1995 MAX IV Axle/sprocket Fix

[2gnospam]

Hi. New to the forum and I have been doing a lot of reading. So far I have not come across this discussion (specifically number 2 below). I have a newly acquired MAX IV built in 1995 and am restoring it back to good working order. Last night I had all wheels off and was inspecting the axles and sprockets. All six sprockets have elongated holes (now slots) and 5 of six axles have elongated (sloppy) holes through them. My questions are:

1.) Do I oversize and match drill the holes in the axles and sprockets
2.) Has anyone added an additional new bolt to each sprocket at a different location. This would requires some serious drilling and might be best suited for a local machine shop, but I think it might have potential.
3.) Punt and buy new axles and sprockets. (If so where is the best place to do this?). Has anyone upgraded from through hole axles to the new splined axles? What is the relative cost and is it "worth it".

[Noel Woods]

Hello:
I think new axles, sprockets, and upgraded bearings are the way to go. Its the priciest alternative, however you will have a machine thats as good as new afterwards. I had forum member Whipper (who owns a machine shop) make my axles and sprockets, axles are heavy duty and splined, and I had him add some length so that the machine has more inside clearance in the wheel wells. I also opted for heat treating of the parts for a much longer life-span. I utilized Argo bearings and carriers which are pretty rugged.
I have two machines that have the pinned axles and they work well, but since your machine seems prime for the upgrade, I'd bite the bullet and pay the higher cost for splined.
If you contact Whipper directly, he will give you a fair price, and I've found his goods and services to be top notch.

[brushcutter]

WHAT!?!?! and get away from sheared bolts, wallowed/elongated holes and all the fun of dealing with the aftermath of getting said sheared bolt wound up in a sprocket!?!?! Have you lost your mind Noel???


couldn't resist Just kidding... what Noel said... it will cost more, but you will NOT regret it!

[2gnospam]

Hello:
I think new axles, sprockets, and upgraded bearings are the way to go. Its the priciest alternative, however you will have a machine thats as good as new afterwards. I had forum member Whipper (who owns a machine shop) make my axles and sprockets, axles are heavy duty and splined, and I had him add some length so that the machine has more inside clearance in the wheel wells. I also opted for heat treating of the parts for a much longer life-span. I utilized Argo bearings and carriers which are pretty rugged.
I have two machines that have the pinned axles and they work well, but since your machine seems prime for the upgrade, I'd bite the bullet and pay the higher cost for splined.
If you contact Whipper directly, he will give you a fair price, and I've found his goods and services to be top notch.

Seems like the best alternative. I would consider also adding some width and am considering about an inch per side. What additional width did you go with? Will the axles made by Whipper support either MAX or Argo bearings? How are the axles retained (old style lock collars or new MAX style)? Would I get the Argo bearings and carriers directly from Argo?

Thanks for your input.

Gary

[Noel Woods]

Hey Gary:
Whipper can make nearly any additional length (within reason) axle. I think 1" additional will give you plenty more width. Either Argo or Recreative bearings will work, the Recreatives are pretty decent, Buffalo Bearing can get you a better version at a good price too, I forgot to mention them earlier. Just food for thought: Adair Argo has got a new bearing out, its totally synthetic. If you contact Tim at Adair he will hook you up, I know he is searching for build-jobs to continue prototyping these as they are just out on the market. The new style securing mechanism is pretty much universal for new parts.

[2gnospam]

Sent a few messages to Whipper and looks like we are going with 1.5" additional length. Should bring my 26" 12/12 tires to the edge of the overhang and still fit on my smaller trailer (5x8). I am rebuilding a carb and buying a cam, lifter and rev kit from Performance V-Twins to bring the engine up to 25 HP ungoverned. Considering the extra RPM and difference in low end torque (a little less) what sprocket tooth change would be appropriate? I assume the stock clutch and belt will be "ok".

[Noel Woods]

You are off to a great start. You will be good on the clutch but may want to go with a red spring in it. The belt will not change. I don't think you will need to go with a lower output shaft on the t20 or switch to lower gearing on the sprockets. If after the build is complete, you want lower gearing, its fairly easy to switch the output gear on the t20 and that will get you plenty of grunt (Whipper can do that for you too).