Kawasaki FD620D running poorly. Help?!

  1. Welcome to 6x6 World.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. Looking forward to seeing you in the forums and talking about AATVs!
+ Reply to Thread
Page 10 of 12 FirstFirst ... 8 9 10 11 12 LastLast
Results 91 to 100 of 114

Thread: Kawasaki FD620D running poorly. Help?!

  1. #91
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Thornton, CO
    Posts
    646
    Did you snip all of the narrow portion of that anti-fire solenoid off? I had problems that sounded like yours that went away when the anti-fire solenoid went away. What is the condition of your fuel line? If it is coming apart inside it will plug up your main jet (just like an anti-fire solenoid ).

    When it is dead is there fuel in the bowl? You can take the lid off and peek. If so, I suspect something is plugging the main jet. If not, then float, float valve, fuel line, pump, filter, tank...

    GEEZ. I read your post but I didn't READ your post... You already suspect that there isn't fuel in the bowl.
    A float that doesn't float will run the engine really rich and/or spill fuel out the vent hole in the top of the carburetor.
    Check the float valve. There is a picture in the service manual. Usually they wear out and stop stopping fuel so act just like a float that doesn't float.
    So, float that sticks up or valve that sticks closed or plugged fuel line.

    I think you are on the right track.

    Not seeing fuel dump when you twist the throttle could be a plugged immersion tube.
    - or a too low float level.

    I keep editing - I hope you are getting these.
    Last edited by JohnF; 11-02-2012 at 06:00 PM.

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Reidsville, NC
    Posts
    226
    I see what you're saying.

    I want to take some pictures when I get home of the carb before installing. I've dropped, emptied and cleaned the tank. Replaced the fuel line, fuel filter and fuel pump. Getting good fuel flow up to the carb. What would the symptoms be if the float were getting stuck at the top?

    I need a better understanding of the flow of fuel through the carb. It enters from the fuel line and has to pass the float needle immediately? If the float were to stick at the top would it prevent all fuel from entering?

    I am going to go back a few pages and read your explanation of the carb again. I read, re-read and re-re-read when you first posted but a lot of it was spanish to me. I am soaking this information in though please keep it coming!




    EDIT: Disregard this post
    Last edited by gimmegreens336; 11-02-2012 at 06:38 PM.

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Reidsville, NC
    Posts
    226
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnF View Post
    If the float was stuck closed then it wouldn't run at all. Yours is running at low idle.
    If the float didn't open enough to allow a fuel rate enough for high idle then it would probably reach high idle and then surge. Unless it was really bad, then it would die.
    The float level affects the "accelerator pump" function of the carburetor. This functions is accomplished via an immersion tube (huh, the parts blowup in the manual above calls it an Emarsion Tube???) that sits in a reservoir. When call for, the fuel is sucked out of this reservoir. As the level drops it un-ports air holes in the tube effectively increasing air. What is trying to happen here is when you open the throttle the air flow can accelerate faster than the fuel which is heavier so the carb meters a bunch more fuel at this change over. The important part (sigh) is that the reservoir level is the same as the float level. If the level is too low, then the air/fuel gets too lean and the engine dies. If this is the case, you should be able to creep slowly to high idle.

    As a side note, the main jet is in the bottom of the float bowl. If the float is set too low the engine will run fine on the level but die when the jet un-ports. Probably pointed downhill or port side high. That's really a function of the float bowl geometry in the design but a too low float adjustment screws that up.

    I'm still thinking bypass holes are plugged. Second guess is fuel pump or float valve not allowing enough fuel flow through.

    And for draining I usually unplug the fuel pump and let the engine run it mostly dry.
    Here we go, save the back peddling.

    Edit: Is the carb the same for all these Conquests with FD620D? If so, what is the model? I wanna see where all the fuel travels through it... Or you could just explain it all :-D

    Re-Edit: What do you mean, when the main jet un-ports?

    Thanks!

    Last edited by gimmegreens336; 11-02-2012 at 06:37 PM.

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Reidsville, NC
    Posts
    226
    I hope you're not typing while I'm typing this.

    A perfect explanation of the flow is in the service manual. I read this explanation a million times when I first started this thread but my understanding is much better now. I understand everything that needs to be un-obstructed. (I think.. lol)

    Let me clean this one more time and re-install her and see what happens.

    Will check back.


  5. #95
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Thornton, CO
    Posts
    646
    Yeah, all FD620Ds and FD661Ds have the same carburetor. Uh, model... That's actually in my other post, hold on... wait, I'll link the file here too <going advanced>:

    FD620D-FD661D jetting.jpg

    Go and download the service manual.
    It's a terrible picture but page 2-8 describes how the carburetor works.

    The main jet is at the bottom of the fuel bowl and is supposed to always be under the fuel level in the bowl. what I meant by un-porting here was when the jet moves above the fuel level and air start moving through it.

    [EDIT] Oh, too late, I was typing...

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Reidsville, NC
    Posts
    226
    Haha! I see that!

    I have def not done this... not sure I understand either. Does this have anything to do with my issues?


  7. #97
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Thornton, CO
    Posts
    646
    Nope, you're not to this yet. Once it's running well.

    Stick with your instinct that you aren't getting enough fuel in the bowl. Might be that all of your parts are okay but you have a really bad adjusted float.
    Review 2-13.

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Reidsville, NC
    Posts
    226
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnF View Post
    Nope, you're not to this yet. Once it's running well.
    10 4!


  9. #99
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Thornton, CO
    Posts
    646
    The picture there isn't very good. If you've never seen a float and needle before then that thing is't helping you.

    Hold yours upside down like in the picture and take a pic and post it. What I want to see is if you have the tab between the valve and its little keeper wire. If you have it on top of the wire then you effectively have your fuel shut off.

  10. #100
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Reidsville, NC
    Posts
    226
    I'm headed home shortly. I will have a pic by tomorrow.



    There is a little wire, maybe the "keeper wire" that "clips" (fits in a groove) on the needle. The wire has a little rectangle that slides into the tab on the float assembly. The needle is connected to a tab on the float assembly by the little wire thing.

    I adjusted the tab according to the directions above.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts