Kawasaki FD620D running poorly. Help?!

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Thread: Kawasaki FD620D running poorly. Help?!

  1. #11
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    Gimme, I'm watching this one since that was the most extreme case of plug damage I've seen yet. I have to expect it's too hot a plug or detonation. If there's a lot of carbon buildup in the cylinder it can cause this. Get it running on a new plug and use Seafoam, or just use some clean ATF poured into the carb. (not one big cup at once, just pour a thin stream till it starts bogging down, let it clear up and repeat. Expect a "Little" smoke. Thank Brian (Racerone3) if that works for ya.
    Attex 295 Wild Wolf: My Runner
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  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Reidsville, NC
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    Did some basic disassembly last night. Removed all the fuel line from the gas tank to the carb, removed the gas tank, pump and filter. Also removed the air filter, housing, and carburetor. The following pics are what I've found so far. I probably don't need to explain my newness to all of this - I'm learning as I go, mostly thanks to you guys.

    This is one end of the fuel line is ate up. The section between the fuel filter and fuel pump had some cracks in it, we replaced that at Busco. Otherwise, no other visible issues to the fuel line. Replacing it anyway just to rule out a disintegrated fuel line.



    Hard to see here, but there was a decent amount of thin liquid on the black metal plate. I didn't smell like gas per-say, it didn't have much of a smell at all. I guess it could be gas/oil mixture? Or water? I don't know..



    Seems like a lot of oil around the lip/rim.



    Forgot about this pic, you can see the clear-ish liquid pooled/bubbled up.



    Some stuff I was just taking pictures of just in case they help. I really don't know lol



    Alright, this is the worst thing so far. I can't remember what the service manual called this part, it was a long name.. It's the piece you unplug (unscrew) from the carb before removal. The wire on the thingamabobber was very brittle and snapped while we were removing it. I obviously need to replace this part. I followed the wire and it seems to be tied to everything. If someone with experience with this part would help that would be awesome! Furthermore, if the wire was that brittle and didn't maintain a good connection this may be my problem? Would be nice if the problem were identified.



    Dirty!



    Couple randoms of the carb.




    Ok, and right in the dead center of this picture are two threaded holes where it looks like something should be screwed into or mounted or something. Any guesses on what is missing? Or is this all good?





    That's it for now folks. Any help with the broken thingamabobber would be awesome.

    Would like to take apart the carb too, any tips or tricks would be cool.

    I haven't forgotten about all the advice prior to this post. I will follow up on everything advised!

    Thanks!
    Last edited by gimmegreens336; 10-20-2012 at 11:38 AM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    Garner, NC
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    Im not a super pro on the "Kaws" but the broken thingermickjigger, may as well be the fuel solenoid that mounts to the carb, if your carb has one. It is connected to a 12v supply that comes on when the key is on. If this wire had a short, it could very well open and then close the fuel solenoid, stopping the flow of fuel to your carb causing the engine to hesitate or just cut off.

    The oil in the carb is from the blow off tube from the engine ( the black curved hose that connects to the carb. If the engine is too full of oil, or is turned on its side or at a crazy angle, oil will come out of the tube and into the carb. i had this problem with my first briggs 16hp. I resolved it by putting a homemade oil catch can on the tube from the engine.

    The water and oil mixture!!!! dont know where the water came from but if water is in your carb, maybe you should look at your carb gasket that mounts the carb to the intake manifold. the water probably came in from god knows where, but definitely isn't good for your engine.

    Its good that you are making progress, I hope this info aids you.
    HUSTLEMANIAC and a HONORARY MEMBER of the
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  4. #14
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    Aug 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmints View Post
    may as well be the fuel solenoid that mounts to the carb
    After more research and talking to folks this is exactly what it is. When there is power to it (when you turn your key) the needle valve pops in, allowing fuel to flow. If it had a short it could pop in and out, unrestricting and restricting the flow of fuel into the carb. If the fuel solenoid was in fact doing that, this could be the reason the machine was randomly turning off.

    On a side note: the bigger fella that was with me at Busco was the one turning the wrench when the wire broke off the end. He is notoriously ogre-ish and un-gentle when it comes to everything, big fella don't know his own strength. I still speculate that he may have actually broken it. lol - I do believe it must have been brittle to have fallen apart like it did though...

    Also, does a bad fuel solenoid have the ability to foul a plug to the extent that my plug was fouled? Either way, I'm going to followup on all the recommendations here. I want her running top!

  5. #15
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    Reidsville, NC
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    What is up with bypassing the fuel solenoid? Capping it or whatever? What happens if it doesn't shut when I turn the ignition switch off? I've read some mention of a kit for bypassing it, or some DIY for bypassing. No details or pictures that I could find.

    Edit: People are recommending to just grind or snip off the top half of that pin. They say the engine may "diesel"? or whatever - aka: keep running when you turn her off. They also say it could flood something or another. They recommend installing an inline fuel shutoff valve if you are going to bypass the solenoid. Does this sound correct? That's a $5 fix, whereas a new solenoid will be $77. If someone agrees this is ok I will do it.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by gimmegreens336; 10-17-2012 at 07:36 PM.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by gimmegreens336 View Post
    What is up with bypassing the fuel solenoid? Capping it or whatever? What happens if it doesn't shut when I turn the ignition switch off? I've read some mention of a kit for bypassing it, or some DIY for bypassing. No details or pictures that I could find.

    Edit: People are recommending to just grind or snip off the top half of that pin. They say the engine may "diesel"? or whatever - aka: keep running when you turn her off. They also say it could flood something or another. They recommend installing an inline fuel shutoff valve if you are going to bypass the solenoid. Does this sound correct? That's a $5 fix, whereas a new solenoid will be $77. If someone agrees this is ok I will do it.

    Thanks!
    Even though I'll rig up something on my machine, I would not reccommend do the same to some else's, especially when its dealling with fuel. Maybe you can look on ebay, or even www.partstree.com for the new fuel solenoid. Have you tried fixing the wire ( soldering the ends if it needs it ,,, and cleaning the solenoid and hitting it with compressed air). Im willing to bet that you can fix your current "f-s", and not spend a dime, well with the exception of some carb cleaner.
    HUSTLEMANIAC and a HONORARY MEMBER of the
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  7. #17
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    What are you doing up at 0200 besides helping me diagnose my busted machine?? lol

    I agree with you, I'm gonna reach out to someone to solder the wire back into the solenoid and test it out.



    I just bought a can of sea foam, new fuel line and liquid carb cleaner. I am fixing to start some research on the rubber I'll need to replace to reassemble the carb. I'm excited to get it disassembled and cleaned up this evening.

    I could potentially have her patched back together for a shake-down run this evening if I can locate the correct plugs locally. My specific engine is the FD620D-DS12. Fixing to do some research on the best plugs for this motor.

    Once I get it patched back together I can start some of the things recommended.

    Thanks guys!
    Last edited by gimmegreens336; 10-18-2012 at 12:20 PM.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by gimmegreens336 View Post
    What are you doing up at 0200 besides helping me diagnose my busted machine?? lol
    Yeah, about that!!!!!!! I dont sleep much when I'm on vacation.

    I hope all works out ok for you and you get to make that shake down. Speaking of shake down,,,, you ever been to the "strip"??
    HUSTLEMANIAC and a HONORARY MEMBER of the
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmints View Post
    you ever been to the "strip"??
    I don't know what the "strip" is - I mean, I've been to the "strip" at beaches and some bigger cities, just slang for where all the bars and clubs and action are I guess. What strip you referring to?


    So here are a few shots from the action last night. I bought a can of liquid carb cleaner, comes with a basket you jsut drop your metal into and let it sit for approx 20 mins then rinse with water. It really cleaned the crap out of the metal parts!

    A little residue at the bottom of the bowl but doesn't seem too bad.


    Dirty parts


    Clean parts!


    This goes to Dan67 - you were right on the money with plugs. I have a FD620D motor, which would recommend a particular set of plugs generally. However, I have a specific FD620D-DS12 which calls for the BMR4A style plug, I went with the NGK brand NGK 5728. Look at the difference! The plugs that were installed when I got the machine were way too long.


    This is the broken solenoid. My neighbor told me to bring it to him and he'll hook me up.


    I was curious about the filter. Is a fuel filter a fuel filter? The one installed is a fine wire mesh filter, the one given to me looks like a paper filter? (The new filter is closer, the old filter is in the back) The new filter is roughly the same size, slightly smaller. Would it be ok to run the other type of filter?


    My throttle cable has always stuck pretty bad, I sprayed some WD40 and it fixed it. Question is, what is best to clean all this crap off with? A degreasing chemical or soap and water or what?




    I think that's it for now folks.

    Thanks for keeping up!
    Last edited by gimmegreens336; 10-20-2012 at 11:41 AM.

  10. #20
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    Strip, in my words,, meant "Dragstrip" or "Race Track"

    As for the Carb Cleaner, I hope that you removed all rubber from the carb, because the concentrated cleaner will kill the rubber.

    A fine wire brush, or soft wire brush, or a tooth brush will be needed to clean the black exhaust buildup inside the carb. Everything should be bright and clean when your finish. Q-tips won't hurt either just make sure that there is no cotton strings left behind. It all looks good thou buddy.

    Good info on the spark plugs from Dan. After all of this, you should be rocking and rolling.

    I normally use Purple Power or any degreaser with the assistance of a pressure washer, and relube everything that needs it. I run my engine while hose it all down and monitor the engine. If the engine surges or acts funny while hosing it down, then more than likely you sprayed into the carb somehow, or you have a faulty gasket somewhere. This happened to me before and I ended up replacing the intake to carb gasket, along with head gaskets. I immediately noticed a spike in my 23hp Kohler's performance.

    The fuel filter should work also, so you shouldn't run into any issues there.

    I also hit the inside of the throttle cable with compressed air, then WD40 or similar lubricant, and follow with more compressed air to ensure that the lubricant gets deep down inside the cable.

    Hopefully, your neighbor can solder the wire back onto the fuel solenoid. With all these improvements, you should be running at 100% in no time.

    Good luck, buddy, can't wait til it's all back together!!!
    HUSTLEMANIAC and a HONORARY MEMBER of the
    BIGFOOT ALUMNI

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