1995 MAX IV Rebuild Thread (Gary's)

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Thread: 1995 MAX IV Rebuild Thread (Gary's)

  1. #11
    MAX IV Roll Bar Cross Section.jpg
    I am adding a tub surround angle iron to have multiple locations to tie in the roll cage and mount the winch. This is a sketch of the roll cage and frame tie in. The front and rear hoops will be similar to stock but will have cross supports that will serve a couple of purposes. First they will permit bars to extend down and mount to the OEM frame (to prevent body sag). Additionally the rear cross piece will be the attachment point for a removable load carrying basket. Front cross member can act as a driver grab handle getting in and out, etc. I will also add down tubes in the rear to tie to the body surround. The basket (expanded metal), front and rear seats will all be removable via quick release pins to permit easy access to the drive train and reconfiguring for more cargo hauling. The basic idea here is to allow all of the passenger and storage rack weight to transfer to the wheels via the original frame. The roll hoops will act as body side supports (anti sag) and be there in the event of a roll over. Fab is coming along nicely. Main hoops are built. Working on the remaining portion of the tub surround tonight.

    Have now ordered new axles from Whipper.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Brooklyn, WI
    Posts
    885
    You will find that the support bar in back of the front seat might be a bit low. The height you have shown translates to about knee knocking height in my Max. By bringing it up to about the top height of the back of the seat or a bit above allows it to actually function as a grab bar not only for when driving but also for entry and exit of the vehicle. Also any cross bar that is low in the drivers area would be a possible knee banger also. The factory tubes on my cage are 1 5/8 so bringing anything that size into the tub seemed to take up valuable space.

    Keith.

    ADAIR TRACKS, WITHOUT 'EM YOUR JUST SPINNING YOUR WHEELS
    REMEMBER KIDS, THE FIRST "A" in AATV STANDS FOR AMPHIBIOUS

  3. #13
    Thanks for the input. I have the main hoops tacked in. Had planned on setting the rear hoop cross at just above the engine height to allow mounting of a basket. The front bar is to be installed above the front dash about 1.5" I was going to do some trial and error on the middle bar as I can understand your point. Additionally I could go a bit smaller on the vertical bars (going to the frame) as they are primarily in tension and compression. I usually do a lot of sitting and thinking and looking before deciding. Again thanks for the pointers.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Oconee County, SC
    Posts
    823
    Quote Originally Posted by 2gnospam View Post
    Will do. Just made side skirt angles Wednesday and started bending main roll hoop/cage bars. Should be back on it Sunday. Also bought tire tubes and am going to use tubes and low air pressure (~2 psi). I hope tube/tires do not rotate on the rim. Will also sandblast and paint the stock rims.
    Tires have been know to occasionally spin on the rims. Most times you won't even notice it. On brand new tires, I would not use tubes. Only on older dry rotted tires that just don't hold air, then use tubes. But if you really want to use tubes, you will have to glue the tire beads to the rim. I use Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant. You can find that stuff at just about any auto parts store. http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...et_Sealant.htm

  5. #15
    Was wondering the best way to run very low air pressure and not spin the tires. Sealant sounds like a good alternative. Does anyone have a good or bad opinion of using sheet metal screws (in conjunction with tubes).

    Thanks

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Brooklyn, WI
    Posts
    885
    The installation of the center support bar on my Max was the turning point in it's existence. It makes it a completely different machine. Passengers are more comfortable, it drives better with a more rigid feel, body sag is eliminated, tire/track clearance is gained. Heck I even use it to sit my butt on when I go to get out. And mine only ties the cage into the front seat. You will have to let us know how it drives when completed. I always wonder how flex plays into handling and performance.

    Keith.

    ADAIR TRACKS, WITHOUT 'EM YOUR JUST SPINNING YOUR WHEELS
    REMEMBER KIDS, THE FIRST "A" in AATV STANDS FOR AMPHIBIOUS

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Brooklyn, WI
    Posts
    885
    Quote Originally Posted by 2gnospam View Post
    Was wondering the best way to run very low air pressure and not spin the tires.

    Thanks
    Bead locks



    These will weld to Hustler or Max K lock wheels.

    Keith.

    ADAIR TRACKS, WITHOUT 'EM YOUR JUST SPINNING YOUR WHEELS
    REMEMBER KIDS, THE FIRST "A" in AATV STANDS FOR AMPHIBIOUS

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    1,470
    In my max 4 conversion I supported the rear of the roll cage with 2 up rights to the frame and the lower tub from a cross bar welded to the seat frame.
    Acta non verba

  9. #19
    Interesting How To article on Miller Welding Site concerning welding of 4130:

    Miller - Best Practices for TIG Welding of 4130 Chrome-Moly Tubing In General Motorsports and Aerospace Applications

  10. #20
    What would be the steel thickness on the DIY bead lock plates? Now see you used 3/16". Anyone already have a CAD file?

    Quote Originally Posted by kghills View Post
    Bead locks



    These will weld to Hustler or Max K lock wheels.

    Keith.
    Last edited by 2gnospam; 09-13-2012 at 10:59 AM.

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