecumseh dealer yeterday. The solid state coil/charger system needs to be replaced, but parts are no longer available. And anything I find online is ~$250, so it lookslik new engine. I plan on using one of these for an engine unless something used comes up:
If get the clutch and brake material myself, what do I use and how much of it? I see the materal on McMaster, just dont know what is on it now. I probably won't be able to pull it apart until next week to find out more.
It looks like I will need about 35' of #40 chain too, that sound about right? Is there anything else I should look at replacing while I'm working on it? I'm sure other things wll become apparent once I get it moving.
I used the 3/16 thick material from mcmaster carr on one scrambler-I also used the 1/4" material from mcmaster carr on another scrambler-the 1/16 extra thickness in clutch material meant I had to make the drive pin holes a little bigger.I also used jb weld to hold the clutch material and never had a problem.I also put the clutch material on the entire disc intead of just the outside circumference.I have never had a problem with tsc chain.40 feet will leave you a couple feet left over.I also used roller skate wheels for my homemade chain adjusters and they worked great-just like skateboard wheels.After the engine the chain is the most expensive part.Good luck and enjoy your project.-Most of the time you can get away with disassembling and cleaning all the hydraulic steering cylinders and brake cylinders if needed.Just take your time and ask questions here.Many good people will help you and there are many great pictures of the transmission and how it works in the gallery that helped me out.
I ordered wheels today, thanks for the link. I went to see if I could get the clutches and brake apart in between the rain. Unfortunately the rain came right back and I didn't have enough time to get the wrenches out. How does it come apart? It wasn't obvious as I stood there swatting mosquitos, is there a writeup anywhere? I understand how it works, and the cylinders for steering move in and out quite well. The brake cylinder moves a little, not sure if thats normal or just needs to be cleaned and bled. I also have a couple of sources that would resurface the brakes and clutch, I just need to get them off.
Take the transmission out and it will be much easier-there are snap rings on the end of each side-disassemble the 2 bolt bearing flange also.You will understand once the trans is removed.Its basically roll pins holding each part .Print yourself the transmission parts breakdown from this site and it will explain everything at a glance.
Thanks, roll pins and snap rings explain why I wasn't seeing how it bolted together at a glance. Looked like 2 bolts in the rear and something like 4 up front if I remember right. Any oddball tools needed?? Thanks for all the help so far!
replace the roll pins with hair pins when you reassemble.it will make future maint. and repairs a snap.as for the lifan they can be a good motor they use the same blueprints for design by honda but the internals are not of quality so they are a 50 50 on reliability. plus if going to use it in water a lot i would recommend a bilge pump.tho mine has no leaks water still finds its way in.
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